F650GS 2002

[Mickly]

So … an over excited Ebay moment has seen me as the owner of a non starting 2002 BMW F650GS … I know, I know

Any how apparently the guy only had it for 5 weeks, running fine then jet washed it & it refused to start after that.

I obviously take this with a pinch of salt as there was also other stuff wrong: LH indicator wire adrift, horn wire adrift, and a rubbish repair to the timing sensor wires.

I’ve repaired stuff, especially the sensor wires, replaced the battery as despite it showing a full charge it’s cranking voltage dropped to 4.8V, which span it over but wouldn’t even cough.

I’ve now got it to a point where it will start, idle nicely for about 15 seconds before cutting out.

I now think the fuel supply might be at fault, so I took the fuel pump out of the tank …

And found this attached to the pump.

This inside the tank

Managed to fish this out

Any ideas what and how ?

[MikeHorton]

2 hours ago, Mickly said:

So … an over excited Ebay moment has seen me as the owner of a non starting 2002 BMW F650GS … I know, I know

Any how apparently the guy only had it for 5 weeks, running fine then jet washed it & it refused to start after that.

I obviously take this with a pinch of salt as there was also other stuff wrong: LH indicator wire adrift, horn wire adrift, and a rubbish repair to the timing sensor wires.

I’ve repaired stuff, especially the sensor wires, replaced the battery as despite it showing a full charge it’s cranking voltage dropped to 4.8V, which span it over but wouldn’t even cough.

I’ve now got it to a point where it will start, idle nicely for about 15 seconds before cutting out.

I now think the fuel supply might be at fault, so I took the fuel pump out of the tank …

And found this attached to the pump.

This inside the tank

Managed to fish this out

Any ideas what and how ?

Crikey looks like years if neglect I loved the 650 is it the rotax engined one or the later bigger engine version? Will be great when it's all sorted I'm sure. 1st pic looks like a bit of fusilli pasta !

[Mickly]

18 minutes ago, MikeHorton said:

Crikey looks like years if neglect I loved the 650 is it the rotax engined one or the later bigger engine version? Will be great when it's all sorted I'm sure. 1st pic looks like a bit of fusilli pasta !

Yeah, it’s a single spark 650, although fuel injected not carbed.

Lots of signs of years of neglect eg remote ABS switch as the wirings fallen off the OE switch also heated grip switch has no wires attached at all missing fixing on fork brace, cracked plastics, air filter housing held in with wood screws etc etc

[MikeHorton]

44 minutes ago, Mickly said:

Yeah, it’s a single spark 650, although fuel injected not carbed.

Lots of signs of years of neglect eg remote ABS switch as the wirings fallen off the OE switch also heated grip switch has no wires attached at all missing fixing on fork brace, cracked plastics, air filter housing held in with wood screws etc etc

I look forward to seeing rhe progress I'm sure it will be worth the effort 

[Mickly]

Update:

Various dodgy wiring repairs attended to

eg: Igniter switch wires, Before, after peeling back sticky insulation tape

After, wires cut back, new pieces soldered in, shrink wrapped & bound together with self amalgamating tape:

Removed the tank to clean out the yellow bits of plastic, an absolute git of a job as it’s under the seat so the rear subframe had to come off & one of the fixings obviously missed the hardening process when it was made so had to be drilled & nutsert used.

With the tank back in place with fresh fuel I was able to start it but it would only run for about 10 seconds then cut out … having checked all the electrical connections as best I could, I reckoned it must be fuel related..
My suspicion turned to the  solid state fuel filter/regulator  this part is considered a consumable & should be changed every 20K miles, they are £70 new but managed to bag one for £17 off eBay, don’t know how many miles the replacement has done, it came off a working bike with 50K miles but obviously isn’t the original as it came with Jubilee clips on all the pipes rather than the single use crimped BMW ones.

Typically the fixing holding it on was also made of cheese so a large bracket had to be removed for decent access.

The new (to me) item was then fitted and after much swearing it was in place.

Lots of engine turning overness to get the fuel pumped through & hey presto a running bike - absolutely stoked !!

No wonder it didn’t run for long, I sawed apart the old bit & look at the state of the old filter.

Think it’s supposed to be bright orange.

 

That is for now folks, gonna service it & get it Mot’d next.

[MikeHorton]

22 minutes ago, Mickly said:

Update:

Various dodgy wiring repairs attended to

eg: Igniter switch wires, Before, after peeling back sticky insulation tape

After, wires cut back, new pieces soldered in, shrink wrapped & bound together with self amalgamating tape:

Removed the tank to clean out the yellow bits of plastic, an absolute git of a job as it’s under the seat so the rear subframe had to come off & one of the fixings obviously missed the hardening process when it was made so had to be drilled & nutsert used.

With the tank back in place with fresh fuel I was able to start it but it would only run for about 10 seconds then cut out … having checked all the electrical connections as best I could, I reckoned it must be fuel related..
My suspicion turned to the  solid state fuel filter/regulator  this part is considered a consumable & should be changed every 20K miles, they are £70 new but managed to bag one for £17 off eBay, don’t know how many miles the replacement has done, it came off a working bike with 50K miles but obviously isn’t the original as it came with Jubilee clips on all the pipes rather than the single use crimped BMW ones.

Typically the fixing holding it on was also made of cheese so a large bracket had to be removed for decent access.

The new (to me) item was then fitted and after much swearing it was in place.

Lots of engine turning overness to get the fuel pumped through & hey presto a running bike - absolutely stoked !!

No wonder it didn’t run for long, I sawed apart the old bit & look at the state of the old filter.

Think it’s supposed to be bright orange.

 

That is for now folks, gonna service it & get it Mot’d next.

Glad you got it going again should be a worthy investment 

[Mickly]

15 minutes ago, MikeHorton said:

Glad you got it going again should be a worthy investment 

The idea is to get it sorted rather than pretty & then go trail riding, maybe a bit of easy green laning when the weathers a bit iffy

[Ronnie]

Fuel filter/ regulator at £70 every 20k miles ?  Jesus, the buggers know how to make money.  If it was me, after fitting a new one, I would look into fitting a cheaper, and easier to fit, pre-filter.

If at all possible ....

[Mickly]

9 hours ago, Ronnie said:

Fuel filter/ regulator at £70 every 20k miles ?  Jesus, the buggers know how to make money.  If it was me, after fitting a new one, I would look into fitting a cheaper, and easier to fit, pre-filter.

If at all possible ....

There are some options detailed on a couple of online forums that show a way of fitting a separate filter & regulator, I am however a little wary of believing some of the stuff you read on the web.

[Yorky]

33 minutes ago, Mickly said:

 I am however a little wary of believing some of the stuff you read on the web.

And a LOT more wary of some of the "solutions" people put on YouTube

[Mickly]

Small update.

A lot of the fairing fixing points were fcuk’d, so I thought I’d do something about it:

 

This is supposed to look like

This

So I made a thing

That fits like this

I tried the plastic welding with melted zip ties trick and it seemed solid enough 

But since then, I decided to reinforce it with epoxy glue.

I also reinforced the broken fixing holes with washers - glued in with epoxy glueThere were also some big cracks that I wanted to fix before they got any worse.

 

Next up an engine flush using this, before adding new oil.

 

 

Edited April 15, 2023 by Mickly

[Mickly]

Latest update, by some absolute miracle it has passed its MoT ….

But on the way home all the clocks stopped working with the odo and clock just flickering, so back to the drawing board 

 

[Mickly]

So, I spent sometime stripping the binnacle down.
As I started taking apart the instrument pack I could hear a rattling & this fell out:

It’s a 16v 47uF Capacitor, the one that the forums have said causes the type of issue Zippy has got - The Penny is just to give a sense of scale

On further investigation I reckon it came from here on the PCB

It looks like someone’s already had a go and done a rubbish job of it, I’m also worried about screwing up the PCB.
Advice is to set it in silicone once it’s fixed as this prevents the vibes from breaking it again.

Gonna try and find someone who is good at this kind of thing to fix it.

[Mickly]

I did an online enquiry about getting the PCB sorted, 1st spoke to them and they assured me that they do lots of bike stuff, especially Aprillia’s apparently.

Here’s the response, what do you think,I initial price seems ok ( with some caveats:

 

confirm a quotation of £100.00 for a repair and full refurbishment. Typically, 10-15 working days turnaround minimum and dependent upon parts.

 

All prices quoted exclude delivery and VAT will apply where applicable.

 

The work quoted includes full testing of the PCB/unit down to component level.  Where possible we will test on a ‘test rig’. However, ultimately it will be down to being fully tested on the intended unit by yourself.

 

Software issues do exist and sometimes although we can repair your item, we cannot always resolve any issues regarding the software due to manufacturers protecting this! This only happens in a very small percentage of PCB repairs but feel this is something we must make our customers aware of!

 

We have a very high success rate of our repair work. The likelihood of failures is low however we do need to make you aware of this.

 

Any work beyond testing outside of our control may incur additional charges if repeat or additional site work is required.

 

 Now as all I want is the Capacitor sorted I have mean while given it to a local PC repair shop to quote for just replacing the capacitor.

 

 

 

[Stu]

I think its a bit excessive for just reparing that! 

 

As you say its a known problem and soldering it back on will solve it two blobs and its fixed  

[Grumpy Old Git]

Capacitor 0.25p

 

Time to clean soldering points, solder in the capacitor = 15mins (so, at £80 per hour) = £20

 

 

 

[keith1200rs]

Best to use the correct capacitor- the one that fell off is for through-hole mounting not surface mount. If I was closer I would happily do it for free - I still have all the tools and lots of parts from when I did such work.

[Mickly]

4 hours ago, keith1200rs said:

Best to use the correct capacitor- the one that fell off is for through-hole mounting not surface mount. If I was closer I would happily do it for free - I still have all the tools and lots of parts from when I did such work.

The ‘experts’ on the F650 forum suggest a through hole capacitor is a better solution as it’s less likely to fail, however it should be supported with Silicone to stop it vibrating off, something the previous bodger omitted.

I have no way of knowing if this is good advice or not.

[keith1200rs]

Silicone sealant probably allows too much movement. There is proper glue for sticking components onto PCBs, I probably have some somewhere. It will probably have set solid by now.

[billy sugger]

A hot glue gun would work for securing the capacitor after soldering 

[keith1200rs]

Or a bit of araldite

[Mickly]

2 hours ago, keith1200rs said:

Or a bit of araldite

I’ve got some of that

[Fozzie]

I'd be nervous about those pads lifting if someone has already had a go, but it is possible to repair them even if they lift, just needs a very steady hand. That quote isn't very clear in what they provide either, do they replace any of the components on the board if they aren't to spec? 

[Mickly]

P.C. Repair man said no way as the contacts were damaged, TV repair man said yep but it’s £35, I think he spotted the desperation in my voice, I’ve left it with him.

[Mickly]

Update, TV repair man came up trumps and fixed it, he recommended not using any kind of adhesive as if it goes again I’d be b*lloxd.

Got it all back together & it’s running as sweet as an old neglected bike can do.

After a bit I noticed that the revs were rising on full right lock, so reckoned I might have compromised the throttle cable routing while it was all apart, so undid it all again sorted the throttle cable and hey presto no issues….. but you just know it’s not happy ever after.

I took it out for a spin to pick up a close-ish tag a 50 mile round trip, (the furthest I’ve been on it) and after a good run it stalled at an island after a swift dual carriageway run, it started straight away but continued to stall when revs dropped to idle, also it would occasionally cough on acceleration & the rev counter would spin up before settling down again, this was a git in stop start traffic.

Took it apart yet again and found that the throttle wasn’t closing fully as there was about a 3mm gap between the mechanism & the throttle stop, much gnashing of teeth & rude words ensued as I yet again rerouted the cable until the throttle opened fully & snapped shut properly, put it all back together yet again & took it out for a ride this morning for a couple of hours & now all is relatively good again.