Mickly

They can do anything . They will hard chrome to slightly over size and then machine back to a beautiful finish . They can also do a rebuild and re seal . I had my first GSXR,s forks done and it was money well spent. ( Not my last one , the one before ) Sounds good. I'll make some enquiries once I have the bike. What price are you looking at to have the forks done? I used them recently. I stripped the forks and had them rechrome / grind the tubes. Cost £185 including shipping. They also had a solution to the fact that these particular forks had captive shuttle valves. For them to do the strip down, seals etc it’s best to get in touch with them direct for a quote.

Nah, he’s just bought a strap on !!

THat makes sense, just seen your bikes this is all for a year 2000 - 1200 trophy. [mention]onesea[/mention] Here you go, this is the relevant page from the Haynes manual, should cover yours

You can run it a little low, you certainly wouldn't be the first person to have ever done that. You can also top it up, if you know what the "air gap" should be then this is easy - collapse the fork as much as you can and measure the distance from the top of the stanchion down to where the oil is, and fill it until you have the correct distance. If you don't know what the air gap should be then you're stuffed, maybe just put a few slugs of oil in and see how it goes or empty it completely and refill with the correct amount. My question is how do you measure down from top? Because I might be tempted to do this with non leaking fort to match with leaking fork. How do you get your little it of oil in? Use a piece of wooden dowel as a dip stick, the oil will leave a witness mark. Remove the fork caps to do this.

Wasn’t you, it was someone testing your bike with a view to buy. You lent them your gear for the test ride, decided not to buy, so you haven’t got a clue who they were, think they gave a false name and address. That’s what I heard anyway

You tart

Yes they do, if you tell them what you want they’ll get them for you, they don’t stock them. Do you think they could tackle a Harley ? Dunno, I mean, they do have standards to maintain I think the best thing is to just rock up and ask. I always take loose wheels.

Yes they do, if you tell them what you want they’ll get them for you, they don’t stock them.

On a more sensible point ,. I think that the legal DB of an exhaust is measured at a certain RPM so any kind of device would need to work out whether rather noise was created by someone revving the tits off their vehicle or rumbling along at less than the tested revs !! I’m sure that no one would ever start up a chainsaw in the vicinity of a passing Prius

I’ve just had the tyres removed from the wheels of the Trophy project, so the can be blasted & coated. They were dated 2002 and the front was cracked up n lots of places e.g. Still don’t know how this bike got an MOT? The upside was that it only cost me a total of £5 for both tyres including disposal, so big up to Spon End Tyres in Coventry

The thing that pisses me off in this type of scenario is when someone uses the slip road to undertake a load of traffic & despite there being ample room to merge, steam ahead to the end of the slip road then try and force themselves out causing others to Take avoiding action. This kind of special person invariably then swerves into the outermost lane and starts tailgating. They are best avoided, as their angst due to having such a small penis causes them to compensate by being a dickhead.

Ha, I’ve found them for £1 a piece from Sprint Manufacturing

Still £6 each for an M12x1.25

And somewhere to hide their stash !!

Yeah .. but ... £75 just for nuts?? Btw - it’s the rear sprocket that uses them not the discs.

So ... some more sensible advice required. On the rear suspension linkage and engine mounting bolts of the Trophy, Triumph have deemed it necessary to use a fine thread flanged nut with an in built mechanical locking element. These have been mullered by a previous owner so I’d like to replace them, but not at £6 a time !! Would it be ok to use ones without the locking element & use loctite instead or even a nyloc nut? They also use these for securing the brake discs & although I wouldn’t use Nyloc coz of the temperatures, would loctite or a serrated flange nut do?

I was once told by a friendly MOT tester that my undersized plate ( it was already fitted when I bought it ) ‘wasn’t on the bike” when he tested it. I got a legal one as I didn’t want to give the Police an excuse to pull me over for another chat.

Just found out about a bike meet that occurs on a Wednesday morning at Hoar Park http://www.hoar-park.co.uk/childrensfarm Near Nuneaton. On a nice day there are all sorts of bikes & a friendly/chilled vibe. Reasonably priced cafe/restaurant/coffee shop. Called the Cinderella club coz everyone f*cks off at 12:00 (ish)

Maybe they should turn the rest of the Memorial Park into one giant Park and Ride . I’d suggest Hearsall Common, stop the Pikeys camping on it. Noticed that the JLR site at Whitley is ‘conveniently’ just out side.

Parking in the streets just outside of the zone will become horrendous. Unlike London, there is no underground so Uber / taxi / bus operators will be rubbing their hands in glee. The bus service is already sh*t - I’ve lived here 25 years and tried to catch the bus 7 times, and on only 2 occasions have I been successful due to breakdowns and buses being missed out.

Cheers , do you live inside or outside the proposed zone ? I'm in Earlsdon so just inside . I live in Tile Hill, so outside of the zone, however places I frequent eg Machine Mart, Halfords, Wickes, B&Q etc are all inside

I believe that in London it’s £12.50 per day for vehicles that are not exempt. The Motorcycle Action Group ( MAG ) successfully campaigned for ALL powered 2 wheelers to be exempt when it is introduced in Birmingham & are campaigning to get exemption in London for PTW’s over 12 years old, anything younger is already exempt. I’ll be contacting MAG for a statement on what’s happening in Cov in due course and will post the response.

So Triumph use those wretched Torx bolts as well ! Horrible things , especially the button head variety . There's no depth to them to get the Torx bit all the way in . I'd get rid of them if I were you . It shouldn't be too difficult on a metric bike . Absolutely!! I’m replacing with cap head Allen bolts where I can - the bolts in the pic are there to protect the threads while painting the yolk. Worse are the suspension & engine mounting bolts, which although the heads are deep enough are a fine (1.25) pitch, which is making getting suitable flanged nuts to replace the mangled ones taken off really hard, especially at a reasonable price.

So the piece of stainless pipe turned up & is just the right size Mickly’s patented head bearing press. A few whacks later Sorted Thanks for all the advice that I’ll try and remember for next time.

I've got a 3 foot piece of standard scaffolding tube I can pop round this evening . I'm not sure whether it would be too big but if you have something to use in-between the bearing and the pole you're welcome . I don't know the diameter and I'm at work right now. Thanks for the offer [mention]fastbob[/mention] but I’ve ordered a piece of pipe of the correct diameter (34mm and 1.7mm wall thickness so will fit over the steering stem) off eBay for £6 it’s being delivered Monday, not much chance of doing anything before then due to family based shenanigans I’d have taken the rest of the advice as well but .. 1/ I chucked the old bearings away ages ago 2/ Now it’s stuck on I don’t want to risk damaging it taking it off to freeze / heat.