sparkeh9

Since when? can you guarantee there isn't a car coming around a bend? I'd indicate even if I was the only person around for miles tbh

don't click for developing hazards, click when they actually ARE hazards

Half 11 is a serious lay-in

Unlucky mate, 108 mph average is a bit excessive though. Im not sure what the outcome will be, but from reading your above post, it seems you've already realised the impact of what you did, and hopefully they will realise it too. Have you ever had any speeding tickets or any other motoring offences? if not, this may go in your favour

Or not be able to afford to live, because of the increased cost of insurance premium

I kept tripping up on that, and it seems quite common. Perhaps they should change it slightly, and get you to click when you see a hazard developing, and when it is a hazard. I'd say it's equally if not more important to be able to identify a hazard before it happens, to take appropriate action before it develops.

I fixed it!....sort of I replaced the LHS engine cover, broke the basket getting it off (lucky I bought one in anticipation), filled it back with oil, and it didn't leak. Hurrah. The bike still wouldn't turn over, I managed to bump it, so the electrics seemed OK, I figured a broken starter motor, the sidestand switch or some other connection disconnected. Turns out it was the clutch lever switch that was knackered (should've noticed before, as the bike landed on its left hand side, and the little ball on the end of the lever was grazed), I got it to turn over and run beautifully when I bypassed the switch, just used a bit of wire to connect the terminals in the plug and voila. Only problem with this is the sidestand cutoff switch doesn't work when it's down anymore, but at least I can get to work now! Just need to find myself a clutch switch, and im set. That and repairing the cracked fairing =/

I just use WD40 for its penetrant properties, crud comes off fairly easily Gonna get some paraffin and give that a go. I didn't know you could buy kerosene from ASDA, I think of it as jet fuel

I use degreaser to get the gunk off (or WD40 if I haven't got any degreaser), hose it down with water, then spray on the new chain lube as I turn the wheel slowly (on centre stand of course), then wipe off the excess. Might not be the best or right way to do it, but it's always worked for me

if your wheel locks, let go of the brake and reapply My wheel locked on my Mod 1, I did the above procedure subconsciously and passed

I ordered mine online, took 2 days

But that would mean people would learn to drive in huge cc jeeps and such (or small vans), then jump in a smaller cc sports car (assuming they wanted to do this). Also would penalise people who could only afford a 1.2 or whatever when they are young and doing their test as they would have to re-do their test when they could afford a slightly bigger car. Good idea, I hadnt thought of something like that before, but would need to be implimented slightly differently What I was suggesting is that maybe a maximum of 1400cc to learn in & not be allowed to drive anything with a bigger engine for 2 years - no need to take another test. Just like with bikes, after the 2 years is up they can drive whatever they like. Make it a 1.0l maximum to make them suffer, payback for this 33bhp crap that I've had to put up with

LOL, I'd be scared to learn in such a thing

I managed to source a cheap enough cover, so that's that problem sorted Now the electrics... The starter button does absolutely nothing, but the side stand switch seems to be connected. I can turn my headlights on and switch between low and high beam, but the pass/flash button doesn't do anything. Dash lights work, front indicators work but flash double rate (haven't checked the bulbs yet), stop light works on the brake. Any specific symptoms standing out? Haven't had a proper look at it yet, as it's not at my house (happened close to my gf's parent's house)

Is it carb or Fuel injected? If it's carbs, might need cleaning out and mixture setting up. If it's FI, possibly fuel pump? sounds like fuel starvation to me. But of course, I'm no mechanic

Will a bandit 1200 Left hand engine casing for on a B6? I'm having trouble finding a second hand one that isn't ridiculously priced

It was in Rotherham at the time, was gonna go past Rainbow BMW Motorcycles, so it's from centenary way onto sheffield road, happened outside Saul and Jackson garage maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=a6178+roundabout&hl=en&ll=53.424555,-1.362541&spn=0.003034,0.006539&sll=53.42365,-1.362047&sspn=0.011815,0.026157&z=18

I repaired my rear wheel bearing yesterday and so went for a little test ride, it was much better, back to normal. On the way back home, was on a roundabout and just straightened up to exit, a blue sports car (TVR I think) obviously not looking, just pulls out without stopping. Luckily I reacted quick enough and swerved round it, but doing so meant I ran too wide and bounced off the kerb, slipped on some gravel and slid on the tarmac a few metres. The git didn't even stop Luckily I was wearing all my gear! but there was oil all over the road, I couldn't tell where it was coming from at first. Turned out to be the left hand side engine casing (if you get what I mean, there was a hole in it from where it'd scraped along the floor. I tried to check if the engine was OK, but it wouldn't turn over. The indicators at the front were flashing double rate, and the rear ones not at all, all the dashboard lights were fine, and headlight still worked. Don't know why this is? Checked fusebox but the ignition fuse looked fine. Any ideas?

I always ride left of the centre white line, to the right of the centre

OK, so I took the rear wheel off and made sure everything was aligned....Then I noticed a ball bearing on the floor....So im guessing the rear wheel bearing is FUBAR. How do I replace it? just bought a pair on ebay for £6 inc delivery

I guess it just couldn't handle the awesomeness (or crapness ) of the song you were listening to. What was it btw?

Im gonna take it apart if I get chance later, I may have mixed up some of the spacers when I changed the sprocket carrier...at least I hope that's all it is Im not a mechanic, but I always have a go myself .

I'm starting to think it's the torque arm (I think thats what it's called) which is bolted to the brake caliper, as I noticed it only wobbles slightly when I use the brake. Must be subconscious braking, as I'd not noticed before. Also, it made a tyre screeching sound for a few seconds, as though the torque arm was rubbing against the tyre. Does this sound feasible?

I'm not sure how to describe this, but here goes. A few days ago I noticed that my chain was really loose, couldn't do anything about it, cos I was on the motorway at the time. I also noticed that the rear wheel felt....disconnected from the rest of the bike, and sometimes the bike felt like it was shaking, or vibrating slightly. I also noticed a reduction in rear wheel braking power.... I though it was a misaligned wheel or something, so I took the opportunity and took off the rear wheel to re-align it. I tightened the chain so it had about 1 inch of play. The chain clunking noise stopped (loose chain), and it felt fine at first, but after I got onto the dual carriageway, it suddenly felt like the wheel was wobbling about and disconnected again. I checked the wheel and it spins as freely as I would expect (with friction from the sprockets and chains etc), doesn't look buckled and is aligned properly as far as I can tell. I can go around corners as easily as I ever could, just on the straights that I notice it shaking slightly, and even then it's periodically. Any ideas?

heh, where I work is like 2 minutes from SMC (near wicker in sheffield city centre, as Im opposite sheffield bus station). Unfortunately I've got FAR too much work to do this weekend