fastbob

Even my ER5 has them . You would have to be going some to scrape them on the deck though.

I've got a Richa one - piece rain suit that used to be completely waterproof. I've had it about five years and nothing appears to have perished or worn out but last time I wore it there was some leakage. Does anybody know of a re - waterproofing product that actually works ? I tried Nikwax Tech wash years ago and I wasn't impressed.

If you need any advice on CGs feel free to PM me , I've re built 8 of them and I'd be more than happy to share anything I have learned.

I see what you mean and I agree . I just didn't picture the wheel turning , makes sense.

I bought 3 AA Road Atlases for a pound each and cut 2 of them up and stuck all the pieces on the wall with blutac . Now I can gaze at a great big map of Scotland without moving a muscle.

You could get someone to turn the pages for you .

i dont want to take the whole bike apart to find it, just after the location. I have looked online on your behalf for almost an hour and I cannot find out where it is located. If you cannot even be arsed to undo a few bolts or even look at your own bike then I certainly cannot be arsed to offer you any further assistance. This is normally a friendly CHAT FORUM but you appear to think that you can just post one question and practically demand an answer. I've shown you what it looks like and if you can't find that on a basic 125 motorbike then I doubt that you would be able to find your own arse with both hands . Have a nice day.

I think you have burned out the centrifugal clutch and it is now slipping hence the higher revs and lower speeds . In other words, transmission problems as previously suggested. A replacement shouldn't be too hard to find or too expensive. I would buy a Chinese cheapy because I have always been quite satisfied with the quality of various bike parts that I have bought. By the way, it would be helpful if you stated what moped you have . I'm guessing it's actually a scooter you're talking about.

Is it a reservoir or is it an expansion tank ? Will this question ever be resolved ?

Maybe the overflow is blocked, doesn't look too serious , understandable in this weather .

This is what it looks like. Take the tank , side panels and the seat off and you cannot fail to see it .

Surely it goes where the old one goes ? You have presumably tested the old one to determine that it is detective.

Remove all the plates and check for warps by laying each one on a very flat surface and trying to insert a feeler gauge beneath it .Do this to both the friction and steel plates Check the manual for acceptable limits . If there's any distortion replace the clutch .

If you want to go faster stop eating chips !

Yes , I'm afraid I sold a few during my time at M&P . I don't know what the science is supposed to be but I reckon it's bollocks . Does it protect you from the effects of chemtrails ?

mine it's the mechanical version. I will try the easy fix, starting with the cable... the bike has like 12k miles, i think the cable is done, i'll have a look on ebay. There is a sign like that in the way to work, it usually says that i'm doing over 30 when the speedo is at ~35 . Have a look at the cable before you have a look on eBay, if the inner cable is in two pieces It's broken .

Or find a village with a sign that tells you your speed and says thank you . They only go up to 99 though. ( Speedy23, remember the one in Barford before they opened the bypass ? )

If it happens to be a cable driven mechanical speedo then I suspect that the cable may be broken but the two halves are still grinding together and slipping so that you get an erratic reading . If it's electronic then try cleaning all the connections before spending any money. I'm not sure what drives electronic speedos so maybe some kind of sensor is faulty.

In warm weather you often don't need the choke to start bike engines. If you close the choke then it's running too rich to fire up in warm weather, so just fire it up with the choke open. I don't understand why you want to close the choke once the engine is warm - that will cause it to run too rich which is why it won't idle. Once an engine is warm you leave the choke fully open. The problem is I'm not sure you're referring to open and closed the right way round in the first place - hence the query about the captions on the photos. Open - means that the choke flap is fully open so airflow is not restricted. Closed - means the flap sits across the airflow so restricting it. Less air mean the air-fuel mix is made richer for cold starts. Extremely well put sir , saved me the trouble . I thought my bike was knackered once and turned back after only 5 miles of what was supposed to be a day out . I'd only gone and left the choke half on hadn't I .

A wild guess based on my recent experience. The vacuum hose to your fuel tap is kinked and just about to close up altogether. The heat probably makes it worse . Easy to replace .

I agree , the exact opposite to what's written on the photos, closed for starting, open for running. That's why its called a choke . The other captions are correct. Too much fuel ? Maybe its not enough air . If you put too much oil on a foam filter it can restrict air flow and act like a second choke . So if you have been running it on choke that may explain the black plugs . I wouldn't bother with choke on a day like this .

I'm a bit confused too . I would definitely say that it would be harder to locate neutral if the clutch was dragging but I don't quite see why it would be easier with the bike on the centre stand. The position of the swinging arm shouldn't have any effect on the tightness of the chain otherwise chains would get stretched and output shaft bearings would get ripped out when the bike went over bumps. I reckon the key is to eliminate all trace of clutch drag . Maybe,despite your best efforts, there's still air in the system . Do you have a factory manual that gives service limits for the clutch push rod length ? Perhaps that is worn . Another cause of clutch drag is warped plates . To check these you'll need a perfectly flat surface and a feeler gauge . Also look for signs of scorching and discoloration caused by possible lack of oil . If the back end is jacked up then maybe this has reduced the oil level . Anyway these are just a few ideas to play with and I hope you get it sorted quickly.

So how did it go ? Where did you go once you got there ? Any pics ?

I've been online digging out alternative takes on Rolling Stones tracks which I think are way better than the released versions . Current favourites are Dance Little Sister live at El Morcambo featuring Mick Taylor and an out take of Hang Fire that's got loads more balls than the album version.

Lidle don't sell fags