RideWithStyles

The only suspension issues with those era of Z were, first lack of grease, then the slight mismatch of suspension set up balance like the front was artificial stiff (primarily the valve set up) yet the rear was overly soft. Fork seals weren’t the strongest ever yet better than ohlins. Rear shock wasn’t rebuildable and probably at the end of its life by now? these bikes are tyre brand model and pressure sensitive, even 2psi difference from high can make them feel their flat so absolutely needs checking often. dont get me wrong, great bikes and solid just keep those things in mind.

Its a Peugeot….not even a old one with some charms for any driver yet had faults you could over look for the the positives, of the likes of 106 rallye and got, 205gti, 306gti6, 309 gti, 406 to name a few. a modern one has non of the aspects of what made them successful and some passion to thrive a drivers car and wanted by a driver, directed by money men and share holders. now they are not even skin deep likability, dulled and only aspirations to make the home landers buy into it just because its made at home, looks mildly better than the dog shit filled streets of Paris and the surrounding areas…. Family from both sides WERE real Peugeot lilkers so we know how much they have changed over the years so here’s a brief list. 106 rallye x3, 106 1.4 quick silver, 106 gti x1, 106 1.5diesil x1, 306 gti6x1, 309 1.6x1, 3008, 2008, some people carrier thing…to name a few. The only ones that had the lesser problems where the 106, 306,309….and they weren’t the best for reliability back then and comparing them to the modern ones would give them solid credentials. and to name a few problems of the newer ones that range from unusable, mot failures (even before an mot is due) like complete failures of Speedo’s, dashes, ecu, door modules etc. im not a mini fan in the slightest nor a betting man by any means but if I was to put money on it, the mini for aspects to be worth more and more likely to be dependable.

bottom picture, right side at the bottom of bike, two pipes (inlet and out let) leading to the circular double domed cast part.

Many will say, time and again stick to a proper brand jap, European hell even a proper Italian one (not benelli as they dont count). avoid the very direct Chinese stuff if possible lexmoto. Ajs might look nice I’ll agree from pictures but that can be deceiving. are bit like the benelli, a large proportion of the whole bike is cheap Chinese parts factory dumpster quality control bin reused with Stevie wonder on shift. don’t get me wrong they are getting better fast, just not to the same level yet. If you do go down that route the resale value that ull be wanting to use to upgrade will be absolutely low costing you more even if anyone whats to px or buy it in the first place. as to the idea of a 125 sports bike for a mid life crisis rider even taking out the account if your body frame, id suggest not going for that, ergonomics are completely different , comfort and slow speed handling goes out of the window. A faired bike only really works if your going fast and in a tuck every where, as said before faster? for what??? just stick to a road bike (naked, trail, cruiser, adventure) comfort (more than 20mins) for you and ease of use would be the first choice and a better option.

Yes agree with capt. its a brand unknown among the many other pumped out by Chinese start ups etc by more western side life. Well how can i put it….its an unknown thing vaguely resembling or pretend to be a bike or just not there in the system For it or anyone else might know. Its quality, verification of any stds, or conformity is unknown. value if replacement or repair is unknown, injury or death by the bike own failure is also unknown quantity…so much risk for little reward.

Insurances seem to have this thought of the water shed off the 600cc capacity. went straight from 600s 100hp (TC and zx6r) with a bit of money pain for the first year or so as expected but first policy was still around £500 off memory. jumped to 1000cc 150hp yet not much of a difference to them apparently considering the fact it does make a massive difference of half again on an already fast and dangerous vehicle. but I went down to a 500 46hp for four years, more than twice the difference less in power but didn’t make that much difference to the quote considering the fall. after the four years I went to a 650 with only 77hp so roughly half again more but asked me if I have then experienced with a 600 or more before within two or so years so I said the previous bike was a 1000cc four years ago, surprisingly the quote was pretty much the same. Steve depending on the price of your total separate policies have you looked into business/trade policies? Most of the time they can cover a lot for less…

Fit is just that, if it fits your biometrics were their average design and manufacturing. Oxfords are generally good but seems to be a hit or miss aspect of there manufacturing rather than the basic design. Weve had good results with both rst and richa over the years but both seemingly make wildly different fitment between models and styles.

I’ll keep this short as my phone has no patience today. Statically your more likly to be killed by biking than flying but I’m no expert in the flying matter but I’m sure ull more likly to end up terminal with flying if it goes very wrong. how do you know that a Rm1 will be too slow for you with no experience? Some completely shit over a 125 yet if you ride them like there meant to be as designed they certainly will surprised and teach you a lot. A 125 ridden well will beat most normal cars. Power corrupts and makes you lazy and dependent on it. At the end of the day you only want pootering and posing. we have an electric car, it has it benefits and its negatives, no great difference to a EV bike just smaller scale. If you are the right person, life style and housing set up and the correct bike with its requirements it can be but they are very narrow aspects. if you can use it a lot (down south) and have very good EV rates its running costs outweigh its price. But EV bikes are by no means standised in anyway yet which cars are partly there yet the bikes have fell in this dump pit again yet never used the car sector as a guide to short cut these and many aspects, started off at that problem many years ago and yet the biking designers fook wits high up never caught on the the very obvious problem why it never caught on earlier. at the moment you have no experience nor no stake in the ground to base any you views or what you feel is correct, go through the system and get a full license ride abit on something that looks about right for as many boxes it ticks avoid marketing bs and you lack of knowledge trying to fit into you expectations. I mean that nicely.

Problem is it will most likely will happen, how many studs and how much work is almost impossible to predict until your well beyond committed, for me I’d predict its every single one and a day of a job including hexicoiling (a mechanic will split his time between it while penetrating fluids do there work) and anything less is a bonus. As I say if it was essential to have it done right now (blowing exhaust mot fail) then its not worth it just for vanity sake. wire brush, penetrating fluid, wire brush, penetrating Fluid, when you finished that session leave a coat of xcp anticorrion or acf50, use the bike, then when time do another session above until you at least get the visual surface rust off them (at least it won’t look ugly) and the start thread of the block at least then they dont need to fight that crap and given them some chance and save time and money- you never know.

Is it still doing it or is it only when you do something now? if it’s timed with the engine speed and does it get better or worse if the clutch is in or not? First if its chain it will be timed with the revolution. Was it in time with the engine speed (faster you go it happens faster) and if accelerating or de accelerating - one or ethe other? if a pin of a link is loose or the plate is very much goofed (oval over holed) and just looking at it might not look bad at first but will make a noise as it’s pushed or pulled by the forces and slam into a kinked place by the first sprocket tooth it meets then as it is partially released by the under side of the drive. I know because that happened to me traveling from the north to exmouth . if the chain is too tight that can strain everything and over load. crush drives are a possible but mostly that will be when you put it into first ull notice it or if it’s proper goosed it wil slap abit as to harsh throttle inputs but shaking? The likly hood of feeling it shaking and wobbling is extremely low unless it’s absolutely trashed them all. check the sprockets. if not them some deeper delving might be needed.

There’s a certainty with brands, of trust and quality, it costs and a profit margin is good. But the volume is a lot lower so to have a claim against it eats into that very quickly and your credibility will be damaged. if you can’t keep your head above water with claims left right and centre your not going to last. Nice saying that but how often do these expensive bikes breakdown? The other aspect works if your in china if it’s very cheap and throw away commodity, with high volume that can work for those closer to main source… so if the Benelli was a grand of two at most new and still had a three year warranty or so and the reliability was quite near the japs/euro/uk probably id buy into that and replace every four or so years but that doesn't work for a lot of people here. if you bought a Chinese brand tv for £300 and a Sony with same spec for £600, if they both last to 10-20years without faults or failure then the Chinese one is better value as old age or defunct technology makes them obsolete and ready to recycle. But if the Chinese failed one, even halfway or more it actually costed you more plus with prices rising all the time so false economy. now if you did a similar thing with bikes but they have a actual resale value where as TVs have very little. if I had to pay out what was needed for the benelli - if those parts were still available even after 3-4years of sale, over the course of my long termed would have had to pay out half or more of the original purchase price and the value of the bike was under 2 thousand when I was lucky to px it. So for the whole money out lay if I had to pay that out really I could have gotten something a lot better though on first thought it wouldn’t be possible and less visits to the dealer but I didn’t mind chatting to them. that’s the other thing of if even a known brand with some credible background for a good few years then just decided to make some thing else doesn’t mean they know WTF they are doing….case in points - google to cars, Dyson to cars, Peugeot to cars and more modernly Tesla to cars. only a few brands have merged as somewhat successful Suzuki (middling), bmw focused on engine vehicles, to a point Kawasaki and fairly strongly Yamaha. when I was at the dealer looking at the benelli, even the dealer advised to avoid the FB Mondial….backed by piaggo yet owned by a Chinese component supplier. so out of the five bikes non Chinese bikes we’ve owned long term the second most troublesome bike I’ve had was a used Daytona 955 (not the utter most reliable one of triumph) at that point was something like about 14yr old when I bought it , lucky for me did it after they collected the bike but before they PDC it had a charging issue which they sorted out properly, now even if I had to pay for it them (stator and reg) and the bike in whole would have been less than I paid out for the benelli depreciation only before any parts and further out lay it required if I had to pay them…and I would have had a valuable bike to sell even if the only trouble it gave me was I had to buy a new battery every two years without fail. yet the one Chinese one which I liked btw gave me by far the most trouble than 5 other used bikes put together. As others say, do what you want and may luck be on your side (we aint a mean lot) but if not do not be surprised if the worst happens.

Hi yes they are good and trustworthy, it will be a trusted parallel twin engine (can sound nice if you like that sort) rather than a v twin that most bigger engine snobs will gawp at. Will be easier to muscle around the yard/pub, cheaper to service and run. I wasn’t particularly into the nakeds or cruisers when I was younger too, but had a few nakeds now and a sensible cruiser going on roadster will probably be the next bike. an individual changes over time and that is fine, looks stupid when a middle aged man is fighting the gut/aged/bike problems that still think they are 20 and a sports bike is right as it is what they have always had before. so what I’d say is go and have a look and sit on one, see if it fits you fine.

First things first: bike then rider. ill guess this is a early r6, what year? RWU forks? an r6 was for bean poles or average young males back in the day not chunky middle aged ones now, so for a female it most likely will still be good if it’s had a good tlc life. I learned to drive first then 10years later I jumped from not knowing how to ride a bike to a 600cc 100hp in the space of a few weeks, wife went from timid and not knowing how ride or drive to getting on with a 125 cbt first time out with help and encouragement from me, 5 or so years later passed her car license first time. bike yes steering damper will slow and mask a basic geometry of the bikes design. Ohlins steering dampers are good to a point (depending on is internal setup), yet ohlins SD’s were very weak in durability and design for these parts, always have been, most changed them to other makes, Plus having to keep winding on of off to get to work best gets tiresome. their forks and shocks are much better, though less durable but replaceable/serviceable parts are better stocked than say Showa etc. its great that you understand spring rates, bikes they are very sensitive to geometry changes, compression and rebound far greater than cars, and unless you really get the trick suspension kits and use on track for a car but it’s difficult to know what your looking for with a bike. what setting is the bike on now and its service of the forks and shock? What’s been changed/modified? was the last owner a track goer med group, 90 kg, hardly any road? That set up will be totally different for your requirements. Or did he just had a fiddle with it and got lost and left it and just road it has it was and gotten used to it, just someone else will wonder if it’s broken or ill handling? How many pre load front rings or turns out? What rebound and possibly compression turns out if it’s a later one? rear pre load ramp setting or twin rings? What it at? what rebound and compression (turns or clicks if it has it at? when it’s cold and you push down very hard with the front brake on (make a visual not or the barley snugg zip tie trick) how far does it go down and when you let it return at its own will how does it behave? Does it slowly comes back or does it rush back bobs (count the bobs) at the top of the fork stroke? Then when the bike is hot or warm after a ride do the same again, does the return feel faster that it was cold or does it bob even more times than before? Similar to the rear, but can you lift the rear up a little bit from its normal position, so you’ve got some dead space Over a bump (not a pot hole) if the shocks return is too fast and tops out to easily, Other wise the rear will be smacking up you in the arse and makes the rear twitchy and gives the front aload of strain and weight biase and likes it twitchy again. What make and model of tyres are on it now and what pressures you run at? As TK mentioned that can have a great effect on its balance and handling. pressure is two things related- weight and forces, if your a 90kg rider and some kit, just average scenery riding will need to be higher pressure than a 60kg rider in town. So if your pressure is high for your weight, it will make to bike very responsive and crashy, if your intimidated by the bike because it’s too flightly you’ll never work it and the tyre to its capabilities and so the wear will be different/ could be worse but on the other end of the scale of visual wear patterns. remember if you add a 90kg dude in a car its relatively like adding a small tank bag of stuff for a bike. 1600kg car plus passenger 90kg Is under 5%. Weight is shared between four points with a large platform. 200kg bike plus a 5kg bag is 5%. Weight is shared between two points with a very narrow platform, has great yaw effects. Your weight with kit (roughly). Urban, motorway, rural, track, legal limits or well over? so yes r6 was never for new or timid riders as it was a spirited road bike at the time, but a modern one is far worse in that aspect. a little here and there tweak might be enough just to make it less intimidating till you get upto its level saving you paying twice or trice if it can be helped.

Its all to do with what you are happy to buy for the correct amount of money for its condition. some wouldn’t batter much of an eye lid over a scratch or ding while others would cry and be filled with rage at the atrocity. now a days theyre less metal and some are not a true tank in a sense, just a cover. They could add a few more to it in the mean time and just think well at least I didnt do the first one(s) or just replace it later on if they so wished.

It would be easier to see it. Im still a little confused as to why the bike has to go backwards because of the cars either side as you put it? Whats the set up there? If there are 4 spaces for 4 owners of the garage/apartments with the allocation of one vehicle per owner for example? your one of them, a bike is way smaller so way more space than allocated so plently of space, if one of them has two or more cars? tuff foolery they can leave the extra car somewhere else. Like that Jodie and id probably comply but to be blunt from the sounds of it her garage neighbours are arrogant a holes. to be honest they have no right or justification morally or otherwise to block access to the garage, if I was to make jab it would be because they can’t park, if they can’t park they can’t drive, they should give up driving. Which is why the Uk is full plebs with licenses. If I couldn’t get the a holes to not be cretins I would just put some simple removable posts within you area of the garage drive space so the fook wits couldn’t park in the space and block it, if they continued to do as such regardless (there are people that would do that) they would be open to a note of they’re error first time, then the second time- ohhh kids/vandals these days…..

I would question a few things with that pic. wtf is the faf person rather with a bottle bud on an oversized push rod metal ore on white walls and wearing a helmet size thT would make a mathematician envy? Oh hang on the American dream. Id love the thought of that but with the US thought a true one is impervious to all but the American winds, imitations are that and hypocrisy. I think we are, just most are not stupid, without true incentives enough to do. Ohhh ive seen that on YT, is that due to the equation of extra boob/moon drag , I think a Hyabusa might just be enough.

Why SD? Do you look like a pheasant or have you upset the locals?

Nice, enjoy. Must say there is load of difference between to manufacturers run in (bedding in) and fun run in, to fully running… doesn’t matter if it’s a bike or car it’s a ice engine. just that every engine has its switches of stages, there is more fun to come. there is a great difference to an engine set up over than just its a SB, naked or other engine.

Obviously you’re a marvel fanatic or play helldivers. nothing better than to try something yourself? while someone else is driving and nobody else is about, wear one, video yourself and stick out of the cars sunroof when it’s doing 70mph. I think you’ll figure it out.

For me I’d still sTay away from them for a few more models years later for them to improve if this was to be your only bike. yes some parts are shared or sourced by third party. My actual experience with this type of bike (benelli) was certainly poorer. the parts and build quality, frames, paints, electrical loom, metals , lights (You could tell which came from where). worst I’ve had over very used jap, Brit or Italian bike previously. I know the ex dealer and workers the bike came from didnt have a positive reply about them or the business practices. the good/better bits were the brakes brembo, forks and shock (moc &Sachs), it sounded nice but it was on its second and showing need for a third exhaust during my tenure. Fuel economy was very good but very snatchy at times. Not all engines are under license, and the few that are are not usually the same as the ecu and software will be different or generic.

The lights are led and maintenance free. its a priority plug and cable fitment with the plug and cable housing for all lights at the rear, both pos and neg….bit like an easy track/race delete system harness. so yes there is one cable but its all there for you to splice or extend the cable. wire 14 is what your looking for primarily but look to see if 13 is there aswell.

Agree with all. it s not guilt but knowing and having responsibilities make you look out for more things that might get you… agree with training program. the car makes you lazy and the camera and AI ones are worse for degradation. Continuing self training for visual references and dangers even if your in the car will keep you sharp. youll calm down and filter the info subconsciously on the bike. for some It might be a thing where you rate conditions in your head, cars on the wrong side of the road/pulling out might be a 8 yet one’s are infront might be a 3 but if the are old or young it’s a 5, 6 if it’s a Peugeot, a bird or a cyclist might be a 2. There is an augment of If your looking at a single thing for more than say a second and a half while travelling it’s fixation as your not looking far enough or at other objects. id use your focal point for reading the road ahead (its horizon) while get used to using your peripheral vision to filter less important stuff.

Yes the chain is starting to show signs for replacement soon. depending on the age, wear and material (steel)to the chain, the sprockets might go again if you was being a mega cheap bast*rd, As sprockets are cheap id would replace as default regardless. Normal steel ones are good enough.

Well at the moment is there really a need and a rush to do it? You’ve just paid for a tyre. Do the studs look like they are going to fail? Is the exhaust going to fail for the next year? if no then don’t bother just think about it next year And save up for if it based does need more work, if not then great that money will go towards a rear tyre. In the meantime between rides you could try to clean the corrosion and soak the studs and protect them yourself from further damage until you really want/have to.

One aspect of their continued rudeness and inconsideration, is if they block the access to the garages which you have right to get too, so any damages in polite manner is on them for not allowing access and space as it is a shared space? The hornets weren’t the lightest bikes of there type in that era Im sort of getting the idea of the set up but I think your inexperience of not using the bikes advantages, Physics is easily overlooked. as fliddles sort of touched on: You can do the dealership spin bike round on a ten pence with virtually no strength : use the side stand, stand to the left of the seat, lock the steering, gently pull the far bar and the other hand the rear grab rail towards you using your body as to prop or pole to lean against, doesn’t need much just a few inches just so the tyre(s) are less weighted or off the ground abit because they are your contact/friction points,then it will spin on the centre pole (the side stand) when you move around to the left or right. So at first your trying to move a large brick with loads of contact and spreaded out weight which is more difficult to move when it’s layed down much like a bike, if you was to put the brick on its one corner edge you can spin it easily, which will be what you’ll be doing. the other is why not just use the motor sat on or standing by its side to drive the bike up, then if your worried of it getting away from you you can turn the bike off and leave in gear, just use the clutch to modulate how much the bike moves and any given moment without having to worry about the brake