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The English term for Simmerring / Gabeldichtringe?


hashamyim
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Hey there,

So I am a newbie to motorbike riding and have bought myself a Honda CBF1000 - yippee!

Unfortunately, in order to pass the German MOT test (TÜV), I apparently need to have the 'Simmerring', also sometimes known as 'Gabeldichtringe' replaced.

I am trying to find out what the English term for this is and am coming across a bit of a stoppage. Was wondering if anyone here might be able to tell what is going on from the following information.

This website (in German) tells you how to replace the 'Simmerringe': https://cdn3.louis.de/content/cms/3414/3020/8968/tipp16-s56-57-gabeldichtringe.pdf

The dictionary describes it as: shaft seal, oil seal, lock ring, retaining ring, rotary shaft seal...

I would really like to start learning how to maintain my own bike and have bought a book, but none of these terms appear in it.

Does anyone have any recommendations as to what I need to be looking at?

Sorry for what is undoubtedly a school-boy question...!

Regards,

Hashamyim

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Gabeldichtringe according to google is fork seals, quite an easy job with basic tools. Be care full about getting the old ones out, dont just use a screwdriver and just oink them out, do it a little at a time each side of the fork leg.

When installing the new ones use a big socket that will fit inside the fork leg where the seal sits and tap the seal home gently.

Refill with correct amount of oil. Do one leg at a time that way you have a reference as to what goes where.

Not sure what oil you are supposed to use but we always used ATF (automatic Transmission fluid) it puts up with a lot more than ordinary oil and give a nice ride. Ordinary oil get clapped out real quick in forks.

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Yes it means shaft seal and it is not necessary fork seal,

Shaft seal, also called Oil Seal, in machinery, a device that prevents the passage of fluids along a rotating shaft. Seals are necessary when a shaft extends from a housing (enclosure) containing oil, such as a pump or a gear box.


But in your case most probably is about forks

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Unique thread this

 

Calm down mate - it's about fork seals. You're just getting bored as you're waiting outside XRay.

 

Oh I wasn't complaining! Any content is good for me. I'll update my x-ray injury thread now.

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Gabeldichtringe according to google is fork seals, quite an easy job with basic tools. Be care full about getting the old ones out, dont just use a screwdriver and just oink them out, do it a little at a time each side of the fork leg.

When installing the new ones use a big socket that will fit inside the fork leg where the seal sits and tap the seal home gently.

Refill with correct amount of oil. Do one leg at a time that way you have a reference as to what goes where.

Not sure what oil you are supposed to use but we always used ATF (automatic Transmission fluid) it puts up with a lot more than ordinary oil and give a nice ride. Ordinary oil get clapped out real quick in forks.

 

I feel compelled to say that is a bit of a over simplified description of changing fork seals . You have to separate the stanchions from the lowers ( sliders ) first .There is often the issue of preventing the cartridge from revolving when the external bolt is removed. Then there are the bushes to inspect / replace according to their condition . Tapping in the new seals can often be done by using the old ones as a tool providing that you didn't mutilate them getting them out . Probably best to refer to the manual if this is s job never before attempted.

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Never used a tool for removing the old seals, they did not exist on my day. Fork seal and replacement along with bushes is a relatively easy jobs with pretty basic tools, it's not like changing mains and big ends bearings.

Yes dropping the legs from the tubes can be awkward but not impossible. It should also be mention for tube inspection for stone damage, this will more than likely damage the new seals if the damage is on a section that enters the fork leg.

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  • 4 weeks later...

A lot of people seem to be oversimplifying this IMO, especially if OP hasn't attempted forks seals before. I've written out a rough guide below, please quote/add information where you think I've missed something and I'll edit my post....


- Before you do anything, loosen all the relevant bolts on the forks/calipers - just enough to loosen so that you don't take a fork leg off then find it's impossible to torque a bolt. For me, this meant loosening the axle pinch bolt, axle, caliper mount bolts, mudguard, dont forget the fork caps etc. They just need to be 'cracked' open and slightly tightened again so you can remove them easily when they the bike. Get the bike up on a stand so that you have the front wheel off the ground. At this point, I usually use a trolley jack to support the bike just under the front of the engine, but depending on your bike that might not be possible - alternative is to strap the handlebars to something above like a roof truss etc. Now you're ready to work.

- Remove the front wheel completely including the calipers/mudguard and anything attached to your forks. Screw your preload all the way down which puts the most pressure possible on the damper rod bolts so it's easier to 'crack' them and nip up again. Undo the triple clamp bolts enough to let the fork leg slide out.

- Back off all the preload tension now that you've loosened the damper rod bolt. Unscrew the fork cap (keeping a tight grip on it) and carefully drain out the the oil and catch the internals in the same container. Pump the fork a few times to make sure it's empty, remove the damper rod bolt and the damper rod can be released from the fork. Clean and inspect all the internals before reassembly.

- With all the guts out, you can pry up the dust seal with a screwdriver (careful not to scratch the stanchion), remove the compression ring over the oil seal - there will be some spacers/bushings that may need replacing. Remove oil seal and then install new seals - you can use a socket large enough to go over the stanchion, but small enough to fit inside the lower portion of the leg, but I find nothing beats a fork seal driver.

- When re-filling the fork oil, fill it a bit at at time and pump the fork to force oil past the damper and get all the air out of the bottom of the fork.

- I usually leave 5-6" clear air at the top of the fork when refilling, but that'll be dependent on your bike. Once the oil is in, re-assemble the guts in order and extend the fork slider fully before compressing the spring etc with the fork cap and hand tighten the cap.

- Reassemble in reverse order and torque all of the bolts from top to bottom as you go. It helps to tighten the triple clamp bolts in order on both sides - i.e. top R, mid R, bot R then top L, mid L, bot L and repeat as the bolts can loosen as you tighten their neighbour.


All based on my V-strom, other bikes will have their own wee variations.

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Gabeldichtringe according to google is fork seals, quite an easy job with basic tools. Be care full about getting the old ones out, dont just use a screwdriver and just oink them out, do it a little at a time each side of the fork leg.

When installing the new ones use a big socket that will fit inside the fork leg where the seal sits and tap the seal home gently.

Refill with correct amount of oil. Do one leg at a time that way you have a reference as to what goes where.

Not sure what oil you are supposed to use but we always used ATF (automatic Transmission fluid) it puts up with a lot more than ordinary oil and give a nice ride. Ordinary oil get clapped out real quick in forks.

 

.

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