Chrissb6

I have looked at a few of these to use with our scala riders but when I look for ear plugs the first thing I look for is the SNR rating and none of these earphones have any of this published even though they are marketed as sound isolating/noise cancelling I've been using this brand for a while Stu, had them on our hard wired intercom system now using them on BT blue tooth intercom. I've had phone conversation with folks whilst on the motorway loud and clear

For biking or other stuff? Seems like a great idea, earphones never stay in comfortably for me, and after an hour or so get uncomfortable. I've borrowed Chris' domed ones, they stay in better than foam ones but still uncomfortable. I'm just a fussy bugger Might try those Boots ones first... For the money these take some beating http://www.advancedmp3players.co.uk/sho ... wgodD3sABA The wires go over the ear the speaker units are about as flat as you can get, just be sure you've got the correct rubber adaptors - fitments fitted for your ear. We ride all day with them they cut the wind noise and offer good clear sound way up to motorway speeds and beyond

Yes mate and would strongly advise you to do so if you have got a limit on you data usage or you are going abroad. I switch off the data transfer when using mine. Just be sure your phone or whatever your using has the GPS switch on. Also be sure to have a power supply connected to your phone as in GPS mode it rinses your battery. All you need is a GPS signal, l use my Samsung without a sim card fitted

I would say no so long as it done properly, there's plenty out there, but better to have the craic with a custom bike site who should know for sure.

Yeah we do thanks, I moooved back near him this time last year and see him, my stepmum and nan all the time now - it's pretty awesome! Feel like I missed out on so much time and still regret it...but getting to make it up at long last. Love them all to bits . Good to hear your now sorted Moo just a shame kids get dragged into nasty divorces. My ex did exactly the same, poisoned my daughter big style against me and my family, made her and my life a misery despite her being the route cause of our split. It's took many years for my daughter to see through it all we now get on fine and Karma has taken care of her Mother, she now on her own with little to no love or friendship shame !! Life is but a one way ticket, so get the best ride you can.

On that note then Mate l would not fit the new battery until you found the fault, your only going to knacker the new battery. By using a car battery you have plenty of spare power to fault find and get it going. You need to check the wiring and connection on the bike, first port of call for me would be the earth straps and connections

Hi sound very much like the battery then Mate, the clicking noise l would almost certainly say is the starter solenoid the fuel pump relay is so small that l doubt if you could here it unless very close up. Have you tried jump starting the bike from a car battery, just to be sure you have no other hidden faults?

Hi, when you say relay do you mean the starter solenoid? First and foremost you say that your battery is charge. So when you press the starter button do you hear a clicking noise from the solenoid also is there any attempt made to turn the engine? Whilst doing this do the warning light on the clocks go dim? If so, suspect a duff battery of a poor electrical connections between the battery - starter solenoid and starter motor, also check the earth connections between the battery and frame. If the warning light stays bright and there's no clicking of the starter solenoid then you need to go through the electric's on the starter circuit. On the starter solenoid you will see 2 large terminals one cable coming from the battery the other from the starter motor also two small cables one is earth the other from the starter circuit, put your test lamp - meter across the small terminal and press the starter button you should get a voltage reading if not you need to trace it back, note this circuit go's back through the side stand safety switch and also the clutch lever on some bikes. If you got a voltage on the small terminals on the solenoid then this would suggest that the solenoid is duff. A simple test to test the starter motor is to get a set of jump leads, connect up the earth connections connect the live to the battery and the other end touch the connection on the solenoid where the starter motor is connected the motor should turn over be careful whilst doing this and only do if you confident enough to try it. Hope this all helps?

Something like this mate http://www.amazon.co.uk/MOTORCYCLE-PUNC ... B001AXK9QQ Hopefully like all the bits and pieces we carry we won't need them But stuck in the middle of nowhere there worth there weight in gold

l feel your pain, a lot of ex's become ex's due to motor bikes, there the third woman as far as most women are concerned . As for taking your youngster out, if she won't play ball and let him go, it's going to take all the fun out of it, no point in having your youngster in the middle of a shit fight by taking legal advice - action. Give Karma time to sort it out all will come good.

Hi this might be of help http://ridershandbook.com/how-to-align- ... r-mot.html Main beam as a rule is not tested but if you've got any consideration for other road users you should get the lights somewhere near correct.

I think they do know what there doing, like most manufactures trying to keep within the noise and emission regulations and also try and release as much power as possible from the motors forces them to make these stupid size dustbin boxes.

Hi, first check the lamps are ok that's an easy fix, it won't be the first time both lamps have gone together, after that the fuse again then you'll have to work your way through the circuitry. Possible faults are loose connections switches and relays. lf the dip beam works l doubt it the fuse has gone as normally the lighting is all on the same circuit, look for tight cables from the bars to the steering head into the headlight a connection might of been pulled.

That will be my argument, the fault was brought to there attention inside the warranty period, obviously to check the torque converter they would have had to remove and strip the gearbox which would have cost them time and money. They changed the bank of solenoids and everything within easy reach. The fault only raised its head when running at motorway speeds or when under high loads. I just hate confrontation

16 mths ago the auto gearbox on my BMW530d let go resulting in £2000.00 repair bill. The garage offered 12,000 mile - 12mths warranty on the repair. During the warranty period l took the car back to the garage no less than 4 times complaining that all was not well with the gearbox. Being mechanical minded I identified and told them that there was a problem with the torque converter when it was coming in and out of lockup from top gear, The garage said don't worry we will look after you! They said on all the occasions after it went back that they had fixed it. The other week whilst setting off for work in Scotland the gearbox let go completely and had to be recovered and taken back to the garage. The garage today have rang me to say the torque converter has let go and destroyed the gearbox. There torque converter supplier will not play ball because the torque converter is now out of warranty. So the garage now want me to contribute 50% towards the cost of the repair "Me not happy" I think this might get a little bit messy. Any ideas where l might stand on this anybody??

No l remove mine, I try not to tempt fate

Some are different spec's to others that one stand corrected, good for 800m in line of site this falls dramatically in built up area's

Yes once connected you can chat away for hrs

Hi you have to press to connect and disconnect to talk your passenger and other riders. There is no vox switching - voice activation, that only works when you answer the phone. Not an issue really you soon get use to it

Hi Mate, seems like someone else has experience the same trouble so it could the regulator http://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/1186 ... diversion/

Question why did you have to jump start the bike? Was the bike battery disconnected, flat or u/s? If so, your voltage regulator will sense this and give out a very high voltage which could be the source of your problem. Make sure your charging circuit is giving out the correct voltage before you hook up anymore replacements. I doubt very much that the pick up is the cause of the problem.

That's the carburettor overflow pipe it should exit to the ground, sound like you've got a sticking float in the carburettor or a blocked vent pipe on the fuel tank

Get the bike cleaned up then go for a good long ride then see what you've got. Modern 4 stroke engine's are no known to carbon up. Lack of performance, smoky exhaust my first port of call would be to check the air filter. But as first said, go and take it for a good ride first then report back.

A good clean will do it a power of good. That popping noise your hearing is probably due to the cold start circuit - choke in operation whilst the engine is warming up. Chill out l'm sure everything will be ok

Hi congratulations on passing your test. Regarding your bike, its been cold lately so it could be condensation coming from the exhaust on start - warm up. If there are no signs of any leaks water or oil, l would suggest you take it out for a ride and get it fully warm up then check and report back. Hopefully it will only be condensation from the exhaust system.