Colin the Bear

No knocking of the steering. http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z28/Colin_the_bear/69.gif Counter steering is something that you are doing unconsciously or the bike would not turn. If we make a point of being conscious of it we can better control it. Aproaching the corner adjust your speed to suit conditions. Apply gentle pressure away from you to the inside bar. Bike will tip in. Keep pressure on bar Apply throttle. More throttle to run wider, less throttle to turn in. Smoothness is the key. Practice is the solution. In time it will become second nature

The brake light can be illuminated by covering the brake. It's a useful way of communicating with other road users. Isn't it ancient wisdom that all that an illuminated indicator/brake light means is that the bulb works.

Replacing your mirrors is the easiest option. Watch out for the famous left hand thread on the right side with yamaha mirrors. http://www.getgeared.co.uk/Motorcycle_M ... &network=s http://www.wemoto.com/?gclid=CPTCrdzvsqkCFYEc4QodsxsVLQ http://www.mandp.co.uk/productsList.asp ... kw=mirrors

http://www.mandp.co.uk/products/list/Ba ... Handlebars http://www.getgeared.co.uk/Motorcycle_P ... Handlebars More on google under motorcycle handlebars

Don't get mixed up with a quality helmet and a fancy paint job. A helmet with a Rossi paint job will cost a load more than the same helmet in plain white. Aerodynamics in my opinion are more important than saving a few ounces. The noise will be reduced making the rider more aware of surroundings and maybe not so deaf later in life. Wind drag at 70mph will give you more of a pain in the neck than an extra 4 oz. Of course 4oz is important to a motogp rider where a 0.1 second difference on lap times can mean the difference between winning a £1million pound sponsor for coming first and being relegated to the lower echelons. So if you have the need to sport a race winners helmet you'll pay for that. Just like an England or Man U strip bares no relation to cost of production. Granted a lot of research and development goes into materials and shape and some helmets have lots of little extras like vents, flip fronts etc. but it's still a production line, mass produced item, not a hand built, custom fit , one off. Essentially a helmet is a plastic bucket full of expanded foam with a cloth liner. All we need is a good shell and a good fit. Remember also that more than 50% of the price you pay is retailer mark up on a designer brand. They easy knock 50% off in the sales and stay in business. Watch how much the price dips when your race replica starts losing. If you barter with the shop and ask for 20% off a £250 helmet, you'll be doing us all a favour.

If you keep paying stupid prices for helmets, they're gunna keep charging 'em

A good driver hardly uses the brakes, have they got brembo as sponsors?

Surely that can't be right.

Never noticed op. Who bumped it? Blame Donnie

Cillit bang and cola both contain phosphoric acid. The acid eats the iron oxide and turns it black.

Every time you touch the throttle or brakes it costs fuel. The faster you change speed, the more it costs. Smooth riding with a light touch is the economic way. Revs don't really matter if the throttle position is light. More economic to have high revs in a low gear when climbing than low revs with the throttle wide open and labouring the engine. If you need to skip two gears you were either in the wrong gear to start with or didn't read the road properly.

Select gear to match road speed to engine revs. For any vehicle

Look at map b4 you set off, put map in pocket. Sorted.

Poor engine performance may indicate a service is overdue. Is 4th top on this bike? You may be in 5th. Could also be brake dragging , clutch slipping, underinflated tyres, sudden rider weight gain

Love the work bench

Hence using the wood. The wood will protect the piston and caliper but will also break before the clamp is over stressed. http://www.toolstation.com/documents/se ... &submit=Go I meant break lever Please disable this feature on your bike.

Buy 2 c clamps. Put a piece of wood across the face of the piston and one behind the caliper. Sqeeze the wood pieces together by tightening the clamps evenly. You may need to remove the lid of your mastercylinder reservoir to let the fluid flow backwards. Please don't hit precision made brake parts with a hammer. How did moving the gear lever make the brake caliper piston extend? A few inexpensive, basic maintenance tools will pay for themselves quickly and last a lifetime. The right tool for the right job saves buying extra parts. Your first buy should be a manual. Knowing how things work is the first step to fixing them.

and you get an extra pocket with kangaroo. Horse hide is tougher than cow hide and cheaper than kangaroo skin

If it works fine with a booster for the battery, it seems like either the new battery is lacking power, check the rating and charge condition, or you're loosing battery power somewhere. Check for loose connections and broken earth straps. Will it start if you bump it? Could be a worn out starter motor sapping battery power. Check connections to starter and earth straps.

Don't be using a screw up hose clamp if it's designed for a spring clamp, very easy to damage things. You may have lost a gasket or the gasket has failed

Drill and tap and use two oversize short bolts? It is an engine mount so make it strong. A blow torch wafted across the ally is all that's needed to warm it up. Put it in the freezer overnight ,then leave it in the sun? Pop it in the oven on a low setting and try the candle thing. Trying to find something that eats aluminium oxide but not aluminium. Edit: Got it. weak sulphuric acid will eat ally oxide. So weak battery acid should help free it up. 2nd Edit: Look up dopey Well done

http://www.ehow.com/how_5640195_remove- ... block.html http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archiv ... 40740.html Found this too Removing frozen bolts from aluminum -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Only works if part is off the motor, but I remove frozen studs, bolts and stuff like that from aluminum by throwing it in my nitric tank. Eats the steel in a few hours and doesn't attack the aluminum. So if you got an old aluminum part with a stuck bolt find your local plater, he'll get it out.

It was all going too easy Try some graphite based penetrating oil. Paraffin may loosen the rot. The ally has reacted with the steel to form a sort of bond. A little heat may help. Lots of little taps from both ends. Patience. Might have to drill it out. Last resort , spark errosion

I think you've answered you own question there. Mine is getting a little old and has neutrals between every gear. Just need to be a little firmer with the up shift. There's a sweet spot for gear changes and it's not at the top of the rev range. I don't think it's your clutch action as you can shift without the clutch. Perhaps back off the throttle a little more as you change. It takes the strain out of the drive train and allows things to mesh.