Joeman

That's bike porn to people of a certain age. They were the THE bike to have when I was teenager.. power wheely tastic. Well said!! They Dont make bikes like that anymore... I miss the good old days of 125cc two stroke power bands!! Cheap to fix, great fun to ride... Are you selling or riding it yourself??

What happens if you put the choke on a bit? Does that stop it dying??

This one looks OK considering her age!! http://www.bennettsbabesearch.co.uk/gal ... F91D956AC5

Take a lighter with you so you can burn your L-plates when you pass

New forks bought from eBay... I figured the seals cant be any worse than my current seals, and best case they might be as described and be recently serviced with stiffer springs. If they look good, i'll swap them out and sell my current forks on ebay... assuming the new forks are good, it works out cheaper than replacing the seals with OEM parts!

buy an old dishwasher off eBay and bung all the bits in for a long cycle

Probably, but the 180cc looks the same as the 125cc. Only if they read the 180cc sticker or did a check on the bike would they know it was a 180cc and not a 125cc. Also, i've seen loads of driving instructors driving about solo in cars with L-Plates attached. they dont get pulled!

I might stick some L-Plates on my Gillera-180 scooter and see what happens. That bike (180cc two stroke) will out accelerate most cars, but if they want to play silly buggers, i'm more than happy to park up, tap on the window and catch the whole conversation on helmet cam

Exactly the sort who would crap their pants if you got off you bike and knocked slowly on their window for a chat.....

Need to get some rude stickers and when people block you off, simply stick one on their back bumper and ride off...

yep, i messaged the guy to ask what weight they are sprung for.. no point if they are sprung for a lightweight - im a 90kg lump

LOL, good plan!!! I did find these on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 1218821537 with OEM parts adding up to over 100quid, Racetech springs at 70quid, plus i got a quote from the bike shop saying it would cost 98+vat+parts if i carry the forks in, if these are as good as the advert suggests, it could be a cheap, quick option!!

think there is a review of them in this months "Fast Bike" magazine..

or fowlers in bristol if robinsons are out of stock. stu please PM the code, if your going to be forking out (geddit?) £100+ for seals then speak to k-tech about having it revalved/resprung and set to your weight. will cost you some more but having previously had a bike with k-tech internals i really rate them. Yes, thanks stu, share the discount happiness!!! Theres a bike tuner in sevenoaks pretty close to me (slipstream racing). I'm waiting to hear back from them regarding if this is something they do regularly and get an idea of costs. Although once I have the forks off the bike, I may as well open one up to see what's going on in there - I'm keen to do them myself if its not too much bother. So I can order in the seals, and worst case I hand them over to the shop to fit for me! I've always felt the front end was a bit soft (I'm 90kg) but I'll have to work out if its worth Forking Out (thats a bad joke!) for new springs and valving if I'm not going to keep the bike for much longer...

I was thinking about new springs too... it would be handy to have stiffer ones. from the pic, once the fork cap bolt (A) has been unscrewed, i can then compress the spring, and separate the Cap Bolt (A) from the Adjuster Rod (1) . Leaving the cartridge (5) still attached to the lower leg, once the clip (9) is removed, i should be able to slip the outer tube (6) up over the top... i can then easily prise the fork seal out of the outer tube (6) The special too used for removing the oil seal looks pretty crude!! So wheres a good place to order OEM seals, and possibly some stiffer springs online??

I read the service manual again, and looks like to do the seals i do have to split the whole fork Because they are upside down forks and there doesn't seem to be a way to remove the seals without splitting the forks as the bottom bit that holds the wheel and brake callipers doesn't come off the lower fork leg.. There also seems to be lots of little o-rings that need replacing too... looks like a pig of a job TBH

problem is, a lot of people cant poo without peeing too (try it)... So i reckon most will pee all over their pulled down trousers...

better than road rash!! it only takes a second for the bike to fall over and ruin the whole side panel..

Yeah, that sounds like the simpler way, rather than stripping them down completely... Good idea to use the old seal as a drift I think i'll go take the forks off the bike and have a look what im dealing with. Since one seal is totally shafted, i cant make things any worse!!

Thanks guys, yes they are USD forks.. i've downloaded the service manual, and it doesnt look too complicated.. Ive asked the local bike tuner how much they would charge if i dropped the forks off to them... if they come back with a crazy price i'll have a go myself... any idea what people should charge for servicing forks??

I Dont know what I'm doing next week, let alone 3months in the future!! But sounds like it could be good fun, so keep the thread alive and i might join you

I've been looking at these again recently. It seems three year old bikes only drop about 3-3.5k in value so with zero percent finance available, owning one could be very affordable... I went and sat on one a few weeks ago, and it felt very similar in size to my GSXR600. If we do get a proper summer, I might seriously consider part exchanging the gixxer in for a brand new s1000. Will require some negotiation with the other half though as with new baby in the house she thinks I should be slowing down and saving money, not speeding up!! Lol.

Anyone changed the fork seals on a gixxer?? One of mine has died and leaked oil all over my front wheel.. Any special tools needed or "gotchas" I need to look out for??

Also uploaded a video to YouTube showing the 1/5 throttle... Hopefully you can see that at full throttle, the wrist is still in a comfortable position. ">