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Lacquering to a high shine.


Slowlycatchymonkey
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I’ve now watched so many YouTube tutorials and read so much stuff I should be an expert but instead I’ve read so much I’m not sure how to proceed. 
 

If you want to lacquer something to a high gloss finish then my understanding is you need to apply it in thin layers and sand inbetween coats but no-one is specific about how this is done so if there’s anyone with any experience I’d appreciate hearing from you. 

What I’ve generally garnered is “do a double coat, let it dry and sand it gently before applying the next double coat.”
 

What is a double coat? Two coatings approx 15mins apart? and how long would you leave this to dry before sanding and doing the next double coat? and what grade sandpaper or sandpaper’s are needed? Roughly how many double coats will be needed? and is any of that right anyway?!

 

Help!

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what you painting ? large areas prob wont go well... bit of fairy liquid in with some water, 1200 paper lightly flatten after few  of coats of laquer, then polish.

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10 hours ago, Six30 said:

what you painting ? large areas prob wont go well... bit of fairy liquid in with some water, 1200 paper lightly flatten after few  of coats of laquer, then polish.


Thanks. Motorcycle helmet. 
One vid suggests using a buffing compound n polish at the end?

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You can apply what they call wet on wet which is as you say let the coating flash off for fifteen minutes or so. I would only put two coats with the wet on wet method. Then wait 30 minutes and apply another and another 30 minutes after that. If you want a real deep gloss mirror finish then you will need about 8 to 10 coats. When the paint is totally dry/cured rub down with 1200g wet and dry and then with 1500g. The 1500g is important as your cutting compounds take over at 1500g. I would suggest Farecla cutting compound.

Edited by raesewell
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36 minutes ago, raesewell said:

You can apply what they call wet on wet which is as you say let the coating flash off for fifteen minutes or so. I would only put two coats with the wet on wet method. Then wait 30 minutes and apply another and another 30 minutes after that. If you want a real deep gloss mirror finish then you will need about 8 to 10 coats. When the paint is totally dry/cured rub down with 1200g wet and dry and then with 1500g. The 1500g is important as your cutting compounds take over at 1500g. I would suggest Farecla cutting compound.


Great stuff Thankyou. 
After the 8-10 coats how long should I leave it to harden before sanding? Some folk seem to say a week and some two weeks.

Do I build up all the layers and do one final sanding at the end or is there any sanding needed between layers?
Just checking this is the stuff? 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Farecla-AG3-700-Advanced-Liquid-Compound/dp/B003J10S36/ref=asc_df_B003J10S36/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309775958298&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11319805664891459722&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045656&hvtargid=pla-563996089864&psc=1

 

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I do the final flatting with 2500 grit and then do a few passes with G3 restoring compound on a cloth  followed by a wipe over with a good Carnauba wax . Although I'm no expert I've been delighted with the results . 

 

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1 hour ago, fastbob said:

I do the final flatting with 2500 grit and then do a few passes with G3 restoring compound on a cloth  followed by a wipe over with a good Carnauba wax . Although I'm no expert I've been delighted with the results . 

 


Thanks 👍

 

Do you use the 2500 grit wet or dry? 

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There is no need to go to 2500g if you are using cutting compound, the cutting compound takes over at 1500g

https://www.farecla.com/products/g3-regular-grade-paste-compound/

Then move on to a finer compound

https://www.farecla.com/products/g3-fine-finishing-compound/

 

The amount of time to leave it to dry/cure will depnd on the ambient temperature if it's warm a week would be fine this time of year with no heat two weeks would be good. Always use wet and dry, wet, a weak solution of washing liquid and change the water between grades so as not to cross contaminate.

 

 

Edited by raesewell
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I thought I’d leave it in the garage for a couple of days for the initial stink to disappear then move it into a spare room - so a week should be long enough then?

Basket so far, getting a bit pricey but I’m sure I’ll get plenty of use out of it. Any comments on its contents let me know. 

 

 

E0AB5D5D-2EBF-416C-BDC2-486DA96EF012.png

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1 hour ago, fredc said:

is it safe painting a helmet 

I’ve heard the solvents can weaken the plastic shell

 


Yes and no. 

You have to be certain the paints you are using are safe on plastic. Many are and some aren’t. Custom helmet painters appear to use a variety of paints eg One Shot, Montana, Molotov. Water based paints are fine and automotive paints are usually going to be compatible as they have to be able to spray bumpers and other car plastic.

I contacted the manufacturer of the lacquer I wanted to use to double check it was safe, the other paints state that they are ok.

Helmet manufacturers always say it’s a no no as they can’t guarantee shell integrity hasn’t been impaired by what you have done to it eg sanding or using the wrong paint. 

But this is my first go so what do I know?! I’ll report back at some point about how I ruined a perfectly good helmet 😂

Edited by Slowlycatchymonkey
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2 hours ago, fredc said:

is it safe painting a helmet 

I’ve heard the solvents can weaken the plastic shell

 

Ideally you will get a water based paint. These are now becoming widely available.

You will still a dedicated primer for any type of ABS or polycarbonate plastic type.

These have adhesion promoting specs that will allow paint to be sprayed onto plastic.

You will find it in most car parts shops.

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