RideWithStyles

Father in law selling a job lot of used Hynes manuals cheap. PM if interested.

their position sounds very clear and doesnt favour you going anywhere further, dump you there and thats that, no place in the lads group for you. all youve done is look out for yourself as an individual, progress in career and hopefully better contract? nothing wrong with that and maybe as mentioned before- push a blinder of better pay etc or face the possibility you can go somewhere else and even better if its to a "rival", they cant fire you just for looking and talking with new employment as long as its not in works time, especially as they havenot allowed progress. even if you dont go it keeps them on their toes, sweeten to keep you or potentially leave a hole. it doesn't surprise me if the rival muppet worker/company did it on purpose as ive heard it done before: test, bait, flush out of the comfort bunker, and change the details when no fall back. maybe im doing them a disservice? . you know your current employer view of you and job role you belong too, obviously you don't want to sit in it. shame you cancelled it but i understand why though...

the kit you have has large croc connectors only, i bought the same about 20+ years ago by the same brand for a car and other things. you can use pretty much any connector style to the battery you want but youll have to cut and solder the male version connector onto the cable coming from the charger.

and its the worst car you have the look of that triggers/gas lights, like a nissan juke.

Hello and welcome Sean! nothing wrong with the choice of bike and you didnt get a chinese bike (even modern ones are terrible) . been up and down capacity and technology over years, currently on a late carb bike again (suzuki gsf650s). dont be down hearted on carbs, when its clean and set up the fuelling will be so smooth and brilliant that only the very best and expensive modern FI systems can match at great cost. the only faff is the "choke" but you get used to that. FI have to get around ever tighter emissions bs, if the closed loop circuit design isnt done exemplary which is difficult and leads to jerky throttle when opening at low revs which carbs shouldn't suffer from. the other thing which the bike might run on E10, but with its age of its rubber components "an advice" would be gentler on rubbers to run it or if your gonna leave it in for long durations with E5, unless youve got a future plan on changing the rubbers that the fuel will be in contact with as a maintenance thing while in your care? there are a few members on here that are quite electric minded if its really troublesome. other basics are the ignition barrel, ignition & side stand switch, fuses, relays, battery terminals, electrical points and ground wires. check over and narrow it down for us all for further help.

pictures would help. so it it stains from as Stu says or is it wearing spots (boots rubbing) the honda cbr and fireblades had it with earlish generations with thin suspectablw paint/lacquer. you can polish it right back past the blemishes and repaint/lacquer but its quite a delicate, time and material consuming process. the other is to acid dip it and start again but is a specialist's job.

no pics either... if they pay me £400 to take it off their hands...lol. maybe were being cynical and harsh?

some old ones shrink and crack as they loose oils and harden up.

Nice! some local motorbike schools (tutoring) do them, one near me used to do them while i was there.

just to add: slightly worn suspension bushes for about 5 years and lack of damping of the shock for one year, year 2022 24 thou and 2024 25 thou - ive never seen a mot state these before: Rear Brake pad(s) incorrectly mounted (1.1.13 (c)) Handlebar so insecure it is likely to become detached (2.2.1 (b) (ii). so well maintained?

....

poor tink... heart goes out to you! we all try to help the less inform with as little help from said little information new member single posters) at times of frustration that is totally lost on those that have no idea that different techs from eras and manufacturers are different. people that help for free with no benefit to them when asked for help with no or little help but then degrade. go either use the internets mixed bag of shiterry to filter through or a pay garage in the hope that know something for a fix at a price. only other piece of info ill say its as you say its a gravity feed or as a more modern term a "vacuum pump" not a electrical pump hence whay you here FOOK all when "priming", hence why phil has only known the noise..that all some have ever known is a electrical pump. if the diaphragm or pipes are degraded that can have great impact on fuel input. i leave it as that.

directly contradicts, question has been asked and its been answered. suspension is a word used as the additive is held in the oil! not suspension fluid which is a different matter with different oils and totality different additives which i would have directly implied if we was talking about suspension but we are not. fuel, engine 2strk and 4strk are very different beasts, suspension oils are very different products for different reasons and specs. i have shared information but will not talk any more onthe matter as opinion is very much masking the issue and will no longer be of benefit.

its a oxford products battery charger connector.

great your learning, thats what makes a difference. good luck.

No alarm or immobilisation fitted to it? if your assured the true firing electrics are sound then the only other are fuel or safety/sensors that are telling it not to.

maybe the off roaders are different or maybe they change fitment at some point in time or for different regions? many possibilities.

yep its rough but if you didnt see them before you committed to set off in the possibility of the real world (which has far more possibilities to get you), the road has more than just you and pretty much every other road user will screw you over at any opportunity. well just to think on a positive side: you didnt make contact but you must learn from it as next time you might have a bike/car hysterectomy....that is a life lesson youve just experienced as next time you might not get another chance.

yep its how you drive, not what you drive

not wishing to add fuel to the fire but at my work place with two chemists (as close youll get to very specific tribologist) i work closely with like to remind colleagues, additives in stock based suspension can and will degrade even with perfect storage conditions even prior to customer service (solvent, water and oil based are not immune) not including in storage for mid tier process before any or each process to have a knock on impact before customer applications with low or no storage time (corporate and public), so adding any additional variables adds up. So to ask, how old was the oil prior to buying, was it sat in a warm humid area? was it questionable storage prior and after sell, how well sealed was it?(air,water/moisture,light/uv,heat/cold?), what additives are in there and how much? what was each purpose? which gets effected by what? and how long is its life serving? did it go through service cycles before hand? (heat,light,moisture, vibration etc), how well insulated was it really while in the bikes tank? two years wof winter and summers in a shed... additive compounds are very tiny though not as much as what suspense them so their molecular structure are more likely to be broken down that solely benefits them and you wont be able to see it just by looking at it with the MK1eyeball, its a bit like food the more you add for benefits the more it needs care and stability but we're getting way a head of our selfs. there is even the argument of to pre fill an oil filter or not...... two stokes are fragile at best so to cheap out on something essential and cheap... safe advice would be to just change it for fresh. if the user doesn't fine do it fine, you choose it as what risk you're prepared to make, from non (engine didnt go pop), little (maybe there are small wear on the inside), mid (very evident on a full strip) or high (close time lap in the failure) due to a variable being the individual unit specs, service, history, individual circumstances. not being argumentative as i don't benefit from it, just putting it forward for others to make their mind up with facts.

sorry but asking is the football manager? . fallout i know of , tried it- cant remember which one but reasonably newish? wanted to like like it but something about it just didn't mesh with me... hope you enjoy it!

im with you on that Mawsley! i had a fiat panda 0.8 85bhp 4x4...with penguins on the sides thats how serious i was while i overtake mofos in their 4x4 especially snow, so much finng fun .

my one pennies worth, its all in the fit first and foremost! i like the look of tcx and rsts but they dont fit me or the wife, they're too narrow and thin particularly for me, i have frog feet . the sidis just fit us both really well and last for ages (my sidis vertigos i think?) are 15 years old, 5 bikes and well over 50plus thous miles old and still going and the day i HAVE to replace them ill be upset...the wifes ones are newer at 5years old (with less care and attention then me) were wearing 5 times longer than others she had and they werent cheap like the alpinestars....

Landrovers/Range rovers nothing more to be said... not sure about that generally if im being picky as with the brands reputation old or new but the old hall (and yours must be a peach of a breed) certainly has less tarty unnecessary crap to mark or care for. Now just to clarify ive had more bangeromics (i do see charm or lemoness ) than new plastic fantastics so i see both sides...