TimR

Score the old gasket sections preferably with a hard non metallic scraper. Soak with wd40 . Preferably use a non metallic scraper to remove the remains. Brass wire brush is a handy tool .

Fork seals tend to go for one reason. A damaged travelling area . Check the stanchions for any imperfection before replacing the seals . Any corrosion or small dinks can be smoothed out with wet/dry paper of different grades. Make sure any section of stanchion the seal has to travel over on its journey to its intended location is clean and smooth otherwise you will rip the seal . ( fork oil)Wet/grease the seals lips before installing Pattern parts are fine as long as you don't go for the cheapest from overseas type .

Plus check too see if it the correct fuse rating as standard as previous may have incorrectly replaced it with wrong amperage

Is it an old style glass fuse ? They are prone to vibration blowing and old age and can be one of those things It's done it' job and seeing it didn't blow the new one instantly it can not be a serious fault . This is not saying there's no issue but it may be a chafed wire that catches now and again but it's not a direct short

Five fingered shoes ....?

No experience but http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/tips/forkrestoration/forkrestoration.htm

I always use an airline! Never had one fly out or hurt someone But then I know to place something in the calipers to stop them coming all the way out With opposed piston calipers the pistons can't fly out because the other half of the caliper is in the way. No but they come out with a force that will split skin and crush misplaced fingers Young yts in daihatsu garage i worked in learnt the hard way .. fingers curled in the caliper ... applied the air .lost the tips of two fingers due to the damage the pistons created

Hmm. Talking about a 125 though... you may be right, but I've read a few places where they suggest that this is the case, I.e. Ride for 10-15 minutes at highish revs to recharge fully from a single electric start. just ride as normal no need to thrash it

Check the physical size as well. And 10-15mins at 5000rpm ...noooo All it needs is to be over the idle speed for that period .the alternator will tend not to charge at idle at initial start up and requires a higher rpm for the circuitry to kick in . Even cruising at 70+ in fourth my bike doesnt go over 4k ...so not sitting there for 15mins at 5k to recharge battery All you need to test is a multimeter and the knowledge

Your not wrong with the clutch . A car uses a dry clutch whilst a bike uses a wet clutch . So yep trying slipping clutch in car gives that unmistakable odour

Bike pump/ airbed compresor with the airbed attachment pressed into the inlet hole .. DO NOT USE A AIRLINE unless you want to hurt yourself or someone ..the pistons fly !

Which section though The 50mph or nsl ? And if a 50cc can use it at 33mph top whack ...

You may have to undertake gmp training that is basic knowledge of what your carrying and NHS protocols You will learn places as you go on but you may do route training to the more popular destinations .

Did five years for SERV surrey and south London . Varies from group to group but induction may be a case of getting a reasonable number together to undertake it. Remember the people you are contacting are volunteers as well and may have a day/night job . . When out riding ... ride to make your destination safely regardless of the load requirement . Your not helping if you don't deliver and end up needing the product yourself.

Dont tense up its hard we all know that . Left hand bends are tricky for a beginner especially those that require steering input by the bars as your right arm is twisting tbe throttle in effect pulling the bar backwards and to turn left your fighting that .

Normal corners you shouldnt need clutch slip but junctions and roundabouts you may .dont release the clutch quickly on setting off

It comes with practice. Clutchslip will help . Its where you slowly release the clutch so that the bike begins to move and you then alter that position gently to still have movement and control coupled with the throttle . It may seem like your revving the bike but it gives you more balance and slow control. Try in straight lines to pull off slipping the clutch and getting your feet on the pegs but keep slow and steady . Ask them for a demonstration .

Some of it IS LAW and it gives you the reference to the relevant legal bit

Check basics Enough fuel Battery terminals tight Clean and correctly orientated fuel filter Good fuel flow from tank ( from tap and from carb end of pipe )

Sounds like the main jet is blocked Any recent issues Run out of fuel Filled with fuel in the rain or after washing bike Filled fuel from a can .any recent work

Air filter Cloudy petrol ?. Do you mean the fuel filter ?

Watch something like "> or similar if unsure https://www.riejuparts.co.uk/collections/mrt-50-black-2014/products/mrt-50-2014-wheels-and-brakes If you look in the parts diagram you will see there are spacer tubes in your wheels between the bearings .. DO NOT FORGET TO PUT THESE BACK IN ( this is possibly what your seeing )unless you have a tube like object in the pile of bits ...

The ring is only as deep as your new bearing . There may be recesses behind it to drift from the rear of it or enough lip to drift it from various points of its lip ( hit it in 4 different places like 12 oclock 3 oclock 6 and 9 and do that until it comes out . Replace any bearing thats been removed for new its easier and more cost effective to replace in pairs

You will need to get it from the other side with a hammer and a punch .But you may need to knock the opposite bearing out first from this side ...but look for any casting lines inside the wheel before going mad with the hammer ... Once you have knocked that ring out you can use it to drift the new bearings in as it will sit on the outer edge of the new bearings

You need to knock the old outer race out ..part of the bearing is still in there The bit between your arrows is part of the old bearing .