TimR

Have you recently had it serviced or oil change?

Try it for a few days as is see if you get used to it . If not i would look at adjusting the linkage rods to lift the lever upwards as it sounds like in the fall its placed a lot of pressure on it and possibly bent lever downwards as well. This will mean that as you place your foot under the lever to lift it doesn't need a lot of movement to select and then by moving the lever upwards it gives your foot a bit more room under the lever to lift without too much pressure . The rod i mean is what links your gear lever to the engine it will be a length of steel rod with a nut either end and it screws into the lever and the clamp on the engine . It will need the nuts to be loosened a few turns whilst holding the rod with a pair of pliers ( normally one nut will undo one way and the other will undo the opposite direction )and then watching the lever twist the rod with the pliers until you see the lever going upwards . Keep turning till it has gone up a few millimitres(5 at most) then tighten the nuts whilst holding the rod and then try the bike out . If its still seems sensitive adjust it again upwards but if it get to a point if where it requires a lot of foot movement to change gear you have gone too far and it may be a case of the internal selector has been worn by the continuous pressure of the gear lever sticking and may require changing

Does it have oil in it and has it done this since the bike came out of hiding ?

Or things i would attempt but cant say to try Remove clutch casing cover and using a rubber/ wooden mallet twat the clutch basket Place bike on centre stand with a wall quite close to front wheel . Get on bike . Start bike . Get it into top gear with a bit of revs and holding it tight and feet on floor ... push forward so bike comes off stand but wall makes contact with tyre .. If you have a hill or a helper try a variant of bump start the bike but with ignition off and in top gear ... see if it works but make sure you have plenty of room in if it doesnt free ( i accept No liability)

A. has anything happened to it recently ? Dropped ,serviced etc B.Does the bike roll when not in gear C.Does the bike roll when in gear and clutch pulled in ( engine off) D.How long have you been riding ? E.Does it stall as soon as you select first ie pull clutch in , select gear Or is it F. Pull clutch in select gear . Slowly release clutch and apply throttle then stall

I would still be careful especially as it was a job lot . Make sure you check the v5 vin number matches the frame If he doesn't have a v5 or there is no frame number ..walk away .dont except any excuses or stories .juet walk away Its common to have different keys but as others have pointed out it does ring alarm bells especially on certain desirable models. The steering lock will be the second issue as that will be need to be drilled to break lock etc and if you cock it up you will not be able to replace the lock Fuel cap will need drilling to open . Helmet lock csn be removed generally by cutting the locking bar out with saw to access the retaining fixtures. Seat lock again drill the lock . Using a screwdriver can cause more issues if the lock mounts break with the lever force/impacts My advice would be look on eBay for a complete lock set and replace all

Check brake hoses for any signs of crushing/ damage . It may be the hose bore not allowing fluid back quick enough and it eventually closes under the pressure

Just dont use it for butt cheek flossing #chaffing

Thats a different style arrangement to the bike in question FB iirc the bolt also houses the return spring instead of normal extension spring

I would try to bend the lever out a little bit and see if that cures the issue ( gently with a large screwdriver/pry bar/crowbar (or anything of a sturdy nature that will give same result)

My first impression its where the pivot point of the lever ( where it attaches to the bike ) tbe bush/ bearing has worn or the bolt has loosenen Or B that by the rusty Marks on the gear lever is that its been bent. But has this just started doing it or has it been a ongoing issue .

Check that the bolt hasn't undone that its causing the fouling Check the clamp bolt on the gear lever hasn't loosened and allowed the gear lever to travel further Check if applicable the adjuster rods have not loosened and caused excessive travel on the lever Or if you have dropped said bike check what Hoggs says . Its bent

Imagine what state his mates would've been in if he'd started spouting blood, bled out and died there and then when they removed the wood. I get the impression the video would just have a slightly different conclusion possibly ending with the word 'Bugger'

Zzrd ....oooh fun. I take it they dont have to top adjusters as the e series .. you need to compress the disk in the top of the fork and remove the small circlip I used to place a socket sitting within the fork top . And i had a workbench that by slightly compressing the fork i could fit the fork/socket underthe bench top which pressed the disk down enough to remove the clip And then gently remove the fork bearing in mind there is small pressure on that disk . Check out zzrinternational.co.uk for handy hints

1 do you have the correct licence for it to be unrestricted ? 2 do you have the correct insurance for it to be unrestricted . 3 if its happened since the restrictor was re installed ... its due to that .

Its one less thing to worry about As said check in owners manual for clutch adjustment .

Is the side stand down ? Adjust clutch as per owners handbook If still does it check the side stand switch

If you have paddock or centre stand .. Put bike on it . Sit on bike Start bike get it in gear Feather back brake and release Get a bit of speed up / higher gears .do a full clutch in and stomp on the pedal .. Stop get off and check brakes out .

Have you ridden it yet ? Things may free up/ square up after a few uses . Check fluid level .. if overfilled it can stop the piston returning Depending on pad retention method it could be a bent retaining pin .. I tend to give the caliper a few twats with a wooden/ rubber mallet after a rebuild and refitted to settle things in a bit

Drain and swill tank Flush pipes Drain and flush carbs/ injects Refill with petrol Try starting ....will run smokey to start ... If running ok carry on .

Which side did it fall on As above check /change bulb ... If that doesn't work it may be ( if the bike fell on its right side) damaged/disconnected/broken wiring on that indicator . As the rear one works the fuse is intact .

Go to a well stocked shop and try them on ... J&S etc Fit is the key over looks

Normal yes Possible yes Damage .... minor possibility if executed wrongly damaged/worn selector forks and wear on the edges of the gears Risk of not engaging a gear at the correct required time

If using a metallic bladed scraper be careful especially on sensitive/crucial faced areas that you dont score/gouge as it can lead to non sealing of the gasket ( head gasket areas ) especially on softer metals

Score the old gasket sections preferably with a hard non metallic scraper. Soak with wd40 . Preferably use a non metallic scraper to remove the remains. Brass wire brush is a handy tool .