Valko

The Highwayman Inn as required for my #1 of South Midlands:

Finished all the pubs today The Wheatsheaf The Coach Queens Head

My MT09 - I know you can't actually see it, that is because I am riding it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hJDpM0pHGk&t=1m19s

Few pubs today, The Bell: The Crown: The Anchor: The Barley Mow: The Queen Victoria: The Red Lion: The George and the Dragon (yep there is a Dragon

http://i65.tinypic.com/1zc3hj4.jpg The worst is that may not be a joke at all: http://i66.tinypic.com/2ywh94x.jpg Who is laughing now. ^^^ The sentence above in bold is my worst joke.

Something wrong I can't read it, is this the same one TM read yesterday in Brussels

Just saying: http://i63.tinypic.com/20zvcdl.jpg

Buy a nut and a new washer, you have lost the washer too. When you add tne new nut and washer make sure you bend the washer - the washer is designed to prevent the unlocking if you bend it properly. Add blue loctite on the nut before you tighten exactly as per specs. Then bend the washer. This way will never come off again itself. http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/attachments/fz6-fz6r/95903d1156438668-sprocket-nut-washer-one-sm_dsc01821.jpg Exactly the same nut off has happen to me last week on my old Fazer FZS600. Because I am too lazy and have not bend the washer nor added blue loctite on my last sprocket/chain change 4000 miles ago

Yes textile will be more comfty then leather. When you say commuting do you mean all time winter commuting or good weather only? If you mean all time winter commuting do not get sport jacket. Also for rainy weather the jackets with waterproof membrane are no good. It matters how long you commute - there is difference between 30 mins and 4 hours winter commute. The reason been although waterproof inside membrane, the outer material soaks with water - means getting heavy, and soon or later you get water on inside from somewhere too. And it takes forever to dry - means you may get back to home after work with still soaked jacket. The only thing that works is laminated Gore-tex gear - the goretex is laminated together with the outer material. These are expensive though. Cheap way to stay dry is use waterproof 1 piece over suit or over jacket and pants.

I was expecting something with ladies here. I have to say I am disapointed now

You are a dick. I have not seen a single wheelie

IMO IAM and RoSpa are just glorified social clubs. There is no statistics that support any claim that you will be safer rider after doing the training. Otherwise the insurance companies would have made the insurance much lower and they don't. I dare you to pove me wrong with some accidents stats and facts. Not likely. If anything you will be more dangerous on the road. At least I know a guy with IAM that got more expensive policy after declaring it's advanced training. You do the maths LOL Do not get me wrong any training is good. I have few problems with "advanced riding". Giving you false sense of control. Some very controversial advices in Roadcraft. Speed aka making progress obsession. Not to mention the loss of control is one of the major reasons for accidents. Means better spent your money on some real motorcycle control training not imaginery observers. Like off road and MX, track ride or say controlled training like: http://www.i2imca.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Yes I have been with IAM riders - it is just a bad joke FYI riding in groups is proven to be more dangerous then riding solo

I am looking to buy this one for £256: http://www.fc-moto.de/Scott-Distinct-1-Gore-Tex-Jacket" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; It was cheaper, but the pound exchange rate currently got some pounding...

Not sure Joe both are Gore-tex membrane not laminate. That means they are 100% waterproof, but the outer material will get soaked with water that means they will get very heavy and then you need many hours to dry them out. The pants are about £30 cheaper then laminated Lontan D1. http://www.fc-moto.de/epages/fcm.sf/en_GB/?ObjectID=119490604&ViewAction=ViewProduct" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hello and welcome Get a new OEM air filter. If that does not help check the starter relay and ALL electrical connection - bad connection can do that to you.

+1 I bought Dainese Lontan pants. They are laminated Gore-tex. I found them discounted for £220 - bargain IME the only gear that worths in rainy weather is laminated Gore-tex. No need to buy Rukka though. There are plenty other lamineted gear. I am looking for a jacket now. Dainese Stradon is too expensive. Probably will buy Scott Pro laminated or Dainese Atlantik.

Interphone F5MC has two mics - one is flat: http://www.interphone.com/en/products/intercoms/interphone-f5mc/20438" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Check other Interphone models too.

I use SJCAM SJ4000 wifi, permanently mounted with RAM B mount, connected to the PDM60 fuselless power supply: http://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8503/28894237443_b0e32aa50c_k.jpg You can use any fused USB power that you may have available on the bike. I have used soldier iron to make a hole in the waterproof case for the usb power lead. The camera has car dashcam mode. Means I turn the ignition the camera is on. I turn it off the camera is off. Note there are plenty fake SJCAMs. Mine is original from here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01CNVJVBC/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; If it is cheaper then £40 is a fake. I use it for black box purposes. Wifi is nice because I can download any video from the camera to my phone withouth fiddling with the usb power connection under the seat. If you want to read number plates you need Full HD 1080p resolution camera.

the best way to overtake lycra's gang...ever

Good luck

Edit: Anybody for a short 2 hours Sunday 28th Aug local roads ride out? About 2 hours starting 10am from Ascot, Henley on Thames, Sonning, Windsor, back to Ascot https://goo.gl/maps/wNMqHE2fudr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; We may have some bacon and eggs along the way

IL4s as Fazer engine braking is more forgiving and gentle then twins like SFV650. Absolutely not. There is no need whatsoever to have sequential gear change at all. I have a Fazer FZS600. If I do a traffic light gran prix I do 1st then 2nd. Bear in mind I can do 70mph in 2nd. After I reach some speed and I am far away ahead I just go from 2nd to 4th or even 5th. Doing sequential change makes your ride too aggresive. The same is even more valid for downshifting. Probably the instructor already told you - never use the engine braking only when slow down. That is a fault in the mod2 and also very bad habit in the real life. You do not want to be rear ended by a car do you? Always use a brake too, so that the vehicles behind see your brake light and know that you're slowing down. There are many ways to use gears. Say you are doing 30 mph. You can do that on Fazer in 4th and even 5th gear, the higher the gear the more forgiving is the engine braking. Engine braking is very strong in low gears like 1st, 2nd, 3rd. You do not need to go via all gears available when slowing down and downshift. The key to smooth ride is forward planning. Say you are doing 30mph in 4th approaching roundabout or a traffic light. Do not slam on the breakes or change gears to slow down. You can apply slight brake and stay in 4th and plan your arrival. If needed pull the clutch and brake but stay in 4th. If you really see you need to slow down more, downshift when the clucth is pulled this way engine braking is not affecting your smooth ride. The goal is to stay in higher gear and when you need to engage again slip the clutch a little (you keep it at the biting point but not fully on and apply a little trhottle so that you do not stall the bike) this way you can go via the roundabout at say 20 mph in 4th gear. If you see you need to stop you apply first front brake say when 30mph in 4th gear, after the bikes slows down to say 10 mph then pull the clutch and do not engage again the gears just downshift all the way to 1st gear and go to a full stop with the front and back brake without using any of the low gears. This way when you stop at the traffic light completely you keep your right foot on the back brake and just put your left foot down. Very smooth stop. And you already are in first gear so no need to use your left foot. When the light goes green or the roundabout is free you just let smoothly the clutch again slipping it with a little throttle to be sure no stall, release the back brake and off you go again. You use low gears downshifting only when you need not all the time. For example you want to be in 2nd because you need to be at more torque for some reason. Like 4x4 coming behind and you anticipate fast accelerating in 2nd. Really not gonna happen on mod2. Try my method until you get more epxerience with gears. Whatever you do braking or changing gears make sure you do it smoothly. The movement of the bike must be smooth not jerky. Smooth gear change happens when you slip the clutch a little. The bike moves more smoothly if you keep higher gear.

I would go. The climate is great

You should have seen me crashing in a row of parked cars on my first bike ride. Bare in mind the bike was two stroke and they accelerate much faster then the current 4 strokes LOL You will be fine, the clutch is your friend make sure if you panic squeeze the clutch. That helps. And invest in GoPro...

Galfer HH Sintered and they are not very expensive either about £18 from Calsport http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/calsport-1?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2754" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;