fastbob

I have looked online on your behalf for almost an hour and I cannot find out where it is located. If you cannot even be arsed to undo a few bolts or even look at your own bike then I certainly cannot be arsed to offer you any further assistance. This is normally a friendly CHAT FORUM but you appear to think that you can just post one question and practically demand an answer. I've shown you what it looks like and if you can't find that on a basic 125 motorbike then I doubt that you would be able to find your own arse with both hands . Have a nice day. Now you're starting to understand where I'm coming from...... Oh yes , I do get it especially in this rather odd case . Funnily enough I couldn't find the answer on Google myself . The thing is though, I actually don't mind answering what seem to be stupid questions from people who appear to be too lazy to find out for themselves . I enjoy the challenge or else I wouldn't bother at all . Sometimes google can provide too much information and this only confuses the enquirer even further . So yes , I do get where you're coming from but I don't really see the need to discourage people from asking unless there is a hint of chicanery .

Excellent, Glenridding looks like an interesting place to wander around, not like Castlerigg where you feel stuck up a hill with nothing to do or see . Thanks.

There are 2 at sykeside campsite T Total for eight years now but I'm sure they do good food , thanks anyway.

Can anyone suggest the most enjoyable and scenic route through the Lake District. I'm travelling south to north with Kendall being my starting point ,I'm actually going to be on my way to Scotland but I don't mind deviating a bit to take in the best bits . I might camp overnight but I've already been to Castlerigg campsite above Keswick so similar alternatives would be most welcome.

You could try this but don't blame me it there's a catch , I didn't try to download myself .https://isgthermalsystems.co.uk/books/07230a/suzuki-gz-125-hs-manual.pdf

Go back two replies, I've already told you

Errrrr ....How does that help ? It wasn't meant to.............JFGI. Some people want it on a plate. JFGI .. Just f*****g google it , ok , but why do you have to be so unpleasant about it ? The OP didn't ask you personally so why respond at all ?

All I'm getting is the word IMAGE. Go to attachments , add files , select images , wait to load and submit . Easier than most forums

Easiest forum to join and use that I've come across . Can you get a close up of all these carb pipes so I can compare them to mine and see which ones you can lose ? I'm guessing from the pics that the original vacuum tap is not on the bike . On ERs its actually on the frame not the tank so I reckon that the pipe that links the carbs is blanking off the vacuum line . Anyway,let's have a look and take it from there . Can you describe these poor running characteristics as well please ? Cheers . PS I already had this photo, what you see is a vacuum pipe from the right carb coming over to the tap and on the left carb a bung in the centre of the picture that simply blanks it off . I'm guessing that on your bike , rather than buy another bung someone has just attached the pipe to the other carb . These are the points , by the way, that you fit guages to when you sync the carbs . To be honest, I don't think this is a great idea to link the carbs . I reckon two bungs would be better.

" Most of the people on it were middle aged,not what i expected.,thought there would be more hoody wearing oiks. ".......... The oiks can leap over fences to get away when they are on coke and adrenalin. Either that or they can't be arsed to turn up.

That's certainly one method of starter motor engagement but not the only one . I had his system on my FT500 Ascot and it was , in fact , the Achilles heel of the bike . A more common and cheaper method is a simple freewheel clutch as previously described. Being a Chinese bike I expect the simple cheaper option would have been used.

Errr.... By electricity? Errrrr ....How does that help ?

I cant see any of these pictures mate, except the last one , why not just put them straight on the forum .( attachments , add files , select from your photos, wait for all to load , submit . ) from what I can see it looks good. Here's mine .

Have a look at the cable before you have a look on eBay, if the inner cable is in two pieces It's broken . Fixed it with a new cable. The old one was rounded(squared usually) at the ends, so the cable wasn't able to transfer the rotation to the dial properly. Oh good , glad you sorted it .

..who are ranked 3rd in the World! Population of Belgium: 11million Population of Uk: 65 million Must be doing something wrong At the risk of appearing to be interested, apparently they lost deliberately for some reason

Right then , out on my pushbike this morning and what should I see parked outside the pub but a shiny new Lexmoto ZSB . After asking the owner if it was ok I got down on my hands and knees and BINGO ! There it was , the regulator / rectifier ! Right there in plain sight roughly where I expected it to be . So where is it then ? We'll I'm not telling you . Why ? , because right from the beginning I have suspected that there is something fishy about this thread . The OPs total reluctance to take a look at his own bike plus the absence of any details in his profile simply does not add up . I'm happy to be proved wrong but until the OP can convince me that he actually owns a Lexmoto I think its best left there .

In general terms the starter motor will have a clutch mechanism a bit like the freewheel on a bicycle. Try putting the bike in gear ( not running ) and push it backwards. You should hear the starter motor making a whirring or growling noise as it rotates . Now push the bike forward and the sound should be gone . This will indicate whether the starter clutch is disengaging ok . If you struggle to push the bike or the wheel skids , take the spark plug out and sit on it then push with your legs . At least this will help eliminate the starter motor clutch as the source of the rattle.

Regarding the other pipes , some pics would be helpful. As for the fan , mine definitely works but it has never come on in 10000 miles nor has the temperature light so I wouldn't be too worried.

The pipes going into the float bowls via a little filter are the carb heating system and can be got rid of no problem. You may need to use some left over pipe to blank off the tube on the top right of the rad . Best way is to link it to the similar pipe near the filler but not the one right next to the cap that goes to the expansion tank / reservoir. If you leave the filter in line it should still keep the coolant clean .

Thanks so far, there's a lot of different product out there but most are rather expensive and I'm a bit sceptical as to how well they work . Shame because the suit is in good nick otherwise and I was hoping to get a bit more life out of it . Maybe I'll soak it in WD40 , it it doesn't keep out the rain at least it might repel the Scottish midges!

Or use an engineers table . BTW its all sorted now . A thin wire spring clip type thing had come adrift .

Glad you sorted it . Would it not be wise to buy a new one ? How did you make the clutch window BTW?

Here's a close up from the same link , it looks a bit different from the drawing but definitely supposed to be there.

I STAND CORRECTED! It's meant to be there ! Have a look at part 8 .https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xjr1200-1996-4pu3-england-264pu-300e1_model39180/partslist/0016.html#.WzZm9-JFw0N

WTF ? Why indeed , how or why that has got in there I have no idea . I can only assume it is the sorry aftermath of some horrible bodge or perhaps somebody was using it as an improvised tool and left it in there .