Cracked my sump

[Westbeef]

Changed the oil and cleaned the strainer today, everything went perfect, until I torqued up the sump bolt. Didnt reach the 30Nm it is supposed to be before the sump cracked. Its a small crack, oil is very slowly seaping from the crack. Ive had the bike up to running temp and it still isnt dripping out. Ill get a picture up later, but is there anything I can do without replacing the whole sump?

[Stu]

no no no no no!

never torque sump bolts

Torque values are based on clean dry threads

Always do the bolt up then nip it up and check for leaks/drips

Is the sump removable on those bikes? if so you could replace it or get is welded if its all built in to the crank case then the only way will be welding

Some will recommend chemical metal but I have never used it so can't say if it will work

[Westbeef]

no no no no no!

never torque sump bolts

Torque values are based on clean dry threads

Always do the bolt up then nip it up and check for leaks/drips

Is the sump removable on those bikes? if so you could replace it or get is welded if its all built in to the crank case then the only way will be welding

Some will recommend chemical metal but I have never used it so can't say if it will work

 

Aye I have learned that lesson now! About 3 different sources on the web said I should torque it up. What issues will I have running it with this crack? It would need a lot of work to take the thing off its not just a case of undoing a few bolts.

[Stu]

I think its all part of the crank case to remove it!

If you run it like that then you will leak oil the crack could get worse and you could lose the sump plug

if its a small crack I would look at getting a weld run on it

to do this you will need to drop the oil and clean it all up and remove the battery before welding

you could get it done in the bike but you will have to get the bike on its side or up in the air and you will have to either trailer it or use a van to get it to a welder

[TimR]

Try ... heating the surrounding area with a fan heater ( not direct heat such as blow torch or paint stripper) cleaning it with brake and clutch cleaner .applying a small bead of rtv sealant and then dress with a chemical metal that is oil resistant.

[Westbeef]

Heres a picture of the damage, the washer doesnt look to clever either.

[TimR]

Hmmm you could try applying a rtv sealant in the threads of the sump plug and this may be enough to seal but you run the risk of breaking it more when re tightening .

Is there a washer on that plug ?

[Six30]

Doh !!

[Westbeef]

Hmmm you could try applying a rtv sealant in the threads of the sump plug and this may be enough to seal but you run the risk of breaking it more when re tightening .

Is there a washer on that plug ?

 

The washer is just extra-crushed it went from ok to this in half a turn . I have some araldite would that work as a temporary fix? I might speak to a garage and see what they can do for me and for how much.

[Stu]

the sealant route will work fine on that

when you re tighten it just nip it up

[Westbeef]

Just so I'm clear :-

I need to drain it again, I assume I can save the oil and put it back in?

I'll get a new washer, and I need to put some RTV on the plug and retighten it? This time just nipping it by hand (No bloody torque wrenches )

[Stu]

yeah oil should be fine providing you don't get anything in it

Your hardest job will be cleaning the area up

[Westbeef]

Excellent thanks, do I still need the chemical metal on the outside too?

[bonio]

Changed the oil and cleaned the strainer today, everything went perfect, until I torqued up the sump bolt. Didnt reach the 30Nm it is supposed to be before the sump cracked. Its a small crack, oil is very slowly seaping from the crack. Ive had the bike up to running temp and it still isnt dripping out. Ill get a picture up later, but is there anything I can do without replacing the whole sump?

 

Gutted for you.

[Stu]

Excellent thanks, do I still need the chemical metal on the outside too?

 

you may as well to be sure

[TimR]

☆You can still apply chemical metal and to keep external pressure on use a jubilee clip☆

Scrap that just relooked at picture not much room really to do that

[Joeman]

Can you get a jubilee clip around it to clamp the crack closed?

[Mr Fro]

STOP!

Before you do anything, have a look at Stahlbus oil drain valves. I've put them in the both the bikes and they're great. You could easily araldite/chemical metal it in permanently and still be able to change your oil. You could use it as an upgrade point when you come to sell too.

Ideally you should get that TIGged up but that will be a sump off job to get it clean enough to fuse properly and then chase the thread.

[cockercas]

Repaired my van sump with cemical metal.

It only lasts about 6month before oil seeps through.

To.clean it up i used a wire brush on a drill/brake cleaner then a blowtorch to make sure there was no oil left on the outside.

Just a thorght though, i remember MRFRO installing a sump valve mabey you could seal one of them inplace.

[cockercas]

STOP!

Before you do anything, have a look at Stahlbus oil drain valves. I've put them in the both the bikes and they're great. You could easily araldite/chemical metal it in permanently and still be able to change your oil. You could use it as an upgrade point when you come to sell too.

Ideally you should get that TIGged up but that will be a sump off job to get it clean enough to fuse properly and then chase the thread.

 

Should of checked page 2

[Westbeef]

Can you get a jubilee clip around it to clamp the crack closed?

Unfortunatley no, the rearside of that boss is almost flush with the bottom of the sump so it wouldn't fit.

 

STOP!

Before you do anything, have a look at Stahlbus oil drain valves. I've put them in the both the bikes and they're great. You could easily araldite/chemical metal it in permanently and still be able to change your oil. You could use it as an upgrade point when you come to sell too.

Ideally you should get that TIGged up but that will be a sump off job to get it clean enough to fuse properly and then chase the thread.

 

They do look quite good actually, I'm going to do stuck the plug back in with sealant on for now to keep me going and have a look at that for a more permanent fix in the new year. I had a quick look and one website didn't do one for my size bike can I can keep looking.

[Mr Fro]

You sure about that beefs? Check your sump plug and get the correct thread.

[Hoggs]

oh beefy....

to file under WELL IT'S TOO BLOODY LATE NOW anything under 70nm you can just tighten by hand and it'll probably be fine

[Glorian]

Oh shit .. Sorry to read that beef.

[Westbeef]

oh beefy....

to file under WELL IT'S TOO BLOODY LATE NOW anything under 70nm you can just tighten by hand and it'll probably be fine

 

Well I'm just a top notch moron but to be fair I've trusted this guy before and he's always been spot on. I also found some YouTube videos saying the same thing. Lesson learned, I'm only using that thing on the bloody wheels now.

 

You sure about that beefs? Check your sump plug and get the correct thread.

 

The website I found let you type in your bike and it said nothing available. It's an M12 plug, I just need to find out what pitch the thread is as they do two of those valves.

Edited December 5, 2016 by Westbeef