megawatt

There's tinkly and fookin rattly Jamie. I still think it needs a rebalance.

Just made contact with a company that can make you a new one out of mild steel or stainless. Probs less than £170 if you're interested Tom?

I'll be there and I can get a good route around the Brecon Beacons and mid wales if you want. Where's that dress Gill ???

Collector to linkpipe adapter is being made tomorrow and should arrive on Friday hopefully. If you want it back together tomorrow with old system, you'd best put it at side of bike tomorrow morning mate

The Lower Lode Inn, near Tewkesbury ??? Went there twice last year. Basic facilities, but a great venue, good food and beer.

If there's a clamp at the front end of the silencer, where the downpipe enters it, then yes. If it's a welded, one piece unit, probably not. Got a piccy ?

I doubt a repair to a mild steel downpipe will last long. Once a hole appears and you weld repair it, another one will follow soon after. My advice is to find a stainless header and silencer combo and I don't mean chromed mild steel , I mean stainless. Removing and fitting an exhaust system is pi$$ easy, get on withit, unless you like giving money away?

ABR wrote "Have you tried putting the seal on the piston a bit further down than where it would sit normally , then inserting the piston into the caliper body? You may find this will help as the inside circumference of the seal will be tensioned over the outside circumference of the piston." ??? If the seal isn't fully bedded into the calliper, you can't push the piston through it!! You certainly can't fit it using that method.! OP, make sure the grooves in the calliper are perfectly clean, with no dirt or oxide in the bottom of the grooves. The seals are a precise fit and a little bit of crud will stop them seating. You will always get an arc when fitting them, just push the arc in and the seal will be seated properly. Do not refit pistons unless they are perfectly clean, highly polished and smeared with red rubber/caliper grease. If you still struggle, pm yer number and I'll talk you through it.

I know Stu. You don,t NEED to lower the front.

You don't NEED to lower the front end. it just makes the steering slower. I lowered my B12 rear by 2" and never touched the front end. If you lower the front too much, the bike will be unstable and dangerous.

I reckon stainless headers will be ordered very soon. Followed by a one off "silencer".

Probably find that brakes bind if he,s fitted new pads without cleaning brake pistons first.

Clutch cable needs adjusting, exhaust needs welding. Sooner rather than later.

I did a 4 into 1 into 2 reverse cone megaphones for another cafe racer project.. http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Exhaust%20stuff/IMAG0430.jpg

Lookin good Bob. Keep them pix coming.

I wouldn't have thought it would cause any problems as long as it's same grade and type of oil. ie 10W40 semi synth.

I can make whatever you can imagine Jamie. These are examples; http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Exhaust%20stuff/IMAG0394-2.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Exhaust%20stuff/IMAG0428.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Exhaust%20stuff/IMAG0540.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Exhaust%20stuff/IMAG0394-1.jpg http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r240/megawattblade/Exhaust%20stuff/IMAG0464.jpg I do struggle with long tapers and hexagonal cans, but most things are do-able, given enough time and cash!!!

Didn't get a look at front sprocket, but chain and rear sprocket were good and no jumping of chain when wheel spun backwards. Cush drive feels ok when moving wheel wheel with hub locked. A little movement , but not excessive. Jumping does occur with engine ticking over and bike in first gear.We will balance carbs when time and see if that helps. CCT was an unwelcome surprise, but after removing it and seeing a lot of oil being pumped to back of it and unable to blow brake cleaner, air or oil or grease through back off CCT or oil feed. I assume there's some sort of valve built in or it's blocked!!! CCT works mainly on oil pressure at the back of the camchain guide pusher and there is not enough pressure pushing the metal pusher onto the guide. We pressed hard onto the guide whilst starting the engine and there was no camchain noise and lots of oil from the tiny oilway!!! I'm wondering if some of the chain vibe and power surges could be down to the CCT backing off and varying the cam timing. Hopefully sorted when we fit the manual CCT. I could have done a manual adjustment to the auto CCT which would have worked , but we ran out of time and daylight. Further updates when we meet up again, maybe Friday or Saturday. Great that Jamie lives about 2 miles from me !!!

Bring around to my place Jamie and we,ll check everything, before taking any drastic steps.?

I can meet you, but loomies is a bit far for me. Can you do wessons near Horam?

Usually tubes under the tank to unsnag before removal. If you have a fuel level gauge, there's an electrical connection as well. May be worth disconnecting the battery before starting removal. Make sure you have somewhere secure and non scratchy to place it after removal.

Gimme a shout later mate. I can help with most of those problems.

YES. I could do with a laugh!!!

What they all said and another thing Anzac, NO QUESTIONS ARE STUPID !

Chris is a mate of mine , from near Farnham. Did a trackday with him at RAF Odiham a few years ago and he's a great rider. I couldn't do what he does every day in London and his commentaries are hilarious.