RideWithStyles

Yep thats off road/imperial reference no use now, go for the 90/90 size. Might handle slightly different but id make sure it matched the front brand of tyre if I was being particular.

The product is one of the best out there but it application isn’t the easiest, I found the can not much of a sprayer but more o globs it out. if so I used a normal painters brush, glibber on to the brush directly and spread/apply with it. Brush on , leave for a short bit then buff with a not very absorbing cloth. as others say, put in on pretty much everything, if it does go somewhere not intended wipe off. for key holes/slots and other things like that use gt85, great stuff.

Other than the wiring or a fuse. the sensor needs a pick up to read, is it being able to see/read each other? Its needs to be close. most likely it’s gunked full of chain lube or the pick up has come off?

Ive still got my first pair of boots which are sidi’s vert back in the day, nowt fancy or special as they aint water proof but do an excellent job even so. that pair of boots I even bought at the same time as a spyke leather one piece back in 2009? still got the leather but I don’t wear that as much nowadays especially with this bike and top box .but the boots still gets used a lot apart from the worst weathers. Been used on all my bikes owned and most of my brothers lots too, tracked a good few times etc. just this year the heel sole just started to come away from the boot so I glued it…sole still has meat on it and good for another 10years I think and hope. Even convinced the wife it would be worth it long term to buy a pair when the other brands kept wearing too soon. i think I’ll be ending up wearing wellington boots if I can’t get hold of another pair just like them.

Either wiring/connection or the sensor.

In the car world: Simply SMT / dct have a manual gear box housing and gears, only an actuator / solenoid to move the selector to the gear required and the clutch. These could be sequential or rowed. Cheaper than autos but more to make than manuals but they had their own set of rules for emissions so for the manufacturer that cost was passed on but still some what attractive. the problem for early systems (and still modern ones like vw) were premature wear, control problems, crude operating, lack of service and cheap parts. They were a stop gap and later on away of getting around emissions, as these where ment to have they’re own test. depending on clutch type and design they couldn’t handle as much power and particularly torque aswell as either a true torque converter or manual. true automatics are costly, heavy, less fuel efficient bar the motorway cruise and have actual gears but very durable especially if its maintained properly. cvt are cheaper work fairly similar on a very basic term but different compared to a manual and auto. Cvt is more practical on a bike due to its light weight and compact design, quite cheap and simple to maintain, can handle a decent amount of power/torque/revs for a bike with less weight of the vehicle to push about but some people can’t get their head around the dynamic sound and feeling of the design that the speed and sound it does compared to the engine as it operates due to it not actually having gears as such but always sounds like it’s working hard. on cars I didnt mind either auto or a manual, but the smt/amt (even a good one) is a compromise that doesn’t really solve anything to the user other than come with its own set of problems. Off memory most of not pretty much all electric cars (and pretty much most proper electric bikes to i think) don’t come with a conventional gearbox as such with loads of cogs as the electric motor has so much torque from rest to an absurd spinning speed to reach a terminal velocity that a single gear and torque is managed by the ecu so their is no need for extra weight and complexity. Even cheap small medium cars go over 90mph in only forward gear they have and reach it in a very convincing manner, not many cars manage near that feat, only super bikes do that with fraction of the weight and near power.

Go on then .

Most are noisy as fook outside! But don’t work inside their homes I’m guessing? There are a few neighbours with them, we can hear the things chime as loud a church bell even over 100yrd away….the amazon dudes eventually tune it out or have earphones in (probably avoid hearing loss) but the owners never seem to notice. They should be regulated as to the db level.

Yea Better done than many but still the same problem so this isn’t a particular dig at yourself but just saying it out while the subject is here. guess so there are a few ways to approach this? the hard act is you and others (joined for free or the bare minimum) but with the main goal to promote/advertise this project of yours to gain income from this. If that is so your advertising on a different platform that is paid for by others ,so the hard rule that could be argued maybe a fee or donation for using it as the cost of this platform is not cheap, nor a business as such but individuals taking their own time and money to do this. if your not prepared to pay a fee then the least is to put a word out or logo on Yt of this forum to advertise this place…? That would be merely out of decencies? the soft rule could be that you and others cannot do that (profile locked) until higher levels of monies (and or a regular fee) or a proper cap of post/content is put on first? their are other ways but I’ve just shorthanded them.

Me and my brother have had our fair share of Italian stuff over the years on both two and four wheels. Yes the guzzi as a general they aint as reliable (some ain’t bothered but for me it needs to be a sure thing) and some units are good as gold but as like many things use them as intended and they fair better, like most Italian stuff they don’t like to be left in a garage and neglected as thats the worst thing possible prime example ducati of old and the belts. Plus the dealer network wasn’t as positive where I am. you’ve definitely had a quite varied bike experience, dont get me wrong love guzzi and so very nearly got one V7 or the V9 with those positive aspects you mentioned too but fully knowing the risks, the reason it lost out was because I most likely wouldn’t use it very often (daily or every weekend) and it would be my only bike so it’s more likely to be a poor experience for me and seeing guzzi as a brand. Maybe in the future .

More like having a very long fart while walking!!

or

Yea hope mini boi better quick! It might just do that, it’s a very early version of injection If it can’t have a reading it’s expecting, better to run rich than lean for engine conservation!

I’ve only seen one photo of you but if you bought that for yourself and you must either have massive hands or the smallest head of a child? Wow htf does the wife let you near a bank account??? lol Out still amazes me how proper fog completely screws the aspect of a road reading even if you know the road very well.

Thanks tinkicker. Looks more like your missing part no20, 19,18, 17, 10 that connect to the exhaust for the extra air to be introduced to be burnt at the exhaust pipe. Fuel tank overflows are very small pipes, and never had connectors mid point just one pipe straight down to the lowest point, has been on every bike I’ve ever owned. Air ones for airboxes and engines are bigger just like in this case, generally dry but a hint of oil vapour or moisture is a give away but if it’s been like that for a while it probably is dry. Another possibility but not for this bike if it had a clean air vapour canister, this cleans the air prior to pumping it out to the outside atmosphere and avoiding redirecting /recycling dirty contamination air within the tank/engine to the engine again as possible to not clogg it up.

So much better in green! not sure if that’s enough to disguise they see your face of joy prior to insectoires shoots/inserts/spunks their body all over your face!

Euro (German major rule is what I’d say had most weight) did their skullduggery and bs then the uk was weak as shite followed suit rather than say fook u or at least say well….its not bad but how about this????

Even Midget WMO’s wouldn’t look at them the first time! Just aget a bike that fit you right and looks good - their are plenty enough of them if you look hard enough. So the only reason you didn’t take the a cat was not flat footing a 700 for a test? well if you couldn’t get your head around that then most bikes are high bar cruisers and flats etc. Worst case I would have turned the preload down on a normal bike just for the test. Honestly imho I wouldn’t get hung up on a2 cat at all - I spent 4 happy years on a 500CC 46hp out of choice AFTER 4 years on a 955CC with 150hp….most shit a scare themselves and hardly use the full power of the bike with more than 100hp for the road anyway, rest is wasteful and for bragging. I could go into the finer details and points. maybe a different engine configuration would suit yourself better?

You’ll get use to it, like at 30mph at x revs you’re in x gear etc. Gear indicators aren’t all cracked up to be especially on older bikes anyway and the delay can be distracting. You’ll also get to know if your in first by feel and the amount of peddle lever moves, first generally has the longest throw and clicky feel to it especially jap bikes. Keep it up and you’ll get it nailed in no time.

Great way to improve! most SM car parks are ok for starters but are quite flat, be aware their painted lines and pools of fluids from vehicles parked up previously might be slippery. eventually you’ll might want to practice on hills afterwards. Question, so do you know why your most likely stalling? their are tips to help and speed things up for you. Is it the clutch actuation (letting out too soon) and or the revs to low before hand etc? these ain’t aimed at you directly but just incase someone else is reading for advice. hills/slopes you should rely heavily on the back brake (its not as strong and loves to drag) to help modulate drive/movement rather than anything on the front, that frees up hand control (and brain concentration) to the throttle and clutch better, makes it easier then the subconscious know what feels right so less concentration required. with the gears, (I’ll assume what as most newer riders do) you need to change down sooner (higher in the rev range) and up later (same again). dont worry about the engine and gearbox your not hurting it as their designed to work like that, then modulate it’s engagement with the clutch slower rather than just letting it out like what people think a racer does.

Yeah dont get worked up about it, its just like anyother round about…. look where your going (where you’ll end up -target fixation), read the road and assume other users have constant rage, no idea where, when, what or how road and vehicle works all the while they have magnets on to get you, for prizes. work on that basis so its tipped a bit safer for you.

Lol! Welcome to the Wife before bike , Wife now club. Im always an early riser (steady on) and she sleeps in. so prior to the birth of our daughter i use to just free wheel the bike away down a few streets away had afk least a few houses of blocking the noise prior to starting it up for a quick razz ( looked like I was nicking my own bike). Great as it just disturbed someone else down the road (most likely the weed mofos) but far more importantly didnt wake wife up as shes light sleeper…

Funny! so when you leave your car anywhere do you Mr Bean and take :-

I wont go into the other bikes but this requirement to that bike - holy moly, really?

Assume your birth year is 86? So around 38? Doubt it. if you have never ridden a mb before id say get the lessons at a training place first and the cbt done afterwards regardless. get some miles/saddle time and take the full quali afterwards or even progress to a higher classification before the expiration of two years.