TimR

Take carbs apart and thoroughly clean Don't rely on carb cleaning products .. They are for 'minor' problems . Get the basics right before anything

Does your bike have the adjusters on the top of forks or is it the penny and clip style ? As they canbe funto remove /re instate . Wooden Broom handle works well for damping rod securing .

Read up on piston ring gap placements and position.

Define your process . Dobyou mean all pistons connected to crankshaft and slide them in from bottom as that is like herding cats ..... frustrating and can result in things not going to plan .

How many of your bikes actually state in the owners manual that to check your oil the vehicle must be run for a defined period then the oil level checked ? And as part of your daily powder/flower check this would be part of your routine would it not ?

Google HAV's / whitefinger . Sounds like you may have the onset of it .

You can add a boost pack and leave it connected for 15 mins or so to build up charge inthe battery ( this is actually what you are meant to do with boost packs ) just DO NOT Place ANY load on the system with the pack attached ie DO NOT attempt to start or even turn ignition on . Disconnect pack then attempt start .

See above I realised this as images dont resize instantly on my phone and didn't realise it was just the block itself

I would read the information that came with the friction plates https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/Brands/STDHD-CORK-CK-Clutch-Kit

Motorcycles are designed to be a wet clutch . This stops them wearing/burning out quickly . They only partially sit in oil as crankcase is only filled by about a third . I would personally take a bit of time before starting to manually turn the bike over to make sure the clutch is fully coated and allow it to rest in that position for a while ( an hour minimum) but this is my opinion.

Hope you soaked the friction plates in oil ? As looks dry in your pic

Same as diesel will damage tarmac. It is also a substance that we as bikers avoid so why anyone wants to voluntarily add it near their tyres is beyond me. Diesel will also require a good clean afterwards and washing it off with water does not fully remove and the remaining will still act as a degreaser on the new lube ... Paraffin has a better evaporation than diesel but again you have to make sure its fully cleaned off . So use diesel /paraffin as an initial degreaser but make sure you use a method to clean these substances off

Could be a physical thing ...too tight grip ,poor posture/position, onset of white finger/renaulds /HAVs Could be a mechanical thing. Incorrect bar weight , poorly tuned suspension , bent bar resulting in poor position .

It's the stainage i worry about..

Await the next phase of Tesla ... Your car takes itself off when your not using it and becomes an Driverless UBER

Just remember that the wheels go round and round

Are you sure it's not 9125.0 Not 91250 But the sun glare makes it hard to see. Yes more than the specified milage but its up to the buyer to check these things and if it's from a dealer then you have that right to return if not as described.

It is the correct clock for that bike

Abba superbike stand then .... Not the cheaper option but ...

Extend the lower ramp and form it into a platform so that the rear wheel is higher as the front goes over the top lip ... Or a couple of scaffold planks joined side by side and secondary planks joined 2/3 of the way to strengthen and extend.

If it has a hollow axle tube ... Get a length of threaded bar or such like that fits inside the bobbins ( ie m6/m8) Put through axle and bobbin either side .. Remove after use.

Not 1990 but my old 94

Have you actually looked into the rocker cover . Just wondering if where you drilled to far it hasn't ' blown' part of the casing and this is rattling around or worse still even into a exhaust port and through valve