RideWithStyles

Those are the oem ones? the after market version will be miles better…if you’ve liked them up to now I’d give the after market ones a try. If not then your choices are open, also keep an eye out on the pressures and wear patterns.

The other option ive just remembered for normal tubeless road bikes are Dunlop mutants these are a road bikes normalish looking tyres that could loosely fit into the all season hole in road motorcycle terms but are still rated M+S. might see and give these a go when I’ve worn out the z8’s.

Unfortunately not. Could be ok inside and the plates, just the seals affecting it? depends on how much of a cheap bas7ard you want to be by just changing the Master link…

Car all seasons (snow and hot weather) are brilliant all rounder, had different makes and on different cars and coped well with good layer of snow and ice. snow/mud specific tyres are very good, even in really hot weather, yes there is abit of a drop off if you really drive like a loon but still far more capable than a summer tyre can muster in winter when the risk of crashing in a small window of season is higher let alone frost, snow or ice. never tried them on a bike -I think apart from off road bikes etc not many options for normal road bikes. anlas range is….mostly alternative. if things change for me I might have to be more all season and weather rider, so I might be looking into trying them out in the future?…

Baking soda tooth paste and brush, then wash off with brake cleaner. Or Car detailers spray and clay bar.

Driving and riding are different and so must the attitude be towards. Its easier when young to go bike then learn car than learn car first to bike. Age? And flexible? Tall or short? Use case? personally I’d avoid sports bikes after 2010 we’ll certainly new ones- engines and chassis are far too focused for track, too much of a pain in the arse and wasted on the road as you’d struggle to tap into their use without killing or prison while on the road. road, roadsters, nakeds, half faired, gs even would be a better advice. Capacity only tells part of a story, it’s the configuration of the engine that counts with bikes not just dynamics but handling, cars less so. Bikes have more choices of singles, twins (flat, v, boxer), triples, or inline 4s,six’s, two stoke and four- all work different and have a great impact on how the bike works and engages with you….

They have a triangle sort of shape to there fitment. there are other types of head, round and square heads as the Japanese like to refers to, you may find your either a shoie or an Arai fitting. Other brands are somewhat around or between them.

Depends if it’s to actually wear or just to have on a shelf to look at. If they stopped selling it years ago the helmets will be old now, they do have a shelf and service life, which if this was to be worn I’d say look at something else.

Simply just like a cycling one in the city. The idea is its a mask the reduces warm breath to get the the visor, much like if you worn a surgical mask/face mask it muffles/slowy dissipates this but really for a helmet all at best is do is let you breathe in you own carbon dioxide again or just sweats your face out either is bad because there is less cold fresh air hitting the mask directly because of most helmets unless you rode piss pot helmet. if neck curtains on helmets are bad this is just million times worse. the problem fit with most of them theyre secured closer down you neck because of the helmet placement for the head so the pull down on your upper nose and cheek while not hugging around the chin and lower jaw… where as cyclists helmets sit on top and barely go much more the half way down the back of the head so fitment is easier.

Thanks Bonio. Even with that list as a guide to base something on, it’s just that , the insurance have their own numbers and rules to as and when it’s fitting to them. To be honest if you’re young and new to road craft, a 125 is still more than enough to kill you or anyone else double quick time. you say it’s retarded but its not, and its not biased towards you, your a huge risk to them and everyone else for many reasons… sounds stupid but it MIGHT still be cheaper long run if you can avoid claiming and build ncb. How much is a 125, insurance, fuel, tax and service it needs etc? How long will you keep the bike? = ncb and older to the insurance, If you then look at the difference of what you will loose when you want to swap and how much you’ll need to put more money into the next bike? then how much is the insurance and running cost etc difference to that one? then how much ncb will make a difference at what point.

I did with ritebike to shitebike.

A person I know in the early days with previous employer would let the team to place bets on who would kill or it would “die on” their use with the pool car (carver) / company car. Reason was quite logical, it encouraged them to go quickly about places (not breaking the law -thats on you), incentives to be competitive with others and have fun….that what he said. the other reason was because the “list of choices they were allowed were shite” the person in charge of company cars had no idea on what accounts as a remotely a nice car to use or live with , to add insult mostly of those shite cars were just as if not more expensive that something nice so like I said the person in charge of that was a complete incompetent fool. so the mission was to use it hard in the hope you pushed it just far enough that it went pop in someone else’s use/care. Then hopefully could get something else Much better. lets just say a lot of tyres and brakes got used up even discounting track days on it and got the unofficial medal of the most “used and expensive” car award amongst the branch ranks. the conversations with said manager as to while it was using consumables so quickly was amusing apparently.

That is terrible and mank at best! You’re inserting pretty much the second most bacteria infested part of your body (gut/stomach is the most) bacteria into your ear that doesn’t want it !!! Hence ear wax. Might aswell stick it up your arse first wthan your mouth, use water or light olive oil as its a good safe lube. (tap is ok, even puddle water would be better chance your mouth).

Well I know Tesco still means test your account of £99 (so reaaly its not taking it out its more asking the request of do you have it at the pump (pending) prior to taking delivery of fuel, and that is with the bank too as you can’t do it without the banks system authority regardless… more often than not, it’s instant refund fund of the difference £99 as it knows that you can afford the maximum amount at that exact time, then when you have finished with your delivery it charges your account with the amount of fuel you had taken of say £40… that’s how they do it. with others I don’t know if they do the same?

If you think it’s bad just think of the poor buggers (pedestrians etc) that have to hear it if they like it or most likely not as your going past…. so these ones are not road legal? you should have re searched and really think about what your purchase will have an effect or potential options availability. A poor choice will now cost you more…Well hopefully you'll remember next time.

Wonder if there is a H&S risk and form for that? Does the company have to supply a dark silent room to calm from bright or play dark satanic music in the back to counter the jolly retro fake play music for risk of them all turning into mad jokers?

You dont have to fully take it off, just unhinge the throttle body end one and go through the stroke with the lever first , if there is any notch or resistance bin it. might be the other way around? the cable has worn and chamfered or cut into the nylon inner side and that’s the resistance, either way just Makes no difference in the end , agree with Tinkicker just bin it and replace anyway.

Until you forget you app details

Paint on the swingarms and cases are poor, thin and weak, under coat problems. Wields especially near the rear axle are not great, rust problems there too so people/sales just use permanent markers to cover them up. Check headstock bearings as they do get wheelies and don’t cope too well with noobs doing it. Engines are good but make sure it has high level of oil and good stuff, servicing regularly and probably is a must I would say…if not just walk away- toads of them about so you can be picky.. forks depending on year are a mix bag of poorly factory set up (springs and valves) to oil choice. Shock’s as a unit isn’t terrible but it’s budget that gets extra greef, if it’s done a decent mileage it’s probably due a replacement. other than the usual Yamaha brake caliper needing a proper clean very often or the bind and seize before your eyes. early ones had fuel tank reader problems, either over read or under reading, and the possibility of not doing. not wishing to put you off as they are a great bike, that could be worth it even with a potential niggle. So to recap - they dont with neglect/lack of cleaning and service very well. if you do still wish to go for it - the latest and cleanest model you can.

Agree that system for your bike is really going to make you hate it. so say shite I think I need 16 ltrs because it’s almost dry but you have a Yamaha so the gauge and tank size is weird so you ask for 16 ltrs, only to fine it’s managed 13ltrs? wtf!!! So do you except that you’ve lost say £just over £4 and the petrol station earned a chunk for free or do you then go back to the cashier, wait in the queue yet again to ask for a return on the card? While everyone behind is either asking for fuel or asking for a refund just like you? But of course the refund might not be instant, you might wait for days for it to clear. I’d also think it wouldn’t be as cost effective for the station other than if they got your free money. WAFBA that doesn’t need to be. Well thats not progress or fast and the foolery of money going or not going places, EV charging could look more tempting for more people if it goes that slow and faffing.

Could be a number of problems, Let’s start with the easiest: check bolts,nuts and threads around the peg and its lever; 1,2,3,4. the joint or link bar between the peg (between 2&3) and the gb selector shaft could be loose have double nut (4), ball joints(3) could have split /pins to secure (4). could be that the if its a threaded bar that needs adjustment if your to far away (2/3) or major geared adjuster that goes over the selector shaft (that grips over the shaft) needs moving a few teeth (4), so the clamp needs to be moved a few teeth to lower the lever so you can positively pull it up better as your ankle only little movement. Try them first, come back.

The theory of that test is what you do is take the spark plug out, attach it to the plug cap again as it would be before you removed it- MAKE SURE TO PLACE OR HOLD THE SPARK PLUG THREADS TO THE ENGINE CASE or a bare metal part of the bike to ground it, try to start it and look it there is a spark while it’s trying. DO NOT HOLD OR TOUCH THE PLUG (or cap ideally) BARE HANDED OR EVEN WITH NORMAL GLOVES when you do this. Seriously don’t touch it will send arch the high current through you. now if you didnt do it that way their is a chance you have blow or damaged something, check fuses and wiring. if you have damaged the wiring you’ll need a volt meter to check. come back and let us know after this.

No the first time or third time Honda alone has dabbled in these thing over the time and every decade (R&D credits and returns) can make the whole thing nearly free or cost less depending on your situation. So many patents are applied and to the likes of Honda not a crum of bread to the cost and very few end to an actual production product, merely cash returns and safe guarding an possible route IF they were to go down that route in the future while not risking of walking into somebody’s else’s products, ideas, theories no matter how loose. i still see some possible issues but then again depending on how you see them.

The reflective coating like those is very good visually but it is VERY fragile. try not to fold or be rough handling with it. so to wash do not put in the washing machine no matter what cycle. mild hand soap, in the bath/sink for not too long (don’t soak) Luke warm warm water, rub very gently with a soft cloth. i suspect its more for casual walks and very long hill walking than biking or rougher work, not to say it wont work or is crap, some of there is is quite good if you keep everything in perspective. you might say yeah its cheap but will they do another one when you want one? Will it be as cheap? If your trying to save on cheap then the only way to rep the benefit is to make it last!