Joeman

Go local and ask them to price match the online store. They might not be able to totally match the price but then it's worth paying for the service of someone to help you out and get your sizes right and to take the stuff away same day. That's worth more than the saving you get online. Trying stuff in in-store then ordering online should be illegal as it's not fair on retailers and and if everyone did it there would be no stores left!

I took the phone back and the girl i spoke to in the shop told me they always cringe when they know one of those emails has been sent out as it sounds so nasty and they never know how the recipient will react. Had the manger have been there I would have said something like "oh you're the one sending me the nasty emails then" and laughed it off. Seems they really don't like sending them out. No point having a go at anyone in the store, it's clearly corporate policy to send out emails designed to scare people into submission. It not a nice way to do business, but then which large corporations are nice to customers these days??

As manuel would say KEH ! Surely you mean Front wheel on the floor = front brake Or Back wheel off the floor = Front Brake You've never had a wheelie go bad have you.. with the front wheel in the air, the rear brake is your lifeline!

Final and correct words. To anyone finding this thread , ignore the advice of the rider who's probably never ridden on anything other than tarmac and think about the actual science around braking. If bottoming out your forks was a good idea, why don't they build forks that just lock up when you pull the brake lever?? Why allow the front of the bike to dive so much altering the geometry when according to our friend solid forks are best?? Because it's not true that's why! Roads are more bumpy than race tracks hence the reason for more suspension travel and more ground clearance than a race bike. You are basically telling people to ignore actual science and do what they feel works best with no scientific method of measuring the results.. let their blood be on your hands! I actually don't think you are bottoming out your forks. I think your think you are, but I bet you're not because if you were the bike would feel terrible. You know you are wrong, you know the science all points to the opposite of what you're saying and you know you can't hold a sensible debate about it, hence your dismissive last message.. Just Google it if you don't want to listen to me. Bottomed out front (or rear) suspension is never a good thing and you should certainly not be advising people to do it.

The great thing about physics is that it will always work. It doesn't give a crap about yours or anyone elses opinion. Fully bottomed out suspension is not the optimal way to brake - that is a well proven fact and why racing suspension costs more than a most road bikes. Once again, if your suspension is bottoming out, you need it adjusting or stiffer springs. Take that onboard or don't, I really don't care!!

It was 4:30am, i had nothing better to be doing! Lol

To your first point - fully compressing the front forks will mean maximum load on the tyre, maximum compression, and so maximum grip which is what I would want. I can't see why anyone would want anything else if they needed to stop quickly. In fact, if I put my bike in 'Rain' mode it automatically softens the suspension, making it easier to compress the forks as an aide to braking in the wet. To your second point - if I was able to use my rear brake without locking the wheel/triggering ABS then I wouldn't be braking anywhere near as hard as my bike can achieve. In both cases it's basic physics at play. You always want your suspension to follow the contours of the road. With the forks fully bottomed out you are using the tyre flex as suspension. Not a good idea as tyres are not designed to act as suspension. You need to understand the concept of sprung and unsprung mass. You want to keep unsprung mass to a minimum in order for your suspension to work well, hence light weight wheels.. With forks fully bottomed out, your unsprung mass effectively increased from a few kg (weight of wheel and tyre and brakes) to many hundreds of kg (total weight of the bike plus rider) this then causes the tyres to start acting as suspension.. Since we are talking physics, tyres are essentially an undamped spring, so they are able to recoil at almost the same rate they are compressed and since they are undamped they will oscillate. Because they are an undamped system the recoil from the tyre can cause the front tyre to unload rapidly lifting the front of the bike up thus reducing the contact patch size and reducing your brake efficiency. Your front tyre will skip across the road surface rather than following the contours. Your tyre pressure will dictate the maximum contact patch for the bike and rider weight, so the ideal setups is to brake hard enough to achieve maximum contact patch size whilst still leaving some suspension travel to soak up bumps in the road. This will mean if you hit a bump under hard braking the force is absorbed and damped by the forks keeping the front tyre in contact with the ground rather than being absorbed and recoiled by the tyre causing the contact patch to reduce... Triggering the rear ABS doesn't make the front brakes brake less. They are two independent braking systems so you can be braking as hard as you like on both brakes without reducing the braking force generated by the other. In a full emergency stop situation you're not initially going to get much braking from the rear due to the rapid weight transfer to the front, but any time the rear tyre is on the ground, you may as well be standing on the brake pedal and letting the ABS decide how much braking it's going to allow the rear to do. That's the whole point of ABS brakes. Brake really really hard and let the computer calculate the maximum braking allowed by the tyres and road conditions. My bike has anti flip to stop me flipping the bike over forwards on the brakes, something that's very possible on sports bikes if you snatch the front brake. But again not a problem on mine as the computer won't let me flip the bike over.

You don't really want your forks to fully compress and bottom out. If they do then you probably need to adjust your suspension or fit stiffer springs. Using the rear brake won't cause the front to be any less efficient so as long as the rear tyre is still in contact with the road, you may as well be using the rear brake to help slow you down.

Yep, two separate braking systems. Even bikes with ABS have two reservoirs. I think so that if you have a fluid loss from one brake you still have fluid in the other and you'd at least have one working brake.

Shoei GT-Air with Sena S20s

It's the other way round on mine. Applying the front also applies the rear brake, but I can switch off linked brakes by selcting specific rider modes. Aye. Mine also Joe. (When it's been bled right. Pain in the arse to do) Mines dead easy to bleed... Once you've purchased the mega-expensive GS911 BMW diagnostic tool, just plug in the laptop and press the "bleed front" or "bleed rear" buttons.

It's the other way round on mine. Applying the front also applies the rear brake, but I can switch off linked brakes by selcting specific rider modes.

I guess that answers that one then!!

What you meant to say was. "I have a broken tachometer, I have no idea what it does or how to fix it so I'm going to just hack it off using the first vaguely sharp implement I can grab with no thought for what it's going to look like or what I'm going to do with the bit still poking out of the engine.."

Yeah, waiting a few weeks before doing anything.. It's the first phone I ever insured.. 14quid a month I think it costs plus 60quid excess, so not cheap but I read the reviews on the S8+ and they all said it's highly likely to smash the screen and sure enough three months in, I've smashed it. If I get to keep the old phone each time I break it, I'm going to make a tidy profit!

That's sucks.. s7 is a good phone too. I'm still using my broken one, so have a brand new S8+ just sat on the shelf. Waiting for anyone to contact me asking for the broken phone back!

Nice bike six! But I know the real reason your bought it ... It's got a big knob under its arse end they you can reach down and fiddle with whilst on the move...

Cool looking bike, obviously BMW inspired design but at a fraction of the price. Looks like you can buy the whole bike for about the price of the BMW luggage alone http://sinnismotorcycles.com/motorcycle.php?motorcycle=Sinnis%20125%20Terrain Hope its built as well as it looks.. enjoy - looks like you're having a lots of fun which is the idea!!

Haha just bought a new coffee machine.. I don't even drink coffee!

It's the S8+ so it's quite big, took a while to get used to but it's a very good phone. Highly recommended. I always bought Google Nexus devices before and they were excellent too, but the S8+ is a better phone than the current Google's phones.

Why does this still happen? We are not in the 90's anymore! All phones are connected to the internet and have the ability to backup photos as they are taken. Phones should be disposable, break a phone, get a new one, log in, and all your stuff including photos comes back!

Anyone had a phone replaced by Carphone Warehouse? I smashed my Galaxy and went in yesterday to order a replacement under my insurance. Had to pay a 60quid excess. Today I went to collect my replacement phone and they just handed it to me and didn't ask for the broken one back! Was this a mistake? Do i still owe them a broken phone? Or am I now the proud owner of two Galaxy S8+ phones, the broken one I can easily sell for much more than the 60quid excess.... Seems too good to be true

I hope when I get to 68 I'm in a position to decide it's time for me to stop riding sportsbikes!