Chrissb6

Hi bleed the brakes get some pressure in the lever, then get a tie wrap and squeeze up the lever and lock it with the tie wrap leave it for a while preferably overnight, cut it loose that should sort it.

For the money you can't go wrong just be sure to spend a little bit of time making sure the speakers and microphone are in the right place, this makes a massive difference in the performance. Our helmets didn't offer enough space to make a comfy fit for the supplied speakers so l soldered in place a stereo jack plug, we now use in ear noise cancelling headphones. Tip, still use ear protection you will still hear the system no problem.

Err No Mate, if you don't feel like you've got full control at slow speeds what makes him think going faster going to cure it?. The first thing the highways agencies do in strong wind is issue speed restrictions particularly on bridges and exposed areas. Bigger bikes are more stable in high winds but believe me, you can still get caught out, watch out on country roads that are protected by hedges, going by an open gateway can lead to you being hit by a strong gusts that will feel like the wheels are being whipped from under you. Top tip ride in your own comfort zone. Stay safe

Ali a big thanks for this, one of the best reports l have read. Like yourself l'm gadget mad, we love to listen to music and chat whilst on the move, my next goal is to fit a dab radio to the bike the problem l've been trying to get around is the blue tooth protocol of only transmitting a signal to one receiver l want to Bluetooth the music form one source to 2 headsets l believe that Sena now allow this to happen. I was hovering over buying a pair of SMH10s but after reading this should l hold back and go for the 20s questions questions? l don't like buying something only to find out that a newer model is just around the corner.

Ear plugs are a must mate if you want to save your hearing, they'll also help you maintain better concentration whilst riding. Earplugs are designed to cancel out the high frequency ear damaging noises, you should still be able to hear the coms system no problem.

Just been looking over this little gem http://www.digital-speedos.co.uk/dayton ... 1724-p.asp just might be the thing to save me fiddling around with the controls on the headset

Hi Mate, question how far a distance do you need to transmit and receive from ? We use these head sets as a group and they work fine http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1000m-2pcs-BT ... 43c9cacc71

This is true but I don't want to take the chance of me bashing in to it and sending fluid slopping all over the plastic and paintwork. If your not sure of the level just fit a piece of hose to the bleed nipple and put the other end into a bottle, crack the bleed nipple open then push the piston back. Then there's little or no chance of soaking the paintwork in brake fluid. Have some brake cleaner at hand for a clean up just in case anyway I would never push the piston back with the reservoir cover off, your really asking for trouble you could easily end up soaking the bike in brake fluid.

Normally the reservoir has more than enough space in there to allow the piston to be pushed back. On assembly the calliper will be fitted with new pads then system is then filled up bled and level checked. Unless you have topped up the reservoir recently with well worn pads still fitted, then yes you might need to remove some of the oil. I've never personally had to remove oil to fit new pads be it car or bike.

Hi the piston will not go all the way back easily they do take some force. Just be sure the piston is clean as already said. A pair of bars - screwdrivers should normally be able to prise the piston back. Just be sure you protect the caliper from damage

Hi there's a good few on here use this set with good reviews, littlecat being one of them. we use the next model up l've modified ours to use inear headphones works really well, cristle clear coms right up to silly speeds

Good news glad your sorted. Stepping back and having a second look as stood me good stead for many a year. During my apprenticeship l worked with a great old guy who would puff on his pipe whilst looking for electrical fault in a control panel. l'll never forget his words when he said, l think this needs a cup of tea! Almost every time when we came back the fault just seemed jumped out on us. Sorted

Step back and have a brew, a second coat of looking at normally sorts it. If it's designed for the bike normally there should be no need to cut and drill the bike.Take your time

Hi it's pretty straight forward, take the rear seat off and offer the rack to the rear of the bike the fixing points should be easy enough to find. Would suggest putting a towel or something over the plastics to protect the paint and avoid a mishap. Once you've got everything lined up a bit of thread lock never goes amiss . Have fun

I wen't with it for MOT last Monday and been told that for seal need replacing and I have wheel alignment of chart and chain to tight... with the seal I decided to change the whole forks as there were marks on the old ones like somebody was trying to hammer them or something By meaning wheel alignment does he mean front to rear? Because if he does that could open up a completely different can of worms. You said that the front forks look like they have been hammered this suggest to me that they might of been bent at some [point and someone tried to straighten them out. Quick test here will give you some idea "> If your rear wheel notches are equal both side of the rear wheel and the front is way out l would get it professionally check over.

Hi, 5amp is more than enough

Morning, try this link it's a more direct approach http://www.ultimate-mobiles.co.uk/

Try here my friend http://www.ultimateaddons.co.uk/Vehicle ... ttachments

On a small bolt Mate, it's a pretty fine line between a loose bolt and a stripped thread especially when fixing into Alloy's

My Hayabusa rear axle nut is torqued up to 100nm. I'll bet money most on here will tighten that nut up way passed that. I was shocked the first time l torqued it up with the wrench, there was more than a double take from me to make sure l had got it right, I've had spanners in my hands for ever so l think I've got the knack, but with alloy's and light weight materials used on motorcycles these days you've got to be so careful.

There not big money Mate, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-34570- ... 5d2b34f6d5 The one above will do all but the large nuts and bolts found on a bike For me in reality it's as cheap as chips, this against stripped threads or loose fittings for that matter! You can then ride in the safe knowledge that the bolts just tightened up is done up to spec and not guessed. Best of luck with the repair

Not having a good quality torque wrench and using it properly is oftern the reason for stripped threads. Agree mate removing a scrapped sump you could just strip it off but your far better getting into good habits rather than doing bad

Also crack off the sump bolts in sequence and retighten in sequence to avoid any chance of warping, then finish tightening up with a torque wrench to avoid any more dramas.

Personally l would not sit or ride comfortable with a nob up repair to sump plug, the consequences of that bolt coming out whilst riding does not bare thinking about. Would you ride your bike knowing that your wheel nuts are stripped? Your playing a Dangerous game mate go for a Heli coil fix. Stay safe

Hi first thing first do you have a rack on the bike? If so suggest you look at the Givi range as for what size that depends on what you want to store or carry plenty to choose from on the flee bay site.