Chrissb6

I love cook whilst camping, having tried numerous gas cookers - stoves over the years I'm now hooked to the Colman multi fuel stove, nothing boils water quicker, no need to carry bottles of gas anymore just a small length of tube to syphon some fuel out of the bikes tank. Colman do there own fuel but that costs a small fortune never had any problems with unleaded. When we go to the IOM l'll nip up to the local B&Q and buy a cheap BBQ there great for grills and sticking a large pan on

Not time of the year to be looking at limits the road are way to dirty for that sort of malarkey, concentrate on keeping nice, calm and steady.

Hi if you going to use a battery your better to get a leisure battery such as a caravan battery. A good sola panel is a must to keep it in a state of charge. A good read up here might be of use http://www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk/helpandadvice/technicalhelp/power/solar-power/

Here you go. http://ridershandbook.com/how-to-align-your-motorcycle-headlight-for-mot.html

Nothing worse than freezing fog, l would be inclined to leave the bike at home and catch the bus. If caught out ride accordingly, never go faster than the breaking distance you can see, stick to the tyre lines in the frost l would keep well away from the middle of the road preferably to the outside tyre tracks as generally the salt if its been spread will be thrown into the gutter or in the middle of the road where the beads - gravel collects making another hazard to ride through. As already said, keep warm a dry take your time stay safe.

Friday for us, hopefully there'll be some dry roads

Hi, l had a similar problem one time with the Bimota, the bike went in for it first free service on riding it home l notice it was not running free on the overrun, then came the smell of burning from the rear end. On inspection l found that they had adjusted the rear brake peddle return stop screw to tight causing the brake to drag " cost them a new disc it was blued and a new set of pads". Before you set off give the wheel a spin to make sure it free then apply the rear brake and see if there's enough free travel before the brake bite's, remember as the brake heats up and generates heat this is also transmitted into the oil which will cause a small amount of expansion enough to make the pads drag.

Always good to make notes in your head of the different sounds that come from the bike, as a plant mechanic l always walk round with ears and eyes open monitoring the plant whilst in full flight, any squeaks groan's or other are never over looked or ignored. A 5 min check over with a grease gun or a tighten up with a spanner here or there could save you from untold drama and expense.

Won't be the first won't be the last, good that you've found it and fair play for owning up

Optimate chargers are really good at keeping the battery in good shape, and l would say a necessity if your bike is fitted with an alarm

I susspect that the RAC man checked the battery whilst the engine was not running. A 125 will not have a bunch of electrical power but enough to work the grips whilst the engine is running. Easy enough test to do, lift the seat and gain access to the battery terminal. Get the multi meter put the red lead into the volts DC terminal and the black into negertive or common terminal set the meter dial to 0 to 20 volts DC important. Put the back lead on the -- terminal and the red to + pos and check the voltage. If the battery is charged you should get a reading of 12volts. If this so all good, next step start the motor and again test acrosss the battery as before and note the voltage this time it should should be higher 13 volts or higher. This will indicate that the charging system is working. Next step is to test the electric charge withe the electric loaded. So now switch on the lights heated grips and check the charge voltage again, you might notice the voltage has dropped below 12volts if the motor is on tick over secure the test leads to the battery and increase the revs and see if the voltage increases if it does all well and good just take note if your trip keeps you for long times in standing traffic you might need to give the battery a top up chage at home now and to compensate

42 back and front on the Busa, generally most bikes are 36 front 42 rear

If you want to go next you better get a move on ferry places are at a premium most are already booked up as well as accommodation. We only just managed to get on our normal camp site thats now already booked up. It's not cheap to get there in fact its a stupid price for a bike crossing, you can can across the channel uptean times for the price, what l will say is this there's no experience like it on the planet it's got to be done once, a tee shirt well worth getting. Regarding risk of theft your on a island, so highly unlikely as its full of bikers not thieves and robbers. Get it booked.

Many many times Why do you ask?

Hi Laura what bike are you riding? l'm currently teaching my partner Sue to ride, she riding a Yamaha YBR125 and doing fine, these little bikes are ideal for learning to ride on, but become more difficult to ride near to there limits which is 50mph plus, strongly agree with the rest they are nowhere near as stable or as easy to ride as a bigger bikes, so for the moment just enjoy what you've got and concentrate on building your road craft. Another question l would like to ask, are you using any ear protection - ear plugs? If not, you will find as your speed increases the wind noise becomes more prevalent and big distraction to a point of becoming scary, also over a period of time you can damage your hearing. Riding with ear plugs will really helps you concentrate. If your really not sure about speed - never tried it, why not ask your instructor to take you out for a ride for the experience. Enjoy stay safe

A very informative video, as already said it's all down to common sense and road craft, take your time look way up the road and read it. I'll bet any money that instructor would not ride the so called sump line if it was cold wet and looking slick, Agree modern motors have come on leaps and bounds environment wise, but there's still loads of trucks and buses leaving there deposits on busy roads. You will also notice that after heavy rain that grit, stones and other shite that gets washed into the road is soon cleared from the tire tracks only to be piled up in the centre and sides of the road.

On warm dry day's especially on busy roads - built up areas you can see the black greasy slick of oil and shite in the middle of the road dumped by the thousands of buses, lorries and cars passing over time, you should always keep well off this and keep to the worn tracks at any time. Come the Autumn with the roads wet and leaf covered it's hard to see this slick on all the roads and so it becomes the bikers worse nightmare, pay extra attention when entering and exiting roundabouts, if going straight across we all have a tendency to cut across the lanes, treat roundabouts when the roads are wet and cold as if you were riding of ice. Winter bike riding takes on a completely different mind set

Autumns here, roads are going to get cold, wet and greasy. Time to forget about speed and concentrate on riding in a full defensive mode. Wet leafy covered roads can be treacherous no tyre hot or cold going to offer any form of grip here. The centre of the road were a biker generally ride becomes the most dangerous remaining cold wet and greasy through out the day , suggest you keep to the roads well worn tyre tracks which generally are kept clear of leaves and dirt by traffic, also any heat if any available is going to happen here, be very careful crossing through the centre of the road this is where the roads will remain cold wet and greasy. Take your time look at the road, learn to read the road conditions and think well ahead, brake sooner - smoother stay safe.

Anyone thinking of going heads up, Tattershell bridge road works, road closed https://www.bbc.co.uk/travel/2636180/incidents/road/roadworks" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Last fire up of the season for Lanc, followed by a fireworks should be a good event. We having some of this http://www.lincsaviation.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hi, you say it's very bassy when you try to start it, you have a spark and you have fuel with a wet plug. I would then suggest you do a compression test that Basie noise might be a blown head gasket, piston ring or the valves might need attention, also check the exhaust system for air leaks and for oil in the exhaust pipe to. Keep us posted

This might also be the answer to the problem that l cannot pair the Nokia phone to the blue tooth system in the VW Touareg also Joy!! This phone is up for renewal soon anyway, any recommendations for a replacement?

Thanks guy's for the heads up regarding the Nokia phone Bluetooth issues, l find it strange that we never had any of the Scala issues with the BT sets maybe the Scala units are to clever-sensitive for there own good? Not had chance to try the replacement unit yet, but it seems that l'm not the only one with these issues. https://support.sena.com/entries/54685620-Shuts-off-at-random" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Having had several years use out of our £60 a pair BT Bluetooth headsets with little to no problem I decided to and upgrade to something a bit more higher spec. So l jumped in a brought a set of Scala Rider Q3 headsets this system ticked all the boxes apart from the price, but as we use head sets all the time we thought we might as well get the best. These have been nothing but trouble, issues are random shutdowns vox system not working and failure to connect to our mobile phones, we never encountered any of this with the other units. I've since been in touch with the scala help line and today got this reply Thank you for contacting the Cardo Systems Support Center. This sounds like an issue that we are aware of that exists with certain Nokia phones, which causes these types of problems with a variety of Bluetooth devices – not just scala rider products. Our software development team is investigating the issue to determine if this is a problem that can be resolved on our end or if this is a Nokia related problem. Unfortunately we are unable to provide any solutions at this time. I apologize for any inconvenience that this may cause. Some of our customers have reported successful use with Nokia phones and the scala rider headsets by waiting to turn Bluetooth on from the Nokia phone after the headset is turned on and connected with any other devices. As already said, we never had any issues like this with out cheap BT units. Fair play to Amerzon customer support who l might say have been brilliant, they have sent us a replace system on the pretext that this might be a faulty unit so we will wait and see. Anybody else encountered similar issues with these units?