RideWithStyles

going

fairly common here but over your way not sure how good the database is or how much it would cost you. id only bother to check it if you believe the bike's condition is good and everything seems to be in order first, then check the vin but if the bike doesnt have papers anyway to check first hand while your looking at in in person id walk away but how things work on your side of the world may be less bothered.

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well at your height the best is getting one that is particular to your unless you want to look and feel of being king kong on a mini bike, As IFF was told and worked it out eventually. i will put forward Honda xl125v varadero, used (so cheaper) but tuff and built more like a normal size bike (normal dimensions), been round for ages so no surprises. v twin is not gustless and not needing 10k revs to keep up with traffic compared to singles. your only wanting to sit on it for a year or two at max? no point spending more on a new/newish bike then have to loses more only to spend more to get the next bike. if tou drop a newer bike, youll be pissed off and prices for parts have gone up on the newer model bikes.

ok good but not sure why youd wet it? earths and ground wires are the good and clean? could be a shortening of a wire, check connectors and loom.

poor ones are £1k decent old ones are 1.5, newer ones are 2k

get well soon! i mean really soon as i thought post office red is ment to be a red, not KTM orange....

Some

Geofs post of the last saying its a grey area i see too but still went over line of very wrong. same as nick, their all just plain wrong. Not much balance of circumstances that include weight of under duress or like the test of - 5 random people on one track and 1person you know on the other which one do you send the train down sort of thing....

finding a rack is one thing but the fitting plate and case/topbox to match it is another thing. when you say too wide, how much or why?

metal or plastic? you could cut them down to make a difference that the spring makes due to its length and strength. so if the spacer is 10cm and the spring is 2cm difference and you had the preload at say 7 or more out of ten applied previously -how much difference does each line/wind does it do to the spring? 1-2mm? you could minus those off the spacer too to help counter the new spring.

problems, price, weight, battery, distraction/adaption, fogging/rain and structural integrity to pass safety standards just to name a few.

just

the Svart is probably the most uncomfortable road bike designed (over 75%seat but rest is handle bar placement, thats the reason its a deal also dealers struggling to shift there stock of them what they have to have in, of the margins they dont want to sell them for less than retail. but that doesn't mean thats a bonus for the seller at resale. 0h and they share the same components as the ktm as its their parent company but you have to pay more for it. watch out for head gaskets. Cino - yes they look nice and cheapish but seriously no dont get it as it will be a rust bucket in a year with corroded ground points that just add fuel to the fire of the cheap electrics and tight looms, fogging clocks and headlights, access to parts is rare and hard to get (if you luckly its only a three month wait off the boat from china's as they dont have a distribution system for parts) to get angood luck getting anyone to look or fix it beyond a dealer (which are few and less all the time) resale value are....just throw it in the skip yama is the most interesting over the honda.

sounds silly but did you wind the preload adjusters fully out too proir to fitting the caps? how thick are the washers?

reduce

very nice! but not a fan of the stubby, to me doesn't suit it.

Hi. yes the c is a californian spec so its pretty much the cleanest model of it type at that time (emission saving design in 85...). as nick says really. anyway the general rule is if its close to the pass grade from std then just simply a tweak to the carbs/injecting, air box/filter and exhaust will be enough if it doesn't bugger up the rideability too much. there are things you could try to add (cannisters and extra baffles etc) but that depends on if that can be added or works with the old timer...the further away you are as std or modified to the pass the harder it is to get it to pass. mine is a bandit 650s k5 2005 carb is still in the pass mark as bog standard for now, no doubt as the years tick on the pass mark will get a hellofalot higher and tighter no matter which arseho they sit behind that desk,so ill either have to tweak it or change it, so if advice was going id say newer it is the better long term.

see bullet clips are just shite, so much better now! now i will say that is a poor job done but still the same. got slated when mentioned not to use bullet clips but a proper fixed solder solution is just better on a different thread.

but in reality your forcing/fighting a stronger spring which makes it more difficult without better tools or techniques.

they are shorter because the coils are tighter packed, stronger but also thicker.

yes we are familiar with those chinese bikes...nearly all the owners wanting advice because their broken.

then she'll be even more stupid and get a bigger car that she can't control nor park any better.

baf