RideWithStyles

Westy I was referring to buds post, thinking on It will be either Avon (flames and white walls, Michelin (live wire), Dunlop more racy tyres they would use as there earlier ones D200s were shockingly bad.

So who one? The dept collector mostly and second the mobile supplier, the customer has been failed once again and suffered greatly for it.

I wouldnt discount that theory, rare yes but not strictly impossible.

Brother had one of the 650drags for a while, good bike, looks nice, sounds well even as std (but that’s up you your own interpretation), did two up aswell.

Carb icing is really when it’s really cold and more so at start up, unless your high up in the mountains in winter. for the answer of why it was really snappy…it was hotten up really well an works best at the upper end. Old bikes like carbs and the engines do a really good job but it’s a compromise! They are designed to work best at the upper end and bikes have a lot higher revs, but less crank/flywheel drag than a car. so more drag and just doing it once in one gear doesn’t do much or switch much on. So yes depending on the bike and ecu it could be an algorithm /setting you tapped into with the bike, performance or track if you wish to think of it in that way… so it may have adjusted the timing, spark, fuel, exhaust, air , coolant as a list it could do if the program allowed it. so if it was suddenly snapper off throttle then its not adding fuel or adjusting the timing to increase torque backup from the engine for drag. So it’s sort of applied rear brake in layman’s term. Less road friendly setting and More racer. But then after a very short time slowly goes back to what it was normally when you behave Normally then that is what is happening.

You have to be careful…. You really just can’t stop paying without notice without potential repercussions. Problem is you are still bound by the contract of the terms of the rolling contract that is connected to the original agreement… so if your now rolling contract states you must contact them to stop before you do you must. From the sounds of it they are just doing the security work that they must do but their service or the impatient/lack of time they allow doesn’t work all the time, typically three. when it re directed you most of the time it will be still there on the system in the background stacked but used a different app or page. i agree it is very annoying but at least now you know what you need to get ready and know about before you have another go with them.

Obviously we are looking at the back. photo looks straight with no fish eye on as the right side (confirmed with the connection, wires and frame) and the background on the left is perfect plus the right fin stack has had a different separation to its neighbours but it is straight. Contact, pressure, force, sudden temperature differences on a weak part. some rads are curved/concaved etc in the bike and car world. they have been bent which would be my first thoughts. Noticed The splitting/separating sections further up that looks like sound wave/coiled barbed wire. unless you suddenly had a impluse to try and use them like an accordion? . if a very sudden and different temperature of too hot or too cold air/rad/water in combination with a cheap/weak part that can do it. anyway if not, a best it looks like rough handling / poor mechanic skills with a weak component.

Well if you gulp at £200-500 tyres that wear out quickly, just think what’s it’s like for a manufacturer for a bike theyll never have to ride . It will be either Michelin or Avon, depending on the age and what bike it was supplied for.

Thanks tiggie! sometimes they say on the engine cases as the cast or a sticker. yeah so your just doing normal oil change so a litre is enough, if it had a completely stripped, cleaned and rebuilt engine it would need closer to 1.3. similar to Hondas 125c

Sounds like an ad… oem are different and made to primarily to a price point while hitting a few low criteria, helps if you get it from a homeland manufacturer. What you buy off the shelf is way better and nearly always cheaper than oem due to the higher volumes its producing even with better specs it brings. its simple formula with flintstones- T for touring, roads and distance, S for additional odd slow track day, R for faster track. very much a pigeon hole way thats easy to understand. s22, have about around 4-5mm of tread on the rear at most….t’s get closer to 8mm off memory. i take the increase claims (marketing bs) with a bucket of salt. Easy to play with numbers and percentages to make it seem greatly more but really it isn’t. Otherwise track tyres would all be doing well over 30thou easy by now….

Depends on the bike and what you put in it. nakeds take a little longer to heat up. Oil,air, water cooling engines have an impact as to how quickly it gains or loses heat. old engines with massive ports/passage ways and thinner jackets/walls made huge difference. Grade/type/spec/additive package of oil, including its level of degradation at that time. Thinner and more good synthetics additives the better it is at cold and hot temperatures than say a random semi with huge base stock and no additional - generally. the great thing about carbs it that they already told you when the engine was good to go as they are awkward and hesitant till they’re good and give it some more revs. electronic injection and good ecu mapping (old Hondas and ktms of a old era were shite in this regard) takes that away, so good now the rider has no idea when is right or not so you could just do a burn out from stone cold if you so wished unless you had a s1000rr which the bike would not allow you rev past a certain rev until it reached a parameter. Neighbour of mine is old school return biker- nice enough guy, modern ktm but goes about it like the old days. lets it sits on idle for about 10-20mins, turns it off, goes back inside to get changed, comes back 10-15min later, starts up again and lets idle for about 7 or so min and starts to struggle to wheel it out of the tight gate. takes a few moments more to be able to mount the bike then zooms off…not the best for that bike as they are designed to get gone straight away on the starter with a little sympathy for a mile or so. Very much the opposite to what my bike wants. design, manufacturing and materials are extremely good these days so the likely hood of bad damage is way less than it used to be but not impossible regardless. personally I’d still be careful and still go easy for a few miles.

Are you taking about hand signals or eager sexual movements ?

Sorry to see and say but if you see that bike again more than likely it will now have parts from a eBay scap mech from a stolen 30 thou mileage winter hack special…. Don’t ask me how I know other than it happened to me…

Once again EU bureaucrats fooook up in splendid fashion, spends a fortune on the run up and after the decision (that would clear a struggling country's debt- oh but WTF would they do that?) and time to make a legal decision to a “thing” possible that doesnt actually have a real purpose of solving it yet at best merely side winds it to compounding another one that no one had a problem with in the first place…. but I’m a cynic opinion of any or the uppermost hierarchy…

Yeah first things first it’s a Chinese made and part bike sold under newly business loosely named British brand. so id agree at looking at the wiring, loom and connectors and I mean actually really look at it! Unplug each section and really inspect it even under the over cover. They are well known to be too cheap, too tight (wrapped around the frame) and everything else bad under the sun.

Depends on the bike! I will generalise - More than likely you have broken the lug/ tab that hold the cable /sensor with the inner grip or the solder to the cable….not expensive to get another “as general” but a pain in the arse as you might be better changing the rubber grip /cable with the new inner throttle housing while your at it.

Now were actually getting a clearer idea…. How much above 12v is the bike putting back in the battery?? If its barely above 12 its bad…real bad it needs to be putting more like high 13-14v. reason is while it uses 12v or itself it needs to put excess energy back to the battery because it used load to start the bike and run it while its doing its thing untill its filled back up, unless you a have at loss recharge system/set up the racers did way back in the day/motogp…..which your bike doesn’t do for clarification. sounds like id be poking at the reg or its wires/connectors first, if not then the second will be a weak/dirty stator system. If all that really doesn’t come true then come back and we’ll all have to breakdown wtf is missing…

Temp as in air or coolant? that is actually important to know.

Seriously dont bother with the brake lever thing….its cringe worthy level of the steering wheel lock bars for cars in the 90’s-10s… it probably takes you longer to put on than them to take off, so terrible all it says about the owner to everyone else let alone a term served druggy filled thief, they laugh at and think their clueless owners don’t deserve that bike and im being kind. rear wheel through to a anchor (wall or ground) is one of the better ways, if you buy one extra long and the wheels/chain links aint too chunky go through the frame or something uneasily bolted/separated. front wheel too is nice but I wouldn’t solely depend on that at the front is really easy to take off….depending on how prepared scum are they just slave the wheel or just unbolt the wheel and load the bike ina van….your bike with a few scratches that they didn’t pay for is still worth more than not or being caught. spray gt85 in the lock mechanism and the pin/ball bearing detents Once every month if it lives outside exposed to the elements. if your Scotland every few week at least.

If you have the face recognition it’s a bit more secure again.

Got to agree. go as you feel, screw/don’t bother about the rest! top respect to the Auntie! Yep I’ve done it and at over half the age. double checking the lever is a good idea and a habit I’ve gotten into on the roads and I only have to appease myself. I hope it’s not OCD now lol but a bad habit to have/keep for when you need / still to-pass a test… . yeah best this to concentrate on the positives and throw the negatives out of the window (ideally someone else’s incase you miss). Biking has a higher risk than most other modes of transport and expensive leisure, if you can’t mentally get round than then unfortunately your gonna be in internal state of mind foggle and increase the risk of harm to yourself due to your own actions…

MotoGb have been “difficult” for so many years its gone beyond a laughing matter, more of amazement of when rather than if…

If I could have one more bike/vechicle it would be one/what ever my wife could ride. . If it was solely for me I’d probably go electric like a livewire or something like that…

Why would you select 1, 2 or 3? Label looks like a furby.