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Everything posted by Stu
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as has already been said above brake fluid needs changing every 2 years it will go darker with age/deteriation of your hoses and seals i would change it and check your pads to see how low they are theres a reson your fluid is low possible your pads are worn right down and the pistons are right out so more fluid in the lines also while your at it do the fronts
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its a starter relay!! not sure where they are on your bike though!! you free tomorrow morning about 9 ish ? i could pop over seen as though your only round the corner i will only have a spar hour or two though
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sounds like theres a bad earth to me check all earth connections to the horn and the headlight also worth checking all the wiring to the headlight!! also check wiring on the switch gear too
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judging by your avatar this is a newish R6?? if its still in warrenty get it to the dealers
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it depends on the bike where they actually plug in but yes they go on the intakes side one on each inlet the idea is to get the gauges reading the same there is a specific way to adjust them up though ie you balance carbs 1&2 together then 3-4 then 2-3 some are different its bike dependent you have to warm the bike up fully before balancing too
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battery wont affect it once the bike is started it will run off the charging system check the charging system if i was you you may not be getting a good charge when at idle
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not as simple as that im afraid!! a decent tuner will tell you a "dyno jet stage 1" is a waste of time as every bike is different and different exhausts and air filters breath differently you may need bigger or smaller jets then what come with the kit!! talk to a tuner for his advice have you got a race can on now? what about a air filter?
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have you had your discs checked to see if they are warped ? it could be a warped disc pushing the pistons back in to the calipers and needing more lever movement to push them back out! a simple check is to go for a ride and apply the brake at around 40mph and feel for the leaver pulsing
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thats going to cost you a fair amount to do all that!! what brake pads have you got in there ? cheap ones can make the brakes feel spongy and are crap!! get some HH sintered ones in and some braided lines! if the seals arent leaking then they are ok no harm in pulling them out and giving the calipers a good clean up though
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Clutch cable adjustment? - Update, possibly release shaft!
Stu replied to Mk5Centurion's topic in Pitstop
depends how the release mechanism works to be honest theres a few different types out there!! read your manual dont stare at it sit down with tthe manual and read how the mechenism works and how to adjust the mechenism and the clutch cable -
Mine's blue! i think mine is too!
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dont forget the block and head too!! safest bet is to do a full engine flush and use a coolant for alloy engines i wouldnt bother paying for a named one they all do the same check if halfords are still doing the 3 for 2
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you can get it done anytime if it fails the old mot still stands till the date of expiry and thats from an mot tester! An mot is only good for the time of test you can pull it out the mot station and something can go and make it un roadworthy! You can mot one month before due date and get 13 months, check your mot it tells you the earliest date you can take it in
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what sort of service was done if they cleaned the carbs they should have balanced them back up as they could have knocked them out!! doesnt matter which way round you do it to be honest you wont need another run after a balance
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a dyno run wont hurt to see how its running it will give you more of an idea i recon your carbs could do with a clean and balance has the bike been sat for a while? could be bad fuel too
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what year is the bike and have you recently put a race can on it ?
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adjust first if still no joy i would go for warped clutch plates or worn clutch basket
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WHY?? i dont know i dont supply them
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sounds like you dont have a soft link for your chain a lot of suppliers are sending a solid link instead the soft link has like a pilot hole in the end where your chain tool will push in to and stretch it
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not ok to remove ok to torque up though
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as above could be a stuck gear position sensor if it has one! Also check the clutch switch too
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did you get new glow plugs for it ? some diesels pre heating systems work in conjunction with the coolant temparature too so a new coolant sensor maybe in order
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sounds like the reg/rec is buggered to me too dan over charging and boiling the battery dry!!
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oil or grease not WD40!! WD40 will chase any grease or oil away and dry out in a matter of weeks!!!
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basicly yes a local engineering shop will have loads of scrap in their skip outside