iangaryprice

First time I have heard of doing this, I have known head bolts need to be re-torqued 500miles after refitting head (let it settle down then re-torque). I would have thought loosening the head bolds could damage the head gasket. I have a GSX600F, similar type engine, not seen anything in the manual about re-torquing head on mine.

That part shown in your photo is a filter, if it had black bits in it, then its doing its job of keeping dirt out. Down side is it could now be blocked and preventing fuel getting tothe carb. Also means you have dirt in the fuel. Have a look in the tank to see if the fuel looks dirty. Take the filter off and reverse flush it by connecting it the opposite way round to the fuel pipe with other end (carb end) inot a clean glass jar. Look to see if any dirt comes out and the fuel flows freely, If you get lots of dirt and/or the fuel does not come out freely, then replace the filter.

First think to do is work out why it is leaking. Hopefully its just the seals, worn, perished cracked etc. But there are 2 other things to check. 1. Are the chrome legs pitted/scratched damaged. Havea good look at them is the best way. 2. Are the bushes inside the legs worn. Check for play by pushing pulling on the top of the lower leg against he chrome leg. You may need to emove the fork brace, mudguard and slacken the wheel spindle to detect any play. Hopefully its just old seals and new ones will solve the problem.

You need to find a specialist wheel repairer, the adverts a the back of a magazine like Motorcycle Mechanics or Claasic Motorcycles, might help. Otherwise someone on here might know a place.

I have bought some gear form J&S in Northwich, its a nice 20mile ride for me. IXS hlemet served me well for a few years. I got boots from Aldi, 4 years old and past thier best now but excellent value. Jacket and trousers from NEC show. Not impressed with RST kit, not waterproof. Just got a new Shark Sqwal LED Helmet from Manchester bike show. cost £160 best price on Ebay £210! Saving paid for fuel & admission, anda good day out into the deal.

Definitely go for the PINLOCK. I got back into bikes 3 years ago, I bought an IXS 580 helmet it came with pinlock visor, it also has flip down dark visor. Last time I was riding bikes was back in the early 90's, always had problems with visor misting up. The staff at J&S recomended getting PINLOCK, I was failry happy with the IXS but did think the PINLOCK visor restricted vision slighly. I have just replaced it with a Shark Sqwal LED, again it has PINLOCK & flip down dark visor. Th ebig plus is the PINLOCK is a better fit, it is almost as large as the opening, so field of vision is much better then the IXS. I have never had a problem with visor misting with the pinlock, thooughly recommend them.

Have you followed the correct adjustment method. ON most bikes you slacken the cable right off. Then on many bikes (not all), there is an adjusting screw and locknut, undo the locknut, adjust screw out, then in until you feel resistance, backout 1/4 turn, tighten locknut. Now you can set the cable adjustment, at handlbar end fully screwed in, adjust at gearbox end untill end of lever has 15mm play (you have short levers so 10mm may be better).

From the photo it looks fairly tidy and complete. Looks like it would be worth spending some money to get it running and looking good. I'm sure in its current condition its worth many times what you paid for it.

Totally agree,daftest idea I've heard in ages. modern engines are mostly alloy, so how much use is a magnetic sump plug these days? whats it going to collect? The external parts you can see are mostly aluminium, crankcases, cylinder block, head, cam cover, end covers. But most of the internal parts that are moving against each other are steel, crankshaft, roller bearings, gears, canshafts, valves, rocker arms etc. Pistoms are an exception - usually aluminium. So a magnetic sump plug does have its uses. I'm not sure how effective they are, they certainly catch small particles of metal. But how much do they collect. The filter should be catching most of it before the oil gets pumped to the bearings.

I had not considered the camber causing more wear on the right side of the tyre. I thought it was down to roundabouts! they are all right handed and I have 4on my 5 mile trip to work! My last fornt was down to limit on the right but still 2.5mm in the middle. Maybe a combination of the 2 in my case,

Suction pumps work well on cars if the dipstick tube goes all the way to the bottom of the sump. Unfortunatly on many it doesn't I tried using oneon my Mondeo and it only pulled 4,5litre out, when I do a oil chnage by the sump plug 6 litres ocmes out. On most bikes the oil filler has the dipstick in it. So you need to put a tube in here to suck the oil out. I had a look at my GSX600F engine, the sump pan is a long way from the filler on the clutch housing & much lower down. It doesn't look like I could get a tube to the bottom of the sump to get most of the oil out!

I went on Saturday, never been before. I have been to the NEC show a few times. Queues were a pain, I got there about 10:00am took nearly 1/2 hour to get tickets and in the door. Never had any queues at the NEC, bu then I went midweek, not an option at Manchester. Show was pretty good, most of the latest bikes on display, plent yof accessory stores, got myself a Shark Skwal LED helmet. Met my mate Neil on the Supermoto stand, good to catch up not seem him for ages. Food was expensive, wish I'd taken my own! and had to queue again! Layout was good, plenty of space, never a problem getting around even though it was busy.

If there is no click at all then the starter relay may be faulty. Check the starter circuit with a light bulb (a bulb works bette than multimeter for this type of fault finding)

Put the origianl lever back on and check it works well. Measure how far the cable moves at the gearbox end when the lever is pulled. Hold a rule against it while someone else operates the lever. Put your new lever on again. Measure how far the cable moves when the lever is pulled in. If th emovemnt is less with the new lever, it is not suitable Does the lever move all the way back to the handlebar? ON you rphotgraph it looks like it may hit the switchgear.

As said above, you need new head bearings. Be very careful whne you adjust them. If you set them too tight they will be damaged. Turn the adjuster untill there is no play, back it off a about 1/6 turn, when you tighten the locknut the small amounto of play will be taken out. If there is some play, mark the adjuster, loosen the lock nut, move the adjuster a small amount, tighten lock nut and check. Be patient, ts better to do it gradualy starting with play, slowly removing the play untill its correct. Overtightening will damage the bearings.

When they repalced the worn rocker arm there was probably other parts that were slightly owrn but not too bad. The rocker arm is mounted on a shaft, this could be worn. The range of valve clearance gaps genrrally allows for the difficulty of settign them precisiely. I always make sure the minimum size feeler is loose and the maximum won't go in.

I think your best bet is to get it hrough the MOT then you can road test it and workout what is wrong. ZZR600 seems to be a bit troublesome, so it could be fuel related, especially if it has been standing for some time.

Check the chain adjustment. It might be too tight. Did you take the cahin and/or sprockets off? If you did then did you put them back on the same way around?

I am going tomorrow, could with a day out aftera tough week at work. Might bump into one of my school mates om the Supermoto stand. Not seen him for ages. Could do with anew Helmet as weel - see if there are any good deals.

I live in Ewloe, just past Queensferry, so you would pass my way if your doing a trip into wales. I often go to A&D in Denbigh fo a ride and bacon butty in teh Cafe.

Check the rubber diaphrams ij the topof the carbs for splits, tears or small holes. Make sure the slides move freely up and down. If these are OK then you will be lokinga tchecking the needle valves in the carb float bowls. One trick I learnd with these before dismantling the carbs is:- Connect a piece of clear tubing to the drain at he bottom of the carb. Raise the open end and fix it to the side fo the carb near the top edge of the float bowl. Open the drain screw, turn the petrol tap to prime and observe the levelof the petrol. It should be the same on all 4 carbs, any thta are higher indicatea leaking needle valve.

Have you checked for a spark, remove the plug, push it into the plug cap rest he metal part against he cylinder head, then kickstart. Watch for a spark. Make sure ignition turned on. If no spark its electrical. If you got a spark, make sure fuel is on, choke on and try again. This cold weather doesn't help getting them started. My daughter is picking her YBR125 up tomorrow, I have just been put to make sure it will run. Took a long time to get it started, had to use kickstart. Even when it started it kept stalling, had to let it tickover for several minutes beofre it would rev. Seems OK now,

If it has only started to do it recently, it likely to be th ecold weather. My GSX600 will start and run fine all summer without choke. Get to late autumn and it will start with out choke but wont rev, needs choke to get it revving and running. When winter arrives it needs choke to get ot started. When it's frosty, it needs choke to start, revs slowly to begin with, wait for revs to rise to about 3000 then slowly reduce choke to keep revs at around 2000. If I touch the throttle within the first minute it tends to kill the engine then its difficult to restart.

I have just found the wiring diagram for my daughters YBR125 2005 (carb) Black wire - connects to rev counter, fuel gauge, illumination lights, left indicator, right indicator, full beam Light green - Fuel gauge form sensor.# Brown - connects to fuel gauge, rev counter, and neutral light. Light blue - Neutral light (earths when switch is closed) Yellow - full beam light Green + orange - indicators Dark blue - illumination bulbs Yellow/blue striped - signal form ECU for rev counter. Hope this helps.

One side of the Neutral light should be live when the ignition is on. The other side is connected to the neutral light switch. When the bike is in neutral the switch connects the wire to earth putting the light on. I think this is where you are going wrong. The illumination bulbs, high beam, indicator lights all require an earth (black wire), They illuminate when =12v is applied to the other wire. Good luck.