husoi

Happy b'day bud

As promised. Template for towbar. By making a template I avoid the risk of making the wrong part and have weld joints in the wrong place. Used a Ø 21.5m plastic duct. cut to size and with simulation of weld locations. Red tape indicates midpoint. The only bit not done is the plate for the front bolt next to the pillion foot rest. This will be done directly with the SS plate. It's just a straight plate with a hole at the end and welded to the square tube. This will be paused for now because I want to make sure the height from towbar to ground will match the trailer hitch so the trailer frame will be as horizontal as possible to minimise the pull effort.

True, 2 years ago at St. Mary's loch cafe there was one of them and he could get the speed over 2 miles away the f*&ing B$%£$%rd

I would suggest a more direct approach...

I hated Bridgestones . It's worth googling " BT014 Dangerous " At the end it always varies depending on riding style. Had the Battlax BT's for several years and never had a problem with it.

I'll be posting pictures as I go along. The frame will be rectangular with 2 bars converging to the hitch. Decided for 10" wheel with suspension system. Towingandtrailers.com have all inclusive kits that look very interesting and not too expensive.

I have PR4 on my ST1300 and can't really complain. made 6k on the rear tyre, mostly either motorway/dual carriageway. most of if temperatures above 30c (45c max) and fully loaded with 2 people and luggage for 2 weeks. Ok the centre bit was flat by the time I got home but that was due to the load. I got another one just before MOT because it would fail otherwise. I struggle to choose between Michelin and Bridgestone recommended specs but for now I'm staying with the French brand. They perform extremely well both dry and wet and I'm sure that in normal circumstances I would make 9k without a problem.

So, get ready for several updates while I progres this one so far work done is: [list=]Welding box together [list=]partial sanding of box base. The base will be partially sanded. According to www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk expert I only need to sand the areas where the cloth is going to placed and the grooves I can just leave them empty instead of trying to force the carbon fibre around all the contours. This saves material and won't risk disturbing the weave of the cloth reducing it's mechanical strenght. [list=]Order steel for both frame and towbar [list=]Make list of necessary trailer parts. This is extensive and I won't be posting unless somebody will ask (politely ) The estimated total cost is sitting at £1,500 and is not expected to go over set limit of £1,800 £85 metal £625 composites £350 trailer parts £70 IVA £200 tools (partial value of all tools used as these are not exclusive to this project) £20 ancillaries (likely to go up to max £100)

That's why I prefer dual compound tyres. It reduces the middle wear but it doesn't takes it away. If you don't feel right with it just get a new rear one, nothing says that you will have to replace both. my front tyre always last longer than the rear one

The problem with that tyre is running too long straight roads. Usually due to motorway riding or slow enough not to need leaning. It is still legal but it will be uncomfortable to ride because of the edge when you try to lean, is like getting over a step, you will have the trouble to get to the top of the edge (putting the edge on the tarmac) and will feel like it's unbalanced once you lean over that edge.

Once you learn how to keep your fingers out of the way things start to get better Was nothing that a few plasters didn't solve Let's hope the trailer goes better

a fiver says isn't Monopoly money Unless there was a power surge and network earthing failed the capacitor will last as long as the motor, those things are pretty much indestructible. On the other hand the thermostat is the weakest link and normally a unbranded one costs as much as £15. One other thing that could be causing it would be the light switch or the bulb support, but there was no mention that the light isn't working

a fiver says isn't

Sounds like the thermostat is faulty. Have you check if it only trips when thermostat goes on or all the time? Try bypassing it and see if it still does it.

Didn't know my wife had a sister. You'd not believe the junk we carry around with us most of which is now in the loft. That said now and again she has a brilliant idea and the aforesaid junk gets dragged out and made use of. But in the meantime ......... My missus instead of us carrying stuff to recycle centre she sells it on facecrap's marketplace Comes with free collection at your door

Er no you only have 90kgs storage as max 150kgs As a thought have you weighed the kerbside Weight of your bike just in case it only allows a lower capacity than150kgs ie two thirds of bikes kerbweight ? I stand corrected 90kg The bike's curb weight is 312kg so the trailer can go to the max of 150kg

So today or tomorrow I'll have the steel delivered Now that the tank cover is done it's time to keep going with this one Placing the order for the carbon fibre, resin and all the bits for it. I estimate the weight of the trailer to be around 60kg leaving 110kg for storage. I think it will be just enough for all the stuff the missus will want to carry Photos of progress to follow

Where to start... Fortunately I can work from home. Reduced my commuting time from 1hr to 20 seconds Sprayed my bike, Made a leather tank cover, Painted the stairs walls Making new steps and risers in proper ash wood Making a pull behind trailer MOT'ed the bike back in March Sprayed weedkiller on the front garden and part of the back one tied up the garage several times made a table saw with a tile cutter Destroyed a Lidl rotary tool and had to get a new one fitted a set of LED's on the bike (rear and indicators) At the end, the important bit is to keep your mind super busy so you don't have time to be bored

This concludes this thread After many hours, first time working with leather at this level and making up most of the materials. I can say that I'm pretty proud of the achievement Total cost: Leather £70 (full hide) Tools and ancillaries £40 (hooks, leather crafting tools, masking tape and thread) Can't tell the number of total hours I worked in this project but I'm sure it was a lot If anybody would ask me to do another one? Don't be silly!! After a long consideration I decided to use a 3 lines fixing, it allows to maintain the hook steady and makes less stress on the leather. The hooks have been made out of some plastic profile I have in the garage. The final fitting. There is only one last touch to do and that is the symbol I've been planning. Yes it is a bit rugged, it does looks handcraft and that is the idea. I can proudly say that there is no other like it The tank bag fixings are robust enough and the fill opening is pretty much where it should be. Tomorrow I'll post the very last photo of it once I make the symbol. Thank you all who supported me and put up with my silliness

Then while the wheel is off and stearing is apart better double check the bearings...

The suspension on my old ninja I don't think was done throughout its whole life as what came out was just black treacle looking sludge That's project number 26 since lockdown

So I have an overdue change then... Had the bike for 6 years and never changed it

A man, after a strong argument with his wife where insults flew all over, decided that he had enough and took some poison to end his life At his death bed he asked for his lawyer to write his will. The lawyer come and he said. All my possessions will go to my wife with a condition. That she will must be married within 3 months or she won't get anything. The lawyer wrote down the instructions but couldn't help to be surprised. Why such strange condition? Because I want that at least one to regret that I've died...

Make a mix of washing up liquid and tea tree oil soak the inner bits of the helmet for 15min Get a soft brush, I would use nail brush you can get in any supermarket, give it a good brush and rinse thoroughly. Ideally leave it to dry in the sun. For a few day it will smell of tea tree oil but you can be sure it would have killed all nasty stuff you had there. The smell can be either bacteria as above or fungus both as result of sweat and being left damp. When a helmet is left to dry at room temperature in the bag or just put away you are creating an ideal environment for colony for either bacteria or fungus. If this is a frequent issue you have I would advice you to get a couple balaclavas and wash them frequently.

You would think that I've been very quiet This was the latest fitting. Had to redo one of the seams on both sides because it was too loose. Also the bottom fixing for the tank bag is not properly aligned and will need removed and placed in place. To hide the holes of the stitches I'm making the holder larger. It's ready to cut the edges and then fixing the hooks for the sides. Hope I can have it finish by tomorrow evening.