husoi

Note that when [mention]Mississippi Bullfrog[/mention] said "your fuses" he actually means the bikes ones

Are the indicators LED? Is the new CDI for LED bulbs? Have you check the wiring diagram to make sure the indicators are connected properly? Have you made a cuppa before doing the work? EDIT: If the indicators don't work it means is not working perfectly isn't

Had 3 chain bikes and currently ST1300 with drive shaft. Other than every 6 months have a quick check on oil level and replace it every 2 years there us nothing much to do with it. No longer chain lubricating, adjusting the slack or ride to the garage to have the set replaced. If a drive shaft goes wrong then it is expensive but how often that happen?

I found that most hardware and diy places can have the screws you need. Usually a fraction of the price you would pay on a parts shop.

I don't regret my Pan European 08

Not music but...

It will depend on many things, I'll try to list the most influential. Quality of tyre Speed road condition (new or older tarmac) Overall weight tyre pressure Running temperature Riding style (sporty or calm) These are in no particular order and will dictate how long your tyres will last. Softer tyres will last as much as you're saying while harder ones will last around 5 to 7k miles. You will notice the rear tyre to last half the mileage of the front, this because rear tyres are subject to higher temperature, have all the traction and most of the weight.

I really hope that frame is earthed What kind of electrical engineer do you think I am?

Hi welcome For most bikes the amount of fork oil will depend on the size of the forks and the gap between the top of the oil and the top of the fork. For heavier bikes it seems to be a 50 to 60mm gap. being yours a lot lighter I would assume the gap doesn't need to be so big. Have you look at the inside and see if there is a mark for the level? It should sit around 50 to 20mm (guessing here). Being a Xi-ping bike I don't know if the fork is adjustable so the amount of oil you put in can have a working margin as you can fine tune it afterwards. The worst can happen is that you will end up with a stiffer or softer suspension and then you will need to add or remove oil. Whatever you do just make sure you measure the gap every time you make a change.

I think [mention]Stu[/mention] that last one will get the prize for worst joke...

The law has a few nuances depending on each country. But generally EU law, ambiguous as all of them, dictates that you can't wear fingerless gloves but if you decide to go without no gloves then that is not illegal. All gear from head to toe must have a CE (not to be mistaken with Chinese Export - CE) certification and be under EN specifications. Fingerless gloves don't have CE or EN certification so they are illegal. What you can do is, get a pair of summer gloves and cut the tip of the fingers (the glove not your ones ) They will then still have the CE tag from the original but because there is no mention of the finger in th label they can't be considered illegal. Isn't the EU fabulous?

Of course It's symmetrical so I only need to do 1 side and the other (right side) is identical. I'll be using the same principle for the diagonal from the front of trailer to the coupling.

Yeah, a C road

Powder coating shouldn't be too expensive for those

That road is better than british motorways...

In an indirect way this was for the bike Almost all materials are recycled. Base and stand come from an old bed frame Connection wires, cable and plug were around the garage. Front panel from 9mm plywood bit Rear from some chipwood red bits were the mattress support plywood bits. Isn't showing the fixing for the lights box to the metal stand, but it was taken from the leftover bits resulting from cutting the roof box for the trailer Only had to buy the bulbs at £1 each and some more soldering wire because I was running out. Not bad for a really bright lighting. Now I can see what I'm doing

Play attention that finger-less gloves for motorbikes is illegal since 2015 (or thereabout) according to EU legislation. With Brexit I have no idea what will happen but won't be surprised if they will keep the law unchanged

After spending most of the morning in the garage working on the trailer, I spent most of the afternoon and evening in the seats. First did the rear seat, because is smaller and it should be faster to do, also, because I sit on the front so, better make sure I have experience before doing the front one It is quite straightforward, removed the series of staples and the cover. For that only need a flat screwdriver and a pair of small pliers. Then marked the middle of the seat and the contour of the pad. Made the grid for easy cutting to 2cm deep and using my Japanese cutter (from leather cover) I removed the necessary foam. The gel comes with a thin layer of polyester that takes forever to remove. You can't use too much force or it will break so patient is the key. Used some floor adhesive spray to hold the memory foam in place while fixing the cover, as in the video I used a polyester film for waterproofing, fortunately the foam was so well wrapped in that film that I still have more than half left For some odd reason my expensive £5 stapler stop working so now I need to wait for a new one to arrive, go figure... This is how it looks now with a few staples missing, I don't think the additional ones will make a big difference in the way it looks. But I'm quite pleased with the final result. Now I need to get the new stapler and finish this one and then do the front seat. All in all, it takes no more than a couple hours with hand tools, the front one I'll be using the rotary tool with the cutting disk, it will be faster and a far better finish.

Maybe I'll start a business with the gel pads https://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=72996

Will it raise the seat height at all??. If it does won't be more than a couple millimetres, the memory foam is the only addition to the existing but it will be compressed by the cover so it will be minimal. Just measured the compressed memory foam and goes from 20mm to 2.75mm This by hand between 2 metal sheet 1mm thick

But surely setting fire to things is half the fun of welding? I never feel the job is done unless a fire extinguisher is involved. When we moved into our new place which has a tandem garage I was going to paint the floor but it's ended up half carpeted and half concrete. Which actually works quite well for me. I hoover the carpet and brush the concrete fairly regularly to keep stray nails and screws at bay. I agree, the other half of fun is setting things on fire with the grinder

Pretty much yes Instead of buying the ones you strap over the seat. Edit: And because my old fat arse deserves it

Will it raise the seat height at all??. If it does won't be more than a couple millimetres, the memory foam is the only addition to the existing but it will be compressed by the cover so it will be minimal.

So you can spend 1 1/2hr watching a crap movie knowing from the start that the blonde is the murderer but you can't be bothered reading my post. Now I'm truly hurt....

You can always try one of these