TimR

Another reason not to return back http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-39488291

Speak to your local environmental health section at council they will have a list of recommended contractors and ways of disposal

Why ruin that lovely experience of no matter how hard you try ...of dropping the sump plug into the drain bowl .... not lining the drain bowl up correctly ...have the lovely feeling of warm oil running down your forearm .

Is it a new bike / old bike Possibilities Check front forks for seal leakage Check front suspension settings match each other Fork oil levels mismatched Fork internals damaged Forks not level in the yokes It may be a bent fork stanchion not returning fully Brakes may be binding on one side Bearing may be seizing on one side It may be all in your mind It may be that particular stretch of road

With kids involved remember you will need to check seat belt mounting locations for rear http://www.caravanguard.co.uk/news/motorhome-seat-belts-time-belt-10291/

To really get a good level of comfort and build to get bikes in the back as well you would need a 7.5 t lorry or large Winnebago style . . Even lwb merc vans you would be cramping the living section especially to shmbo levels of comfort . Best bet is if licence allows Get a campervan and a bike trailer .

When the second gear goes it tends to be as you power on it will disengage completly as if your not in gear and you need to reselect it . Reading your description its as if its losing power and jerking not jumping out of gear ( correct me if im wrong) I would just check a few basic things first . Battery connections are tight .( as these loose will give a impression of power loss but not consistently and more in the lower power range ) Sidestand switch not fully extending back in to running position ( had this happen where set off for 1/2 mile and when exited a 30mph zone and power on it would stutter and lose pulling power but as soon as clutch was pulled in it stopped doing it ) . Bit of wd40 and a wiggle on the plunger pin with pliers soon sorted that . Check plug leads are on correctly ( if you can run it in the dark ( proper dark) somewhere and be able to see the leads would be good) then look for blue tracking sparks off the leads/coils as it may be a lead breaking down under load ( plus its a funky light show just dont touch the little barstewards) . Check your clutch adjustments and tolerance as it may be an indication that your clutch is begining to slip . Again im just reading your description as i see it so please feel free to correct

Don't think my old Tandy/radio shack speaker enclosures construction manual still exists but i would in all fairness go with .. Ebay.co.uk search "brand" empty speaker enclourses/ cabinet before going down the nightmare or construction . Especially for a personal band . It will cost you a lot of time and effort and if any quality issues occur you will not hear the end of it . It used to be chipboard in the old Ev pa gear i used and replaced a few panels with loft boarding but that was mainly for disco based sounds not for live vocals

No makers name on the tacho or where you bought it from . Some online sellers have the instructions in the advert for the items

No darling i said i wanted to take you up the cliffside pass !

Is possible to replace forks without splitting but its fiddly . Good place for info is zzr-international.co.uk Its one of my go to places to pick brains / gleam info for my zeds

Just wondering if you didnt tick a box on the nip/declaration where it asks if you were a. The driver or B. You were not. And even though you submitted licence and paid fine iwondering if it would show as not disclosing on their system . ?

I don't need to do that! I can do oil and filter without taking anything off And thank god for that ( his wife adds )

And what removes all those lovely metal bits stuck on the magnetic sump plugs .... Old kwaks have dual level sumps so it would be a mission to make sure you got it all.

Are these genuine yamaha fittings or generic ebay replacements ?

Really really stupid question .... the kill switch isnt off is it ? Glad to hear your on the mend But good news that the engine at least turns . Did they try with the ignition switch on or off . As with it turned on it may start so at least you will know if that side of things work fine .

http://www.spyrabase.co.uk/category.php?categoryID=1905 Gold standard sold secure rating

Taken at newlands corner if if not mistaken by the building

You may have over/incorrectly adjusted it so that its constantly placing pressure on the clutch mechanism this will cause the clutch to slip and will get worse the more you ride . You should have a amount of freeplay at the lever ( depends on different bikes but say 3-5 mm ) this is where you can pull the clutch lever intowards the bar BEFORE it does anything( start pulling on the cable ) If there is too much freeplay you wont get sufficient clutch operation to change gear sufficently/smoothly If there is too little/no freeplay its basically making the clutch work when it shouldnt be and will wear components quickly .

Could be something in tank that blocked the tap especially if the internal filter has got holes in it or been dislodged . It may have worked its way into the tap and switching it has dislodged the obstruction .may be worth draining the tank and inspecting the taps internals and give the tank a flush .

In the original post you say its not the clutch slipping but then ask about the symptoms of a slipping clutch . Slipping clutch Engine will rev but not transfer that power to the wheels It will become more noticable on hills (going up) or when load is placed on the engine ( acceleration) . It can result in metal on metal contact in the clutch basket . 99% of bikes clutches are designed to be bathed in oil . If its gone after 1900 miles then there is either an adjustment issue or a riding style issue . The oil change may just be the catalyst for highlighti g it with different oils properties . Or do you need to bleed the oil system after an oil and filter change ? Did you rebuild the filter components correctly?

When you filled with oil did you fill from the oilcan or from a measuring jug ? Is there any chance you dropped something into the filler ? Missing any sockets .... is it stony in the work area .

Rather than you have a huge foray of posts . Check kill switch is in correct position Any alarm/ immobiliser is disarmed check fuel level is sufficent Check tap position Check the tanks fuel output by disconnecting pipe ( fuel may leak ) Listen to see if fuel pump is priming If no priming noise check fuses for relevant fuse is intact Check other fuses related to ignition system Check fuel pump output by finding the engines input pipe and disconnecting and turn ignition on ( again fuel will/may leak) Either purchase an inline spark tester or remove a plug and reattach lead and rest plug on engine . Try starting engine looking for a strong blue spark. Battery voltages seem within limits

Has it been running ok since exhaust done at all ? Have you got enough fuel in it or recently run low on fuel . Carb icing would have to be near freezing temps Any history of recent work on the bike ?

No worries Chris but just in case Dimensions are Centre of stud hole to stud hole 6.8cm/outer edge of stud hole to outer edge of stud hole 7.6cm Pipe diameter 4.3cm Total clamp length 8.5cm