husoi

Not that simple. Road safety will say to divide the lane in 3 sections. 1 will be the third to the left 2 middle third 3 right third. You would ride on position 3 most of the time and this is known as command position. Where you will be the most visible. On bends you will take position 3 if left bend and position 1 for right bend. You will adopt position 2: - Over a hump where you can't see the oncoming traffic. - when other vehicles come on opposite lane. This will allow you to keep a safety bubble. - When approaching a left side junction and you can see vehicles wanting to join the road you're on There is a lot more to it than what I just said.

It will happen that a driver is distracted or busy with something else that won't see a biker even if you're wearing a amber flashing light on top of tour helmet. Hence bikers developing a sixt sense in predicting what other people wil do. Prevention may slow you down and delay your arrival a few minutes but it will make sure you arrive. One of the most important things you can do as a rider is positioning yourself on the road in a way you maximise your visibility. There will always be an idiot that is messing with the phone and won't care about anything else

Practicing my plastic welding skills From this to fixing fairing welding

that's pretty much what poleas Scotland is

I want to nominate my ex manager, his manager and the MD of the company where I have worked until yesterday. Bless the day I left Now looking for something new to do

Hey and welcome to the forum. You can ask as many questions as you want. There is no such thing as a daft question. We also love a good photo too.

I've used seafoam in my Shadow. Both as fuel additive and in the engine oil. The engine oil was due to the clutch starting to slip. The problem was solved in minutes and never had a problem again. I'm the fuel I use it when I know the bike will be stopped for a few weeks. The engine starts first time with little crank. Like 2 turns and is running. I have used it on the pan too, however, because runs more than the shadow and it's injection I don't feel much difference. I strongly recommend it for carb bike as it keeps the system clean and problem free.

Thought of the day When life gives you lemons. Throw them at your boss's head

A cork in the tap

To soften the rubber use either a heat gun if you have one or hairdryer. It works really well

Can't imagine saying That's a very lascivious waste water project

Before starting to strip everything. Have you tried adding some seafoam additive to the fuel? It does wonders. SeaFoam Petrol & Diesel Fuel Treatment 473ml (force4.co.uk)

Unless you mean the idle jet. Then yes they are adjustable Plenty of fun syncing dual carbs Not impossible or too difficult, just one of those precision jobs you want to get right first time.

From time to time you will need to replace them. Mostly if second hand bike old enough and previous owner(s) were a bell end and messed with it. Usually jets are fairly cheap. Mods to exhaust or a different air filter will usually result in the need to different jets.

Without looking at the service manual I won't be able to tell. I think Google will be your best chance to find out about torque figures.

Basically yes. Make sure you have something like a jack under the bike to prevent the forks trying to go any further and to help with the weight of he bike. Undo the 4 bolts so the forks can move easily. Push the forks down into place. Measure the distance from the cap to the top brace and make sure is exactly the sam on both sides. Then tight the bolts. Not like an orangutan on steroids take the jack off and you will be good to go

Maybe they weren't tightened properly and the fall have push them up. That will affect the feel of the suspension. Have you tried bringing them to the correct position?

Do you need to have a company for that?

Although this doesn't affect me. This article is another demonstration that we live in a country run by people with the brain of a jellyfish..... https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-68658209

Issue with Stainless is the chemical reaction with aluminium which will seize them the same and SS quality isn't the best.

I wonder if nickel platting on the new bolts will be a good idea... Any thoughts?

A few weeks ago, while replacing the brakes on the Pan I noticed it just become a bucket of rust During the weekend I tried to remove the fairings. No luck there, most bolts are rusted and won't move. So, order new set of all bolts and plastic fixings for good measure. Just need to find a way to remove the wee rusted things Thinking on the lines of a reverse thread drill where bolts attach to the frame. Not too worried about the ones connecting the fairings. Things going really badly, (as probably will) will need to think about more radical measures.