husoi

Things that affect consumption are dirty air filter worn or "coated" spark plugs or wrong gap Dirty oil filter Dirty fuel filter wrong octane level On older bikes you can also have a timing belt telling you that is about to crack, an older timing belt will become looser and it will result in incorrect timings Adding to this what [mention]Bianco2564[/mention] said

If there are no cracks in the key (sometimes they will occur if you try to straighten it by hand) you can try heating the key and slowly unbend it.

I'll have 2, at 50k each is a bargain

One thing you failed to mention is which tyres you have. Softer tyres will need less miles than harder compounds. Most importantly than wearing the tyres a bit before going to wet surfaces is warming the tyres before hitting the wet. depending on outside temperature a 5 miles ride at 60mph should be enough for your tyres to come to working temperature.

Or you can go to an optician because if your glasses are that damaged likely is that you are due a new appointment

A bike isn't?

I was surprised with the strength of that little thing. It takes it's time for a larger volume but it is strong. Once I get the gauge I'll post a pic. I can tell that is far stronger than a good vacuum cleaner on strength but obviously far less flow.

Congrats riding fish

Definitely not Now just need to get a ball bearing for the moving side. That's me online placing the order for the steel for frame and towing bar

Well... Wasn't really directly to the bike and wasn't today. But I don't think this deserves it's own forum. Made a vacuum pump from an old pump I had getting spider web and I was just killing some time First disassembled the pump, removed the top of the compressor bit (the 2 long screws), removed the hose and pressure gauge. Using the super glue and baking soda process I've added a small copper pipe. Then attached the transparent hose, the one used for bleeding the brakes. Put it all together again. And Voilá a vacuum pump under £15 Just need to get a vacuum gauge for £3 on ebay to complete the setup. Pump from Home bargains or some cheap place alike attachment of copper pipe to pump inlet with super glue and baking soda another view of the intake pipe Pump back together and ready for action.

Latest acquisition. Went on a site visit and found this beauty abandoned and sad Ideal for my swivel . Axle bolt for the swivel

Happy birthday wise man

Thanks [mention]Ian Frog[/mention] I found out what they call "core material" these are sheets of very light material. around 35kg/m3, that will do the work

If you do lube your chain while the bike it's parked give more time for the oil to penetrate the rings and have it properly done. When I had the VFR I would always do it at arrival instead of before leaving. Works even better with dry silicone lube

My first one was the historic Sinclair ZX81

Slow but steady progress. Cover is welded and sanded, ready for the carbon fibre layers. The base is in progress. You will notice the top rim have been cut off (there is a bit of it showing on cover picture)) This is because I'm extending the base by 200mm to increase storage and to accommodate the wheel arches I'm still considering if I'll be filling the grooves with some kind of lightweight foam because I'm not sure if the carbon fibre will be that flexible. I'm designing the steel frame and the tow bar. The frame will be built in 50mm square tube with normal steel to be painted while the tow bar is stainless steel. Opted for a normal tow ball with traditional coupling and will be inserting a swivel so when the bike leans the coupling doesn't get stressed. This is still being designed because no way in hell I'm paying £200 for a swivel This is likely to be 2 short 50mm square tube coupled with a M20 screw and Nyloc nut with washer. probably the screw will be welded on the trailer side and a ball bearing on the nut side. But I'll update as I progress.

I would like to know how to ride the same way as this guy plays the guitar .

You could. on previous bike I thought pressure was good enough and tyres lasted 3k miles instead of usual 7k. Lesson learnt, always check the pressure to make the most of your tyres. Not to mention the safety side of it

Have you used a multimeter to check continuity on the bulbs? You can also use it to check that you have 12V reaching the bulbs. If not would be a blown fuse

I would get a larger screw, get a set of thread cutting tools like this one, there are smaller cheaper ones and get the screw to the size you need. I would leave the swingarm alone if possible. Some thread lock paste will prevent the build up of rust on the thread https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000K2TC7K?tag=duc08-21&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1

I have a Nolan flip up and love the sunglasses, easy to operate and very helpful on sunny days

To top up the tyres you will just need to remove the sensor and put it back when finished. There are 2 keys that come with the set that will allow you to do it. Comparing to the time you will spend without TPMS I would say that you will spend an extra 2 min each wheel. Usually before longer trips I get on the bike go to a quick round around the village to get the sensors going and only top up if I see that it's needed. The process to mount the sensors (opposite operation to remove) is to put in the small locking nut on the valve then screw in the sensor and tight the nut up with the small spanner they will give you.

Get one of these, I hav4e one for 2 years now and works a treat https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32914345141.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.1682409cC4I9qx&algo_pvid=187a9eea-39f7-4f9e-8470-453f2995769a&algo_expid=187a9eea-39f7-4f9e-8470-453f2995769a-17&btsid=0b0a0ad815921468847513976e3873&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ It will repair the battery if it can be saved. It works for both AGM and Lithium batteries. Never used it as trickle charger because have an Oxford 600 that works to perfection and have a direct plug to the battery so no faffing around with the seat and covers

I find the one I have pretty good and never felt the need to let my phone poking its nose The TPMS will start working as soon you move the bike and the sensors on the wheel will only need a few 100 yrds to start working. If the bike was stopped for a longer period I will have checked the pressure before moving it anyway. The bluetooth to the phone is useless for the following: Sensors only work when the wheel is in movement. You would have to be looking at the phone which while riding is illegal and dangerous The display that comes with the TPMS is more than enough to give you essential information. It will give you pressure for each wheel, temperature and will have a warning if there is a puncture and the tyre is deflating too fast. Also, you can set alarms to temperature and pressure variation for each wheel. If you can be bothered with taking the wheels off and the tyres and put a internal sensor this is the best option, even if more expensive. It will allow you to adjust the pressure without taking the sensor out. There are some adaptors you can get that will have a double valve so the sensor is fitted on one and the other is for topping up pressure if needed. I never got it because I'm a lazy git The place I got the TPMS for the bike have similar with 4 sensors for cars, I never heard of these for caravans or trailers but when I finish building the pull behind trailer I'll look for it

Hi and welcome to the forum