Gerontious

I don't understand why this is a problem. this is aimed squarely at people who give the law the middle finger. people don't 'accidentally' add exhausts that say "not for road use" its a decision they make knowing full well they are breaking the law. of all the groups that will be most upset.. these are the types I have the least concern about. They know what they are doing.. the rest of us, who aren't bothered about changing to a stupidly loud exhaust. couldn't care less. Im just trying to imagine the anguish this will cause on the piston heads forum... as well as most H-D groups. the eagle is about to stop screaming.. and not before time.

An award for keeping generations of dentists in Porsches and private planes. excellent.

If you're not happy then get rid.. you wont be the first and you definitely wont be the last to make an (in retrospect) wrong decision on a new (first big) bike. I think actually most people do.. though few will admit this to themselves. I know I did way back when.. my first bike after the test turned out to be an unreliable pile of crap. But live and learn. You need to feel comfortable and happy when first starting out. top heavy bikes always take a lot of getting used to. Its a complaint I read about a lot on bikes from one manufacturer in particular and often cited as the reason for an eventual swap. I know someone with a Shiver.. he had three big complaints about the bike. Its tank range. its top heaviness made worse by its height and its silly service costs.. plus the inevitable wait for bits to arrive from italy.

simply put.. I treat slip roads as though they are the same as the inside lane. And if there is a vehicle on it. move over to overtake. if i cant move over to overtake.. then i either slow down or.. if its ok. accellerate so i am in front of the vehicle joining. But.. 99/100 this isnt a situation I allow to develop. when approaching a slip road Im nearly always moved over. btw.. the highway code is very careful about language.. it says "Should give priority" it does not say "Must" and 99/100 when the highway code says "should" a lot of drivers simply ignore (or forget) that. If the highway code said "Must" then slip roads would be of the continental design.. very short. And often seen with cars at a full stop waiting to join.

Congratulations... New bike.. New hat.

The arrow is the direction of rotation of the wheel once its on the bike and the bike is moving forward. Thats really all you need to know.

http://bfy.tw/NyeZ click on your website of choice and choose a 3" plate. Bear in mind its an MOT fail and any police car with ANPR or any roadside ANPR will recognise it as illegal and could stop you, or send an NIP to your home. A copper with a grudge could make you abandon the bike and walk home.

I'm sure Ive read somewhere that some modern BMW bikes do this on the accessory connection.

Simple as that. I reckon the vast majority of "problems" with sump plugs.. and they're not exactly rare: stripped threads, even cracked sumps is due to turning them the wrong way. evidence of this is to be read in this very thread with mention of reverse threads.

If you live inside then nothing will happen unless or until you leave and re-enter the zone, ride past a camera that reads your number plate and charges you. whatever they decide the charge will be for your bike. MAG would be better served overturning the charge on Bikes in London. if they can manage to do that then there is the precedent and its highly likely all other regions would follow suit. But.. i doubt it will happen as MAG doesnt have the kind of clout they like to think they have. Authorities will simply turn round and say.. get these polluters off the road. get a more modern 'cleaner' vehicle and so.. avoid the charge.

The only reason.. really, for buying armoured Denim is to look somewhat normal off the bike. If its to be 'cool' as in lower temp then you are far better off buying textiles that are either fully vented or have a large mesh component in addition to the armour. with high abrasion resistant areas at the impact points. I personally would consider denim to be end of season.. so early late spring and early autumn. With fully vented/mesh being far more appropriate for the warmest days. particularly if you feel the heat.

from the FAQ

Its probably safe to say that people do this all the time. they buy a bike, realise its not really for them and trade it in. As PCP has gained in popularity it seems certain to me that many bikes bought in this way will have been changed like this. My local dealership is full of very very new bikes with very low miles on them and I would suggest not many of them were bought outright. most on either normal finance or PCP. See what the dealer has to say.

Im assuming this is for your 650. Your owners manual will say DOT 4. it will not add any further caveats to that. Similarly, if you put car engine oil into your bike then you will have ignored completely the advice your owners manual has given. They give you the complete specification for the oil your bike requires. Which for the vast majority of bikes, the MOST important part. aside from the usual 10W-40. is the JASO rating. This tells you that the oil is suitable for a motorcycle with a wet (oil lubricated) clutch. And is common for all modern motorcycle with unit engines. For the 650 the spec isnt fussy... you can use any JASO. MA, MA1 or MA2. If you have oil sitting about and it does not have a JASO rating on it.. Don't use it. Because it is not recommended for your bike and can too easily go horribly wrong.

She's just checking her new ring tone loaded proper (like) ">

One of the best upgrades you can make to any motorcycle tyre is to have them fitted by someone who knows what they are doing. Assuming you're not fully equipped and have the experience to DIY.

No it doesn't. Ive had PR3 and 4 tyres and would have no hesitation in recommending them to anyone as quite possibly the very best tyres you can buy for year round riding. And especially where some motorway riding is concerned. Sure footed in the dry and more importantly in the wet. Each and every generation has been a marked improvement on the previous. Only go for the 2 if you cannot justify (or find) 3's 4's or 5's. They appear to get great reviews all over, I was recommended them in two separate garages. I was just looking at the road 5s, possibly could be the answer? They are all good.. even the 2's. But.. bear in mind they are at least 6-7yrs old now and there is a reason they were replaced. There was room for improvement and so, year by year they have been. The difference between 2 and 3 was small.. just an improvement in wet grip. The big change came with the 4. improved grip and lifespan. and a much 'sportier' profile. Though as with most 'so called' sport touring tyres they are definitely aimed at riders who spend more time riding to the twisties than in the twisties. in other words they're aimed at real world riders in the UK climate who spend most of their time on the bike doing the normal commute and general riding and possibly a much longer ride/trip abroad once a year. I cannot comment on the new 5's. but as they are the latest.. if you can justify the cost to yourself then go for them.

No it doesn't. Ive had PR3 and 4 tyres and would have no hesitation in recommending them to anyone as quite possibly the very best tyres you can buy for year round riding. And especially where some motorway riding is concerned. Sure footed in the dry and more importantly in the wet. Each and every generation has been a marked improvement on the previous. Only go for the 2 if you cannot justify (or find) 3's 4's or 5's.

Why?, the v5 clearly states Bicycle as the vehicle class, maybe the DVLA, should re-classify the description That has nothing to do with my point.

If you get a fine + points for this.. then you deserve it.

If you want to go all the way with the screen.. maximum protection and adjustability. then you are probably looking at the Madstad. and as thats an american screen and bracket its expensive. but, you will only hear good things about it from the yanks. its a fairly common solution for buffeting on my africa twin and is mentioned a lot by americans for a lot of other bikes. but it definitely is expensive. £300+ other ideas are the Puig. Givi and MRA. The biggest problem with choosing a screen is every rider is different and if you couple that with any other adjustments they have made to their bikes a solution for them might easily make matters worse for you. So.. it can come down to trial and error. BTW.. BMWDave hasn't been on the forum for a couple of years now.. but might respond if you send him a private message or email.

The Belt is just by itself a very good reason. It makes for a very smooth worry free ride. None of the snatchiness you can get from a chain if you get the gears wrong. And once its fitted there is no worry about its tension. No maintenance at all in fact just the occasional physical examination checking for damage/wear. BMW recommend its changed at 24,000 miles or 38,000km. But they last much longer than that.. just keep an eye on it and when you notice a 'tooth' missing then its time to order a new belt. https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/contitech-7004352.html

Well done.. and kudos for the IXIL.

Saying nothing sometimes says the most.