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Return to Furka pass


RobCB1300
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Just signed up from Ireland.

Been riding for around 25 years and now in early 60’s. 

Had my current CB1300 for around 15 years and clocked up 52k.

Bike is a keeper as it has never let me down and still looks great.

Done short trips all over Ireland, Scotland and Skye and last July the Brecon Beacons and Wales.

In 2009 and 2011 a friend and I did two European trips. 
2009 Ireland to London, Chanel tunnel to Strasbourg, down Routes des grand alps through Jausiers and Col de la Bonette to Nice, to Monte Carlo then returned through central France to Calais, tunnel then to Holyhead then home to Ireland (10 days and estimated 3.5 to 4k miles) a serious first long trip.

Caught the bug bad and two years later headed to Switzerland from Ireland to Cherbourg ,two days across France to Nantua, to Montreux then to Andermatt for 3 days and got to ride Furka, Grimsel, Susten , Oberalp passes. Then to Bormio and the Stelio pass. Italian motorways over to Val D’Isere and Col D’Iseran then two days back across France to Cherbourg and home.

so now 12 years later I’d like to try the trip back to Andermatt and the famous passes again but this time solo.

will be going again on the CB1300.

Hoping for some genuine chat and advice on routes and accommodation as a lot could have changed since I was last on the Continent.

I’m hoping moderators are happy to let an old timer in to share information and advice.

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I find Switzerland wildly unexciting. Passed through that country while Covid was in full swing after staying the night in Liechtenstein as that was one of the few countries the UK government allowed at that time. Plus Germany and Italy. (Bizarrely)

Due to all the laws and accompanying fines they have it’s a tedious place to visit. Speed cameras. Speed traps. And an awful lot of polizei with little to do aside from dusting their credit card machines it’s just not worth the hassle. It’s good that you have a GPS on order at least you can be sure you’re within the speed limit everywhere. Be very careful. And be sure you have the cash available if you do get caught out and that the bike is fully legal. There is no such thing as a minor misdemeanour there. Everything costs. Big. 
 

if you weren’t set on going there I would suggest you pass it by. Head for somewhere glorious. South if France. Or the Pyrenees/Picos or eastern Alps - Dolomites and Slovenia. Carinthia in Austria. Salzkammergut. What these areas lack in cheese and cowbells they make up for in a markedly reduced level of day to day stress.

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8 hours ago, Gerontious said:

I find Switzerland wildly unexciting. Passed through that country while Covid was in full swing after staying the night in Liechtenstein as that was one of the few countries the UK government allowed at that time. Plus Germany and Italy. (Bizarrely)

Due to all the laws and accompanying fines they have it’s a tedious place to visit. Speed cameras. Speed traps. And an awful lot of polizei with little to do aside from dusting their credit card machines it’s just not worth the hassle. It’s good that you have a GPS on order at least you can be sure you’re within the speed limit everywhere. Be very careful. And be sure you have the cash available if you do get caught out and that the bike is fully legal. There is no such thing as a minor misdemeanour there. Everything costs. Big. 
 

if you weren’t set on going there I would suggest you pass it by. Head for somewhere glorious. South if France. Or the Pyrenees/Picos or eastern Alps - Dolomites and Slovenia. Carinthia in Austria. Salzkammergut. What these areas lack in cheese and cowbells they make up for in a markedly reduced level of day to day stress.


We had three days in Switzerland in 2018 as part of longer tour taking in the Vosges and some of the Route Des Grand Alps. We had a thoroughly enjoyable time, and would have gone back last year had it not been for the inclement weather, and will be heading back that way this year. I didn’t find it at all stressful. 

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Welcome in! 

They sound like great trips.

 

One thing that's happened in the intervening years is speed cameras coupled the knowledge that all the fines you rack up abroad will follow you home - at least they do to the UK, and I guess they will find you in Ireland too. Whether this is important to you will depend on how you ride. Let's assume for now that you always ride under the speed limit, but just in case others come along with a different approach reading this, here's what they might want to know.

 

In general, you're more likely to find cameras on main roads, particularly where they pass through built up areas. Some countries - France is notable for this -you're just as likely to find them at random places along the nationales and autoroutes for no possible reason other than revenue collection. In Germany, you can often find them at junctions where a minor road meets a B road or a fast L road. Some countries, like the UK, paint them custard yellow and place warning signs to encourage you to slow down before you get the camera. Others - France and Belgium are good examples - hide them behind rocks or trees and paint them olive green or grey to encourage you to go through them without noticing and pay the fine.

Given all this variation, I like to have an idea of where they are, so I've used this map - https://www.scdb.info/en/karte/ - to be better informed. It's not complete, but it gives you a good idea of how common cameras are in the places you're visiting, and the kind of places where they're positioned. The TomTom you're thinking of has speed camera warnings, which I would use if I had them, except of course in France, where they're outlawed. 

 

You might consider getting the TomTom a couple of months before you go so you can get used how it works. You don't want to spend your time away faffing with the nav.

 

All the best with the planning. It's all part of the fun :grin:

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14 hours ago, Gerontious said:

 

Due to all the laws and accompanying fines they have it’s a tedious place to visit. Speed cameras. Speed traps. And an awful lot of polizei with little to do aside from dusting their credit card machines it’s just not worth the hassle. It’s good that you have a GPS on order at least you can be sure you’re within the speed limit everywhere. Be very careful. 
 

 

you got caught speeding ... 

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8 hours ago, Steve_M said:


We had three days in Switzerland in 2018 as part of longer tour taking in the Vosges and some of the Route Des Grand Alps. We had a thoroughly enjoyable time, and would have gone back last year had it not been for the inclement weather, and will be heading back that way this year. I didn’t find it at all stressful. 

 

Thats absolutely fine. its a popular destination. but not for me. and incidentally, I suggested to my group of friends, going to Switzerland quite a few years ago and didn't get a single positive response. It was met with either a stony silence. ethical objections from one of the guys. or.. it's just "too much of a faff". (and we all know what that means.)

 

And this was without me saying anything about the place. it was merely a suggestion made in a German hotel bar. Im not in any rush to suggest going there again. 

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Just last week I got into a big argument with my neighbour about economics. And the Swiss economy in particular.

She was very heated up about it all, but not quite as heated up as me, as I kept interrupting her while she was telling me that we in the UK should run our economy like that in Switzerland. There, she said, they make chocolate and watches, and because they make them so very well, they can all enjoy one of the highest standards of living in Europe. I said to her that there was really only room for one banker to the world's gangsters and corrupt dictators, and the UK couldn't really compete with the Swiss when it came their particular mix of hypocrisy and high-sounding privacy laws, and we therefore were stuck with the bind of finding ways of making a living for ourselves that were less dependent on the worldwide organised crime and state-sponsored corruption.

 

But apart from that, there's nothing wrong with Switzerland. And they do make great chocolate and fine watches :classic_biggrin:   

 

Yes, I was the one who wouldn't go to Switzerland...

Edited by bonio
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7 hours ago, bonio said:

Given all this variation, I like to have an idea of where they are, so I've used this map - https://www.scdb.info/en/karte/ - to be better informed. It's not complete, but it gives you a good idea of how common cameras are in the places you're visiting, and the kind of places where they're positioned. The TomTom you're thinking of has speed camera warnings, which I would use if I had them, except of course in France, where they're outlawed. 

 

I've no experience of Tom-Tom but my Garmins have "Dangerous Road Section Ahead"  which is actually a warning that there is a speed camera lurking up the road.  Speed cameras have proliferated in France over the last 10 years but they do usually  put up big sort of billboards to let you know they're there.

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Thanks for the comments and advice.

 

Cant help noticing the advice re. Speed cameras and fines. Makes you wonder if it’s worth all the effort to be preoccupied by watching for speed traps. Fortunately I didn’t fall foul of the cameras last time but by all accounts they have become a real spoiler. I’m generally cautious re. Speed but beginning to wonder if I need the grief.

I’ve done those two long trips I mentioned (last time in 2011) and they were thoroughly enjoyable. That’s not to say exhausting. Got carried away with the quality of the road surfaces, sweeping bends, lack of hedges and generally good weather. We went day to day on a chosen route until 4 or 5 pm then looked for some where to stay. Fell into the trap of judging possible hotels on the move and ‘we’ll just push on to the next town and the next ‘ but always found a bed for the night. Like in the western films tying up the horses at the saloon.

not booking ahead somewhat added to the adventure but if I go solo this summer I think I’d prefer to pre book. 
The two previous trips I’ve outlined above seem to have hit a lot of the highlights of the alps and Switzerland…..perhaps rather than revisiting I should seek out other routes??

are the Pyrenees worth the trip??

begining in Ireland I could catch the ferry to Cherbourg or Roscoff and perhaps get the bike on one of those trains which run down the west of France. Then ride the Pyrenees??

Maybe too far south??

Edited by RobCB1300
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Can anyone suggest a route beginning / ending in Cherbourg. Perhaps not including Switzerland. Never been through Germany or Austria. What is the reception like if you don’t pre book accommodation there.

has anyone perhaps made a list of biker friendly hotels on a particular route.

 

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I've not ridden in Spain, but when I've driven a car there I've found the emptiest, bendy roads with tarmac so beautiful it's enough to make grown man weep. People write epic poetry about biking in the Pyrenees and the Picos. I'd say simply not to spend too much time at the coasts (which are busy), and the roads should be awesome. It's place I'd love to take the bike. There's a ferry to Bilbao from Rosslare, if that helps. 

 

Don't be too rattled by the cameras. It's just better to realise that things have changed and to be aware of those places where you need to careful, than end up with a collection of fines after you get home. I was in Germany, Belgium, France and Luxembourg for a week last year, had great fun on the roads, and got no fines. 

 

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17 hours ago, RobCB1300 said:

Can anyone suggest a route beginning / ending in Cherbourg. Perhaps not including Switzerland. Never been through Germany or Austria. What is the reception like if you don’t pre book accommodation there.

has anyone perhaps made a list of biker friendly hotels on a particular route.

 


Now you’re talking. Germany and Austria plus the once upon a time “Austrian parts” of Italy are rich in motorbike hotels. Find them with google use the term Motorrad Hotel. Aside from that accommodation is plentiful and always Biker Friendly. The term to look out for is Zimmer Frei. (Bedroom available) and these are everywhere. It’s completely normal to see the room first before you commit.

Zimmer mit Frustuck is Bed and Breakfast. Again very common, Breakfast is a big deal in all the German speaking countries and areas.

Trouble is though the distance. Black Forest is over 900 kilometres. Shortest toll route.

 

You might consider the Pyrenees though that is a similar distance. If you head for Pau, which is a favourite starting point on the French side.

 

im not even sure if motorail is still a thing in France. Last I heard it was vehicles only which required you to catch a separate train. Might be worth investigating if this service still exists to the south of France and gives you enough of a time saving to be worthwhile.

 

if you were to decide to go to the Pyrenees There is a direct ferry service was starting from Ireland this year. A Brexit benefit for you for sure!! Rosslare to Bilbao. https://tinyurl.com/2e6aq2rd Im certain this would be cost effective as well as saving you a huge amount of time.

 

I have some great bike route maps for a 10 day tour, and can easily send them if you want. For the Pyrenees. Of course the ferry port in Spain, puts you within easy reach of the Picos too. And that’s a hugely popular touring region in “Green Spain”.

Edited by Gerontious
Spolling mistooks
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8 hours ago, RobCB1300 said:

Thanks for the comments and advice.

 

Cant help noticing the advice re. Speed cameras and fines. Makes you wonder if it’s worth all the effort to be preoccupied by watching for speed traps. Fortunately I didn’t fall foul of the cameras last time but by all accounts they have become a real spoiler. I’m generally cautious re. Speed but beginning to wonder if I need the grief.

I’ve done those two long trips I mentioned (last time in 2011) and they were thoroughly enjoyable. That’s not to say exhausting. Got carried away with the quality of the road surfaces, sweeping bends, lack of hedges and generally good weather. We went day to day on a chosen route until 4 or 5 pm then looked for some where to stay. Fell into the trap of judging possible hotels on the move and ‘we’ll just push on to the next town and the next ‘ but always found a bed for the night. Like in the western films tying up the horses at the saloon.

not booking ahead somewhat added to the adventure but if I go solo this summer I think I’d prefer to pre book. 
The two previous trips I’ve outlined above seem to have hit a lot of the highlights of the alps and Switzerland…..perhaps rather than revisiting I should seek out other routes??

are the Pyrenees worth the trip??

begining in Ireland I could catch the ferry to Cherbourg or Roscoff and perhaps get the bike on one of those trains which run down the west of France. Then ride the Pyrenees??

Maybe too far south??

We never book hotels in advance. Our usual approach is to stop late afternoon and work out approximately where we’ll be in an hour or so, then use booking.com to find a suitable hotel. We’ve used this system for every European tour (except Scotland) and it’s worked well for us. In over 70 bookings we’ve only had two disappointments: two hotels with no-one to greet us; each time we’ve found an alternative easily. 

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22 hours ago, RobCB1300 said:

begining in Ireland I could catch the ferry to Cherbourg or Roscoff and perhaps get the bike on one of those trains which run down the west of France. Then ride the Pyrenees??

Maybe too far south??

From Roscoff half a day's riding (4 hours) will get you to Nantes.  No toll roads in Brittany !  From Nantes 5-6 hours on toll roads will get you to Pau.  The tolls are not that bad for motos and you'll be riding at a steady speed, 110kph is ideal, so fuel consumption will be good. Fill up at a supermarket before you start and use your satnav to find supermarkets near the Autoroute for when you need to fill up. 

Riding the Pyrenees west to east is a great buzz either on the French side or the Spanish side, or do like me and ride both !

As for accommodation, I use a smartarse phone or a tablet in the hotel, with decent wi fi of course, and pick out the next night's stop. 

And just don't ride like a hooligan, pay attention to the road signs, and you won't need to worry about speed cameras.

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