RideWithStyles

I had the Benelli, one of the better ones in “its still all Italian design parts and style” and finished at the factory but Chinese built engine, frame, paint, exhaust, loom, key, clocks and other bits sourced. Badly balanced after overly tight engine build has loosened up (so id doubt the engine), rust, bubbling, water retention, electrical problems. you could tell which bits were more Italian side of thought and spec- Brakes, forks, handle bars, grips, shock, tyres (Pirelli). Dont get me wrong they will get at the same point of the euros and japs (maybe British too?) and catching up fast for life time product buying experience some point but it’s definitely not their yet. for MM the problem is really really old engines even 10years ago, very oddly designed and set up of bike, terrible back up, well below average reliability etc so unless your a real hardcore enthusiast Thayer is no logical reason to buy one outside of Italy that was barely if not more expensive than Ducati monster and thou as much I like the look of MM there is no way id choose one over a second hand Duc M.

Sorry but I think the cbt is too rushed and lax. it’s not school of sat at a desk where if your shite you get grades slightly lower oh well on to college…it’s very likly your body will be on the slab of a medical student poking at your groin if you fook up badly. its still essential if you can’t do it and either ride into a curb or parked car and crash, if you on the road it’s still a skill needed if your a scooter or a cruiser. a cbt is already at 125 so I dont see the reason of your change. the reason for two separate is when could a learner and examiner could do it safety and consistent in the real and public world? (so fair for the on the noob as 1 example ) and so its not all rammed into one whole day? To be honest I didn’t think much of the two mods a say but really unless you have those old joke tests in the 60-70’s or east Euro places for example to degrade the std we are at now its difficult to gets round….

Their attitude and business practice is cost and value first hand, anything else is of no interest as. where as the japs realised that if you cant do better than the next one it has to have or do something better to temp them away. they went with the “if it’s built better they’ll just keep coming back to buy, doesn’t matter if it’s 2,3,4,5 or more years later the return is always worth it as if you can depend on the reputation on the basis of solid used vehicles.

And he’ll be the one to state that you should of “expected it” and “stopped in time” even if you had priority, right of way and correct of what you did, your insurance with say you should take a percentage off the claim….oh how does that teach the mofo who did wrong? Its like when parents teach kids bad behaviour….

Most will be scrapped quicker (lower value higher cost and risk) if it’s beyond a simple job compared to japo, so in a round about way not always cos your not paying out for a garage to inspect, source , fix it warranty it so will be be dropped at the “market value” rate of….not surprises of way below what a private buyer would get/buy which would award the owner FA….

Been part of the geely holding group since 2010, majority share of over 75%. Have they done better than ford did? Questionably. ideals and business (just to name a few) inbetween china, korea let alone Japan are VERY different to each other…

For some a short service interval isn’t a problem for most as more people do less miles, really it’s a yearly thing. Well I remember when Honda did a really stupidly short service interval on the ncx…like valve check at 600miles and every service of four thou…wow did that back fire. on the thing swing of “workers”, if anyone really gave a shite but all it does is bolster the rich (bosses) even more and barely makes a difference to the average to below paid worker…

It will be quicker as you’ll get to know the best way like : chock the tyre and raise it abit or more to help get it in or out, only need quarter or half a turn to make it have 5mm less slack to get it within spec, I need two wrenches as the axle has a habit of spinning around until it’s at 80% to torque …the little things.

Depreciation is along all makes and models, only yours will be hit even heavier than them and the likely hood of px from a dealer is low or some willing to buy it is a lot less likely, longer you have it the worse it will be, just so you know. Agree with all other posts, only to add as the tyres will be oem at best and at worse cheap nasty unknown chinese shite. they will not particularly like the cold and Chinese ones hate everything, so smooth and forward thinking “of what if this or that and to expect“ so your not going to need to trust the tyre to do a emergency stop when you really need it is the key. keep an eye on the tyre pressures weekly before a ride when cold as their pressure wil fluctuate with the weather. Bikes are far more sensitive to this and pressures than cars are, and the warmth of the tyre as after a ride…if it still feels stone cold after a 20 or so mile trek in 0-10degree it will might not be working as well as hoped (there are ways around that but I won’t go into that right now) but if its cheap Chinese tyres then all bets are off.

Hi josh, Id balance them to the pod filters/socks first, get everything else sorted and running then look at the box later (eBay find in the meantime).

To be honest, I did it abeit of the much best ones, the bike ticked the boxes needed. I knew the risk(s), didnt get too badly burnt over my four years with (lucky?) but I know and seen how it can go bad especially if your new or inattentive to its requirements. Would I do it again….probably not and and or certainly not used as those companies design, build, sell and back up the customer as they stand now.

That’s not gps that driver error.

The inner link (left of pic) is abit bent (wonder if it’s been prized at or a stone trapped between?) or was that you? they may have actually greased it but it’s been washed away due to the seal fail?

It will still be desirable especially if its in good nick- old bikes like that are getting well sort after and trendy again, people did own and enjoy and even some younger generations think nothing better than original , just like vinyls which have grown back in popularity again. i bought a 2005 Daytona before and now I’m on a carb Suzuki just because it ticked every box, I liked it and it was a mint 4thou mile bike even though other people wouldn’t want it, so no reason why someone wouldn’t want a older with more rose tint aspect. If its good It would be a crime to do owt other than recommission it, get it running and looking good again but that be my thought on it.

Unfortunately most are already down this route with at least a few models in their line up (if they haven’t been bought out by a Chinese brand already) so really you’re already seeing it. triumph, ktm, Honda, Yamaha just to name a few.

Agree with SD, 50cc is ultra urban territory at best in the uk/ your into to Roman settlement area in Italy/main western world. people get a hang up on the 125 moniker…it’s how you ride it not what you ride is my thought. Till a few months ago I was still riding a m 8hp 125 along with my bike which ranged from 500- 950cc. Once you got calibrated and how to get the best out of it was a laugh and definitely keep drivers thinking “WTF” as you over took them on a small bike with L plates on that never grew old. anyway back to the OP, rather than a straight date why not just give a age of person starting date? Save having to go through the whole bs later on (even if it got accepted as a petition it will take YEARS like minimum of 5 before they even introduce chatting about it let alone implementing it) but if it was me I’d be forward thinking of fitting in for EVs compliance than ice seeming as they’re going to be replaced in the near future….

It already had it in the pipe line for that target before the engine was designed a few years prior, so a new design engine isn’t necessary…even the bigger and older 650 will brezze pass. mostly now down to more ecu strict controls and lack of degradation to main components.

Most of the ones and habits near me are reversed…on the right lane but prepared to cut across two lanes to the left within meters to go left, main road or motorways.. that habit I think is made worse by middle lane dawdlers.

Dont think lowering it to 15 in the uk is a good idea- most UK lads are complete nobs heads (immature if your being kind) with attitude in regard, even before you hand them some wheels that can go at a speed when 16 let alone bigger ones at ages 17+. if the cars/bikes Were capped for power and speeds with gps for young users to keep in check until 21 regardless - id maybe entertain the idea. electric are converted into a scale that sort of makes it comparable to ice, real world application is very much different.

Holding your ground and doing right is right as rules and guidelines are their for a reason but the world general populace doesnt see things as black and white when people and attitudes are involved. The other aspect of it which can ingrained to the dim driver of lazy attitude - of well that worked that time I’ll do/can do it again and it will be fine probably the next driver or motorcyclist won’t be lucky and end up injured or dead….

Doesnt mean all or even some can do it let alone consistently. Now for frilly things you could get away with but for major thing like wheels, brakes, engines etc, no. if it all goes wrong then the nugget has no excuse other than to say their a dick head that didnt use it, I got payed to do a job, should have used it, at fault then they are fully liable to it Not much use if they injured or killed somebody due to it is it? young lad I know gave a simple brake job to a garage to do…failed to do it right- wheel came off a few miles down the road- luckily didn't hit or crash into anybody but damaged the car, they tried to blame him for it but not good nor excuse when they it had only just left their care…

Kies full heated jacket need to be plugged to to bikes battery and nearly none cannot be used with a battery pack (last looked in early 2024) , the vests can go bikes own or portable packs (their own ones not general aftermarket). They have their own fuse which is why you can just go straight to the battery, there fuse is about 7 or 10amp for the jack and less for the vest..

Sorry been away. just to note, sounds like the bike is trying to get off high speed idle (runs ok when cold) so injectors and pump seems ok, either not getting the signal it wants (electric or resistance) or when it does it’s not getting into the next phase of its program. When it does get off the high its struggles or stalls as its not being able to go onto its next bit of being able to run. as a general rule a injector will either work or not at all! Yes they can get abit blocked or corroded but thats is few and far between. Those old injectors on the old ducs weren’t very good at fuel optimisation even at the time. The ecu wasn’t bad but the program and its parameters were not great… yes you are correct some new programs and software (readers) might not work with old set ups, professional set ups are different, emulators are only as good as its design.

Depends if it really needs it or how bad it is? the basic is a good strong fuel cleaner in the fuel, thats the first stage. after that its airbox off and spray carb cleaner into ports and holes you see inside, some will drain some to where you’ll see it exit while some wont, if not joy or change of sound then it most likly will have to come off. before you ever too involved with messing it up or paying for stuff (ull need JIS screw drivers or ull fook the screw heads up in secs) get a Haynes manual for it and go through it, if it seems too much to get the grips of it might be just that and better to search for a good old school mechanic to do it for you. If it sounds ok to you then have a look and go through it step by step, take pictures, log what you take off, bag and label it or detached from what. expect its going to need a clean out…Really clean it, if so then you’ll take the carbs off, jets/needles out (clean and clear out) could do with spraying out at the least or a sonic bath or two (depending on what it is or how much is clearing it) and carb clean it again afterwards. it will take time some tools and meticulous work and patience to do it….in a warm clean garage . if you displace, change setting or screws or remove the carbs what so ever- it must be balanced again afterwards…no if or buts. with the age of the bike expect it to need least some form of rubbers replacing - boots, gaskets, seals, diaphragms, tubes etc so dont be surprised if the shopping list gets bigger.

Got to love abit of ingenuity when absolutely necessary but that carb balancer is way…..to big. . More like Redbull with egg whites and clear jelly bits .