billy sugger

Well, not only have you learnt a bit about stripping/fixing an engine you could probably make a tidy profit if you choose to sell it on

The pitch would be a bit waterlogged

No it wasn't cheap, Stu. On the face of it it actually looked really bright when setting it up against my garage wall, but in reality, (to me anyway), on the dark roads home I could see even less of the tarmac than under halogen so I ditched it and went for HID. it probably didn't help having separate lenses for high and dipped beam, so the reflector shape could have been wrong, but the HID unit is designed for my light set-up so that's what I use now, and I have to admit it's brilliant at night

I tried a LED light but couldn't get on with it, as it didn't light up the back roads very well, and I missed the beam of light you got with conventional bulbs

When I had the rear tyre blow out on the way home from Narborough it was on an unlit country road at night so the engine was left running whilst waiting for recovery. Only the headlight was on yet it drained the battery on tickover. The recovery guy turned off the ignition, not sure why, then realised he needed the engine running but it would not start due to a flat battery. My headlight is a HID unit, so probably consumes a lot of juice. I already have a smart battery maintainer wired to the battery so it's just a case of plug it in and forget it. @Gerontious the 600 was never meant to be my commuter bike, but the 500 engine bust a conrod and I'm in the middle of repairing it

Below is a pic of my Cbf600sa8 wiring diagram. I am looking to fit an on/off switch in the dipped beam circuit to disable the light being on from the moment the key is turned to start the bike, (it momentarily goes off as the starter button is pressed. My commute to work is only 3.9miles and I believe the light being on is detrimental to charging the battery. I have a voltage indicator fitted, and this is showing a reading of 11.6 volt. The bike starts first time and runs fine, but I think the trip is too short to replace what's used and I don't want to bugger up the battery as its less than six months old. So to all you electrical wizards out there, where should I break into the wiring?

Looking for things to cook in an air fryer. Treated myself to a 4ltr jobby from Tower, and it's brilliant. I'm now finding out you can cook more in it than mentioned in the manual

I like Eccles cakes

Cut a hole in the bottom so dolly can slide under

STU likes to keep his bike clean, including the rubber

You won't get much kip with a chain under the mattress

There will be a chain reaction if it all goes wrong

Ha Ha, Stu, I gave it a damn good pumping, but it did not appear to make a difference. I haven't noticed any steering issues so I guess it was OK or has settled down once back together

Yes mate, it's a new stantion so maybe the hole layout at the bottom is not exactly the same as the old one and is giving a false reading. Anyway I have put the correct amount in so have gone by that

Fork was completely dismantled and cleaned, it had been leaking quite badly so had lost some but did not measure what came out. All I can say is I used almost a litre bottle when I last changed them in 2020, then the bike sat unused for a year due to not being able to afford insurance. Now it's done I've lost the sag I had after front end braking. After diving the forks would rebound, only to drop maybe 2", now they don't

Flushed the cooling system and refilled with Hondas' own antifreeze, 45ltrs for £30. Also fitted new front fork, £98 for a single 41mm stantion from a company called JMP, along with new OEM Honda fork seals, £58 Inc postage for two sets of seal and dust cap. Not sure which is the culprit for the leaking seal, but take a gander at these. The dots are damage from a nylon hammer from the last change, but the seal I have no idea what caused the damage

Your bike should have 3 10amp fuses, that control indicators, tail light, side lights and instrument panel lights but unsure if they control the rev counter or odometer. My instruments went crazy, I turned the ignition on one morning and had lost the odometer, trip 1 and 2and the digital clock. The odo/trip was just 3 bars, and the clock had moved from the RH display to the odometer side, though everything else was fine. I cured the issue, (I hope) by buying a new instrument panel on eBay (brand new, at a third of the cost of a Honda made one, but could not see a difference between the two) from Italy

Yes if HISS was not working you would not be able to start the bike, as it would not read the keys transponder chip

Hiss indication can be turned on or off via the button that controls the digital clock, on my cbf its the right hand button, push it down for about 3 seconds, it should flash once and will then flash as normal with ignition off. As for your lights have you checked the fuses

Hi knowledgeable people, I have a fork oil issue and I'm stumped as to which is correct. My Haynes manual states fork oil required as 457cc,+/-2.5cc, or a oil level check with spring removed and leg fully compressed at 149mm. My issue, I put in 71/2 60ml syringes full (7x6 =42) in the fork, but the level is showing 105mm, so higher up than stated level, so I'm confused. PS oil is Motul 10W medium

I thought I had done that, with a custom 250 in 1987. The ex wanted us and both boys to be able To go out together so the bike went to fund buying a car. Sold the bike to a fellow biker just down the road from me, for his cousin. While I owned it I kept it in really good condition, and it started first time, every time no matter the weather, the chain still looked brand new and all the chrome would blind you on a sunny day. Within a fortnight the chrome lost its lustre, and the bloke began complaining it would not start or run properly, probably because he kept messing with it

I'm in the middle of rebuilding the 500. I want to return the 600 to weekend/long rides, as the 500 is better for commuter/day to day stuff. With a wage coming in I can now afford to have one decent run on a weekend, a brimmed tank of E5 just cost me a bit under £38, but at least I do not have to make a choice between a ride out or eating. The other side to this is while I'm working on the bike I'm not thinking of my current health concerns, and to be honest I actually prefer the twin over the four cylinder, and top speed wise there is not much difference though it is way more fun on back roads. I'm not going to feel guilty if I suddenly decide a trip to skeggy, or even Matlock is warrented as @Ian Frog says, you can't take it with you, and health is always more important than money

Had my scan today. Got told the radioactive solution attaches itself to working cells and highlights them.i asked how are they going to check my brain then

You may find it easier/more options available if you can lower your foot pegs and put the lever back to standard/normal position