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Cracked my sump


Westbeef
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oh beefy....


to file under WELL IT'S TOO BLOODY LATE NOW anything under 70nm you can just tighten by hand and it'll probably be fine :lol:

 

Well I'm just a top notch moron :mrgreen:

You're not at all.. We all f**k up at one point or another! :lol:


Only yesterday I dropped the fecking battery bolt down into my bike while trying to fit new optimate leads :roll: Ended up having to go to the local Tesco to buy one of those extendable "magnet on a stick" thingies just to try and get the wee git out!

We all have off days, it's how we learn..


Hope this gets fixed soon and just chalk it up to experience x

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Only yesterday I dropped the fecking battery bolt down into my bike while trying to fit new optimate leads :roll: Ended up having to go to the local Tesco to buy one of those extendable "magnet on a stick" thingies just to try and get the wee git out!

We all have off days, it's how we learn..


Hope this gets fixed soon and just chalk it up to experience x

I did the battery bolt just one just last week, only I was by the side of the road and there no option but to try to grab hold of it: the 3rd and 4th finger tips did the job in the end. What was nice that some random AA man who was passing stopped and asked me if I needed help.

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I dropped a fairing screw into my old thundercat when changing the screen. Never found where that one went and no amount of magnetic wand retrieved. I assume it fell out while riding in the end or it is still lodged in there.


I also over tightened the clamp for a link pipe once. First I knew the clamp went ping....

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We have all done stupid shit!


My list is too long to mention!


I have cracked a sump only a lot worse than yours I have also dropped a battery bolt and trying to get it out caused the bike to lay against a house trapping me between it :oops:

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We have all done stupid shit!


My list is too long to mention!


I have cracked a sump only a lot worse than yours I have also dropped a battery bolt and trying to get it out caused the bike to lay against a house trapping me between it :oops:

 

Well it does make me feel better, I'm sure you can laugh about it now :).


I shit myself when I checked it tonight - it had lost some oil as I expected but there was lots what I thought was oil around my new gasket. I thought I'd cocked that up some how until I realised I layered the ACF50 on thick :mrgreen:

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Don't use chemical metal. It doesn't withstand the temperature needed on engine repairs. It's also not as strong as;


JB Weld. Use that.


Once you've put some on and sanded it down, it will be a permanent repair. Drain the oil overnight before attempting. It takes 24hrs to set properly.

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Shit!


its not the end of the world though


you could get the crack welded and drill and tap the sump and fit a larger bolt

 

Can I JB weld that valve Mr Fro mentioned in place? I can still screw the plug in and it grips, it's obviously just shit with just a plug in.

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there's no fixing that beefy the ONLY THING you can do is get your DAS and buy an R6

 

I know, I told my dad I wanna sell it and fund my DAS but I don't have the heart to pass this problem on to some poor learner. I'm gonna fix it up (probably a bodge) and keep saving for the DAS :mrgreen:.


I'm gonna try RTV sealing a plug in to keep me going for now and check to see if it works its way loose. I'm still going to JBweld the crack up on the outside at least.

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right, so lets talk about the best way to bodge it with JB weld...


If it was me i would drill a small hole down the crack so i could pump the JBweld into clean metal and hope it oozed into both sides of the crack.

Once thats set, i would grind a small V in the outside of the crack, fill that with JB weld and grind it back so its flush.

Then JBWed the new oil drain plug into place - job done..

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right, so lets talk about the best way to bodge it with JB weld...


If it was me i would drill a small hole down the crack so i could pump the JBweld into clean metal and hope it oozed into both sides of the crack.

Once thats set, i would grind a small V in the outside of the crack, fill that with JB weld and grind it back so its flush.

Then JBWed the new oil drain plug into place - job done..

It is thin cast aluminuim ..if you keep playing with it especially with grinders it will just crumble and you are screwed . If its that bad now get a professional to weld and insert a helicoil.

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Yep, need to be careful, but slapping JB weld on the outside of the crack won't achieve much and will likely crack off with temperature changes.

Since we're talking bodge jobs, loads of JB weld inside to bond the drain plug would do it.

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+1 pay a professional to sort it if it's that bad. Don't tempt fate twice, Beefy :shock:

Try your hand at tig welding. Its easy enough :wink:

Have you met Beefy?

http://themotorbikeforum.co.uk/download/file.php?id=14476


Or me, for that matter?

http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/download/file.php?id=10964

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On to a more realistic approach, if you talented enough, short of having it TIG welded you can go for the Lumiweld option. Unlike the other 'chemical' ideas Lumiweld is an aluminium solder that looks like the parent metal and is brilliant for the likes of trials bike crank cases. It's a low heat repair and very successful. Failing that and using adhesive repair pastes I've found no matter how clean and chemically washed the crack is, it will continue to seep as oil products find cracks like water always finds the lowest levels

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Ok so im gonna get a fitting made at work to take a standard plug that screws into the sump. Im gonna seal it in with JB weld like I was going to with the drain valve. Its cheap but essentially the same idea.

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