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Cbf1000 charging problems


Beans
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The cbf1000 isn't charging. Again.

I've been looking at the reg rec and stator with a multimeter. First thing I thought was stator as the biffer is notorious for it.


Test 1

Charged battery overnight. Measured voltage at battery. Started bike, rode around for 20 minutes at high revs. Measured voltage at battery again, below 12v.


Test 2 ALTERNATOR CHARGING COIL INSPECTION

• It is not necessary to remove the stator coil to make this test.

Remove the following:

– Left side cover (page 3-4)

– Left rear cowl (page 3-8)

Remove the wire band and disconnect the alternator 3P (White) connector.

Check the resistance between three Yellow terminals of the alternator side connector.

STANDARD: 0.1 – 1.0 Ω (at 20°C/68°F)

Check for continuity between each terminal and ground.

There should be no continuity.

If resistance is out of specification, or if any wire has continuity to ground, replace the alternator stator.


This test passed all values were consistent.


Test 3 Regulator rectifier harness

Green wire: Grounds the system to the frame (may have two wires). Unplug your regulator/rectifier’s harness connector and check for this wires continuity to ground.


• Set your meter to Ohms/resistance (Ω).


• Place one lead on the wire and the other lead to a solid ground.


*Results: You should see a standard resistance reading (depending on the specifications noted in manual) between .001 Ω up to .9 Ω. Typically a standard circuit wire has at least .01 Ω of resistance. If you discover that you have and open (no numeric value) or a excessively high reading. Check the harness for breaks, rusty corroded frame ground, or loose connections (battery terminals included)


Display of multimeter goes off. Suggests that this reading isn't right.

Now what

?

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Check the lettering on the tank!!!


This normally finds that its a honda and the reg/rec is probably fried as usual :lol: :lol: :lol:


Seriously


Forget resistance tests first of all as they can show a good reg/rec when its dead once warmed up!


Check the output from the generator/alternator/stator whatever you want to call it


Then plug it in to the reg/rec and check the output at the wiring closest to the reg/rec


If this fails to give the answer then dig deeper in to resistance/continuity checks

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I wish I had not bought it

Check the output from the generator/alternator/stator whatever you want to call it

How? Engine running, stick multimeter in alternator harness and rev it?

 

Then plug it in to the reg/rec and check the output at the wiring closest to the reg/rec

How?

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I wish I had not bought it

Check the output from the generator/alternator/stator whatever you want to call it

How? Engine running, stick multimeter in alternator harness and rev it?

 

 

Step 1. Set the multimeter to AC volts.


Step 2. With the ignition off, measure between the coils/phases by connecting the multimeter's leads to the three terminals in the stator's electrical connector. Measure between phases 1 and 2; between 2 and 3; and between 1 and 3. There should be no reading between the terminals.


Step 3. With the ignition on and the engine running, measure between the coils/phases by connecting the multimeter's leads to the three terminals in the stator's electrical connector. Measure between phases 1 and 2; between 2 and 3; and between 1 and 3. There should be a positive reading between the terminals.


Step 4. With the ignition on and increasing the engine's RPM, measure between the coils/phases by connecting the multimeter's leads to the three terminals in the stator's electrical connector. Measure between phases 1 and 2; between 2 and 3; and between 1 and 3. The reading between the terminals should increase as the RPM increases.


If the voltage readings don't change from when the ignition was off to when the engine was running, the stator is faulty and will need to be replaced. Watch the video above to see the full process of how to do a dynamic stator test.

 

Then plug it in to the reg/rec and check the output at the wiring closest to the reg/rec

How?

 

there should be a connector where you can stick the multimeter in to attached to the reg/rec

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Check the lettering on the tank!!!


This normally finds that its a honda and the reg/rec is probably fried as usual :lol: :lol: :lol:


Seriously


Forget resistance tests first of all as they can show a good reg/rec when its dead once warmed up!


Check the output from the generator/alternator/stator whatever you want to call it


Then plug it in to the reg/rec and check the output at the wiring closest to the reg/rec


If this fails to give the answer then dig deeper in to resistance/continuity checks

 

When I was in the bike parts trade I remember that pattern Rec Regs ( Electrex ) for Honda's outsold those for other makes by a considerable margin especially those for CBR 's

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Check the lettering on the tank!!!


This normally finds that its a honda and the reg/rec is probably fried as usual :lol: :lol: :lol:


Seriously


Forget resistance tests first of all as they can show a good reg/rec when its dead once warmed up!


Check the output from the generator/alternator/stator whatever you want to call it


Then plug it in to the reg/rec and check the output at the wiring closest to the reg/rec


If this fails to give the answer then dig deeper in to resistance/continuity checks

 

When I was in the bike parts trade I remember that pattern Rec Regs ( Electrex ) for Honda's outsold those for other makes by a considerable margin especially those for CBR 's

 

Hi [mention]Beans[/mention] as [mention]Stu[/mention] already said if its a Honda then probably the rec/reg, in fact my Vfr's stopped working this weekend, but I must admit it's done over 60000 miles, and only the second one on bike at 95300 miles!

But as [mention]fastbob[/mention] said use the [Electrex] one, which has lasted 60000 miles and will be ordering new one today from them.

Bit more expensive than cheap Chinese rubbish but last a lot longer, have brought stators also from them for Vfr400 nc30's and other stuff.

No faults with what they sell. Also check out there information about rec/reg and batteries!!

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Then plug it in to the reg/rec and check the output at the wiring closest to the reg/rec

How?

 

there should be a connector where you can stick the multimeter in to attached to the reg/rec

I don't understand this one [mention]Stu[/mention] if the reg rec is disconnected, the only thing I can test is continuity. There's no voltage going to it -it's disconnected

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Then plug it in to the reg/rec and check the output at the wiring closest to the reg/rec

How?

 

there should be a connector where you can stick the multimeter in to attached to the reg/rec

I don't understand this one @Stu if the reg rec is disconnected, the only thing I can test is continuity. There's no voltage going to it -it's disconnected

 

Is there only one plug on the reg/rec? some have one some have two


with it all connected up and the bike running you should be able to get the probe from multimeter in to the output side of the reg/rec to see what its putting out


Doing this eliminates all the wiring from the reg/rec to the battery

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  • 2 weeks later...

What a day. Must have taken me 6 or 7 hours to change the stator and do an oil change.

Some parts I ordered from fleabay last week still hadn't turned up, so a trip to halfords was necessary (if you are in perkbox at work you get 10% off at halfords)

I cannot get the oil filter off, it's a k&n with a nut on the top and that's well and truly rounded off. So had to just do a change of oil. Got the drain bolt off, no washer. Fished in the old oil, still no washer. Back to halfrauds.

Alternator finally fitted, come to connect it up, the bloody connector isn't right. So had to hack it off and splice the wires. Putting the rear of the bike back in the dark was grim.

But hey, yesterday I had never changed the oil or a stator at all so it's good experience.

Piccy attached of the lousy stator that I replaced today. Thank you for the advice and assistance

198756685_20200124_2159512.thumb.jpg.2254523f89c7a535ba857ed0a5deafcc.jpg

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When I did the stator on my old fireblade I leant the bike on it's side on something soft and you can take the cover off without losing any oil if you don't want to do an oil change. I also made a gasket out of a cereal box as I forgot I needed one when I did the job. Worked fine and never leaked.

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What a day. Must have taken me 6 or 7 hours to change the stator and do an oil change.

Some parts I ordered from fleabay last week still hadn't turned up, so a trip to halfords was necessary (if you are in perkbox at work you get 10% off at halfords)

I cannot get the oil filter off, it's a k&n with a nut on the top and that's well and truly rounded off. So had to just do a change of oil. Got the drain bolt off, no washer. Fished in the old oil, still no washer. Back to halfrauds.

Alternator finally fitted, come to connect it up, the bloody connector isn't right. So had to hack it off and splice the wires. Putting the rear of the bike back in the dark was grim.

But hey, yesterday I had never changed the oil or a stator at all so it's good experience.

Piccy attached of the lousy stator that I replaced today. Thank you for the advice and assistance

just do what most car mechanics do with the oil filter just stick a big screwdriver through the filter and unwind it that way :thumb: and dont wind it up as tight next time :wink:
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