RideWithStyles

Yea I read it as there quoted useable range in whole , real world will be a lot less. not enough for what they pigeonhole hole it for its uses to me. get the idea of the drive train and great for it. I see most if not all electric bikes at the moment still in their infancy, cars have gotten a lot better in recent years. Just wonder when bikes will begetting their milestone.

Tyres are fine, youve just bought the wrong tyres for what your expecting or wants. rossos are sporty road tyres with the 4000mi expectation and other aspects that come with it, angels are more touring based so up to 8000 or more is more like it.

Hello Joe85 m, where u been? We thought you’ve been banged up for being naughty on your “too fast for anything” bike?

Yea like a safety chain for jewellery seeming as its a single and will vibrate the shite out of everything or on jumps?

Unfortunately youve just worked out the trap that you thought you could have avoided you just fell in and gonna potentially get burned. Buy once pay twice , or more as often is the case with these type of bikes. Yes pictures or vids help. could be just needs tighten ing and lock tight, some washers adding, or a complete new part of bolt/nut? they stripped the tread? Maybe its had a little fall? depending on what’s gone wrong you might be luckly and adjust a generic one to fit your bike?

Depending on the helmet manufacturer/supplier you could of got a smaller size skull cap and cheek pad interior to fill it out. some adhesives can attack the eps interior of the helmet shell.

Pipe doesn’t always, As like with any modifications they are only as good to what was poor as std/what was on before hand? there are generally positives and minus with everything, you just need to work out what your prepared to potentially “gain” from the “losses”. a modern std bike can change its maps- to a small degree point, but how much is down to the software and hardware that was put into it by the manufacturer of what they thought is enough. you have changed quite enough of the bike, probably more than the manufacturer would account for as a std variable between bikes, degradation and region use cases. each item you’ve added moves this point one way or the other including up or down…..which has implications. I would advise a remap, if you find a generic one with roughly your mods accounted for might be enough but as like with many things…where is you bike as is on its base map now? Does the new generic one move these sweet points in the correct direction? was it done correctly and do you trust it? So that them means a finding a trusted remapper to find. the popping and banging is from the fuel leaving the chamber and igniting in the exhaust- depending if it’s in the manifold, link, cat or exhaust. Fun for shits and giggles but not ideal for the engine, exhaust and your fuel economy mid to long term

Any local upholster could do it, refoam with thicker or better quality and shaped if they really want to push the boat out, pvc is better (unless it that Chinese shite) than leather.

Yes , too many biometric dimension possibilities and not enough variety/big market to make it easier for women…

Thats how I do it too, far easier. i don’t blame Stu , there are other ways/options to do it and they are in the menu/corner you just need to be bothered to see them.

Yep same deal of like dogs but make me too poorly for days on end afterwards no matter how many antihistamine and alcohol consumed, all the while that beast is the lesser of other potential evils…. good tyres are never awaste, vastly over kill or in this case priced is a different matter. Happy touring.

You’ll need power to supply. over husoi suggestion this the Battery fitted (correct size/power) with the correct polarity? Fitted tightly enough? Blown a fuse or two?

Thread locker will work a dream, Also heavier bar end weights help a lot.

Off memory it does but you might need to press something else like menu first so it know you want to interact with it rather than accidentally.

Its the placement of the pins as they are an eccentric cam lobe as to speak. So you’ve probably got the lobes high point outwards towards the visors fitting so it’s loose, idea is like double glazing, to seal it all the way around no air gets inbetween and it’s insulated while the plastic absorbs and distribution of moisture. rather than inwards towards the centre so it’s pushes the insert inwards to the centre (sharper radius) and against the inner skin of the visor itself. Do it while the visor is out, slowly breathe hot air onto the edges or some will raise it above a hot cup of water to see if its set correctly, if correct try again while the visor is mounted to the helmet , because could make the visor radius more or less depending on the the helmet size and it’s fitting when mounted.

Bolts secure versions are easier to install/take out but are more likely to disappear when you don’t expect it. the internal cur ring types are more secure but not quite as convenient. most designs don’t really allow much room so are a git to get on and even worse to get off, especially if flies off into your face or far away somewhere.

Dont know not all. cbf125 was always hitting the soft limiter far too easily at around 60 even on the flat which was frustrating when it felt it could pull more and nothing left for down hills. so we went one tooth up at the front, which did knock a tiny bit out the “mid range” but was a thou and a half short to allow the descend.

taking up two parking spaces and the disco parking ontop of the banking? Terrible habits

Dont think my local halfords will have a torque wrench and socket that fits? I wonder if the Sod’s Law of the ratio to how many fused bolts are the same as to bikes and cars etc? do you make bets on how many before hand?

I’ve gotten a couple of years out of my shoei visor and insert. Tends to be fine insert scratches even with silicone bead but not too many scratches/chips on the outside to make it noticeable if your near sighted. First time I’ve lost a pin on a ride out was with the shoei it was when a tinted visor didn’t have the insert in, made it noisey. while I’d get a little longer out of the arai and hjcs Before them, but the outside is often battered with scratches and chips like it’s been shotgunned. That effect or build up makes Winter and night time riding more difficult.

Im sure it’s Longer than 90 secs and that is with a vice to hold the link(s), new expensive industrial high powered mains grinder with many diamond and alternative coating discs they are tested to. Most scum will have a more portable and battery operated at best, which slows it down. it goes as buy as appropriate or you willing to risk. anything and as much as possible you can do/put on is a higher chance of them making noise (drawing attention) and time (to stall or tackle ) is their enemy. if they want it and prepared to risk it for what it’s worth they will have owt including needing to “blow the bloody doors off” to get it.

Starter motor or its wiring id check first.

Really depends on the visor quality and make after owning many (of visor and helmet style I find). shoeis are the least ridged preference of flex of the makes/design while hjc are far more solid, Even to a point aftermarket’s from reputable sallers. even the pins themselves can have a different lifespan depending on the visor and its contour. this means that the pinlock (pin and insert) will get far more wear/vibrations etc than the hjc’s. But the fit requires regular tuning with the hjc as it has to have the correct tension to hold the best shape/contour to the visor (also depending on the season /temp) where as the soft visor you can set the insert to reasonably tight and it will have more give… so soft fit once and forget while with the harder type you have to reset more often. the different plastics polycarbonate or lexans require different treatments and approach to get the best refresh (or use case) with them.

I agree some do and make assumptions, the rules have been weighted towards higher risk users, apart from us motoring two wheelers as we get ignored again. I think the HW code / police officer would favour the cyclists in that scenario. So is it a long stretch through the road works/to the junction that the peddle boys were going to use? obviously if it’s a stretch and timed too tight, time won’t allow for pedal crew to meander around and block the road by themselves or due to the vehicles (van and cars) already committed following on the timed allowance to pass through the lights? At a guess. was there a path the liquorice crew could of used as last choice option?

Certainly weighs less than most “worth while” disc locks and less than the “tool kit” that bikes come with under the seat thats either forgotten about or escaped. i know robbers! Go all the way to anodised it orange, mill KTMs logo into the body but still get some nasty 10p carabiner and a pezzy roadlok key ring.