bonio

I had the same head-heart dilemma when I bought my TV; the head said get a Multistrada. I'm taking the bike into dealer tomorrow for 5 elecrical faults. Not sure how long it will be in, as there's always difficulty getting parts from Italy. To be fair, the bike will be fine to ride once they've repaired the defunct indicator, so I'm fairly sure it will be OK in time for the trip to Germany in September. Would be nice to have the cruise control back before then, but no regrets. Its such an amazing bike, I forgive it everything. The dealer is only an hour away, so it's not a big issue for me, but even so I've found a place 10 miles away where the guy specialises in Italian bikes. He did the last service for me. Top bloke.

Looks amazing!

You mean, we've paid to had them installed.

Must join 'Just stop oil'.

You have two options: 1. you can find a way of getting a bike to the test site without riding it. You will need to be insured to ride the bike. While it is technically possible to do this, I've never worked out how you'd get insurance to ride a bike you're not yet qualified to ride. 2. you can phone a motorbike training company and book an instructor to accompany to the test. With the instructor, you are allowed to ride the bigger bike to the test site, and ride the back back again to the school after the test. You will need to book enough time to cover the journey there and back and faffing around at the test centre before and after the test. The test school will be able to advise you how much time to allow. This is what nearly everyone does.

Should be easy to see if the sprocket has worn, cos the teeth wear on one side more than the other and look a bit hooked.

Got some euros when I was in Greece last week. Got travel insurance for the whole year, so that's still in place. Just euro breakdown still to get.

The 3rd party insurers own 100% of the liability. The OP's insurers and 4th dimension both need to be told to butt out - it's none of their business.

Don't let your insurers anywhere near the bike; as said, all they will do is cream off funds into their bank account, and if Churchill refuse to pay (which they probably will), you will end up owing them money. This is known insurance scam. Don't sign anything. Make Churchill 100% responsible for putting the bike back on the road. That's what they're meant to do. If they order work to be done, or storage, or a replacement bike, they will be responsible for the cost.

Never had a CG myself but they're meant to be a great bike, and completely bomb proof. All the best with the CBT. At 44 you're still 5 years younger than me when I did mine.

Welcome in!

We should meet up for a drink and you can tell me your battle stories.

Beautiful! Hope the end of the chaos is coming into sight.

What a complete pita. I hope it all gets sorted without too much hassle.

My garage has a handy upstairs, where I built this. Gloves and buffs and the like go in the drawers.

Ask the dealer. Or like Stu says check in the manual. It's usually something like keep it under 3 or 4000 rpm for the first 600 miles then gradually increase over the next 400. Use all the gears and dont stay at one fixed rpm for too long. After 1000 miles ride it as you like.

Jack's got a Multistrada???

I test rode the AT and yes found it a bit dull. So now I'll read the manual so if I ever get another chance I'll know what to do.

Welcome in. Looking forward to reading about your progress with the bike.

Where are you now young Hoggs? You up Norwich?

I was looking at the price label; thought it was going to say £1 5s.

That's like finding a puppy in a shopping bag.... looking for its forever home.

Yep, you either lower the seat (might get you 1 or 2cm max) or the suspension (can get more - how much depends on the bike), or both. Lowering the suspension involves buying some longer dog bones (the bit that joins the rear suspension to the frame) and fitting them. If you're lowering by a couple of cm or so, that's about all you'll need worry about. Any more than that and you might have to lower the forks to drop the front a similar amount, and see that the side and centre stands don't end up too tall for the new height. Lowering the seat involves rebuilding the seat with thinner padding. Fewer complications this way (except saddle soreness). A few people do it themselves, but most send the seat off to a specialist - which is pricier.

Too right. I parked my car for a weekend at Yeovil station. I knew it would be safe, as it was worthless. And when I got back on Sunday evening, there it was. Only someone had nicked the dashboard and left me with just the wires hanging out of the fascia. Insurance wrote the car off and sent me a cheque for £150 - no excess in those days.

Welcome in and congratulations on get onto 2 wheels. I started at 49, so you're five years ahead of me already. What bike are you riding?