Joeman

Join the forum, chat with fellow bikers, share stories, don't just use the place to share your video links.. that's the best way to get loads of negative comments and downvotes

6 months?? No way, you could have it amputated and a wooden pirate leg fitted in less time! Could even train the parrot to sit on your shoulder and say pirate stuff in less time..

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170901/df145657aea7b444d21ed5080fed69b0.jpg' alt='YOUTUBE>'> Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk That was posted a few weeks ago by the girl who filmed it I think.

It would be really easy to setup a webcam that watches a road and every time it sees a car going > 1mph over the speed limit it posts a 10mb video to the police demanding that they do something about it. Leave it running a few months, then submit a fredom of information request requesting how many of the reported incidents were investigated and how many lead to action being taken... The results would make the front page of all the tabloids!

They have no idea how many videos they are going to get sent from irate drivers... There is no way they have the IT infrastructure in place to handle the volumes of reports, especially considering many members of the public won't have a clue how to edit the videos, so they will get sent huge files with maybe just a few seconds if "interesting" footage, much of which won't be useable or won't actually show any laws being broken. But let them carry on and learn the hard way that you can't cut the policing budget and get the public to do the job for free...

I have fun with the ones who call up to "talk about my recent accident as they can get me a significant payout" I let them speak, then when they ask "were you injured" I say "oh yes, very seriously". This gets them excited and they blurt out a load of other nonsense before finally asking "what was the nature of your injuries?" To which I reply, " oh well it's very sad, they took me to hospital, thought I would be ok but then sadly I died"... Then I either just go silent, or play along some more to see how much longer they want to waste talking to a dead person.

Haha I keep getting adverts for those! They look cool but I'm not a "ring man"

Yellow and red look like they might be the backlight wires. Hard to tell from the pics.

Carbs at an angle when mounted to the bike.. Floats not floating enough? Need to bend the little tab a bit to make them close the valve more?

Well I had to.. all those little gears just made it too irresistible.. and they all move when it spins.. Cheap Chinese engineering at its best.

KTM should stick to enduro and MX bikes. All the road bikes look like Frankenstein creations.

Yep, no inheritance tax on that. Take the cash and buy more bikes! Edit: actually, I'd rent it out, make sure she has a will in place, and in 7+ years it will have doubled in value and generated a nice rental income.

It won't be a spike. More likely the +ve supply you hooked it to isnt a good one. Best way to get a charger working is to hook up a relay. That way you can take power directly from the battery.

It's still under warranty right? So take it back! Its their job to figure out what's wrong, not yours.

Are you sure it was the fuse box you connected to? Not the reg/rec?

Go local and ask them to price match the online store. They might not be able to totally match the price but then it's worth paying for the service of someone to help you out and get your sizes right and to take the stuff away same day. That's worth more than the saving you get online. Trying stuff in in-store then ordering online should be illegal as it's not fair on retailers and and if everyone did it there would be no stores left!

I took the phone back and the girl i spoke to in the shop told me they always cringe when they know one of those emails has been sent out as it sounds so nasty and they never know how the recipient will react. Had the manger have been there I would have said something like "oh you're the one sending me the nasty emails then" and laughed it off. Seems they really don't like sending them out. No point having a go at anyone in the store, it's clearly corporate policy to send out emails designed to scare people into submission. It not a nice way to do business, but then which large corporations are nice to customers these days??

As manuel would say KEH ! Surely you mean Front wheel on the floor = front brake Or Back wheel off the floor = Front Brake You've never had a wheelie go bad have you.. with the front wheel in the air, the rear brake is your lifeline!

Final and correct words. To anyone finding this thread , ignore the advice of the rider who's probably never ridden on anything other than tarmac and think about the actual science around braking. If bottoming out your forks was a good idea, why don't they build forks that just lock up when you pull the brake lever?? Why allow the front of the bike to dive so much altering the geometry when according to our friend solid forks are best?? Because it's not true that's why! Roads are more bumpy than race tracks hence the reason for more suspension travel and more ground clearance than a race bike. You are basically telling people to ignore actual science and do what they feel works best with no scientific method of measuring the results.. let their blood be on your hands! I actually don't think you are bottoming out your forks. I think your think you are, but I bet you're not because if you were the bike would feel terrible. You know you are wrong, you know the science all points to the opposite of what you're saying and you know you can't hold a sensible debate about it, hence your dismissive last message.. Just Google it if you don't want to listen to me. Bottomed out front (or rear) suspension is never a good thing and you should certainly not be advising people to do it.

The great thing about physics is that it will always work. It doesn't give a crap about yours or anyone elses opinion. Fully bottomed out suspension is not the optimal way to brake - that is a well proven fact and why racing suspension costs more than a most road bikes. Once again, if your suspension is bottoming out, you need it adjusting or stiffer springs. Take that onboard or don't, I really don't care!!

It was 4:30am, i had nothing better to be doing! Lol

To your first point - fully compressing the front forks will mean maximum load on the tyre, maximum compression, and so maximum grip which is what I would want. I can't see why anyone would want anything else if they needed to stop quickly. In fact, if I put my bike in 'Rain' mode it automatically softens the suspension, making it easier to compress the forks as an aide to braking in the wet. To your second point - if I was able to use my rear brake without locking the wheel/triggering ABS then I wouldn't be braking anywhere near as hard as my bike can achieve. In both cases it's basic physics at play. You always want your suspension to follow the contours of the road. With the forks fully bottomed out you are using the tyre flex as suspension. Not a good idea as tyres are not designed to act as suspension. You need to understand the concept of sprung and unsprung mass. You want to keep unsprung mass to a minimum in order for your suspension to work well, hence light weight wheels.. With forks fully bottomed out, your unsprung mass effectively increased from a few kg (weight of wheel and tyre and brakes) to many hundreds of kg (total weight of the bike plus rider) this then causes the tyres to start acting as suspension.. Since we are talking physics, tyres are essentially an undamped spring, so they are able to recoil at almost the same rate they are compressed and since they are undamped they will oscillate. Because they are an undamped system the recoil from the tyre can cause the front tyre to unload rapidly lifting the front of the bike up thus reducing the contact patch size and reducing your brake efficiency. Your front tyre will skip across the road surface rather than following the contours. Your tyre pressure will dictate the maximum contact patch for the bike and rider weight, so the ideal setups is to brake hard enough to achieve maximum contact patch size whilst still leaving some suspension travel to soak up bumps in the road. This will mean if you hit a bump under hard braking the force is absorbed and damped by the forks keeping the front tyre in contact with the ground rather than being absorbed and recoiled by the tyre causing the contact patch to reduce... Triggering the rear ABS doesn't make the front brakes brake less. They are two independent braking systems so you can be braking as hard as you like on both brakes without reducing the braking force generated by the other. In a full emergency stop situation you're not initially going to get much braking from the rear due to the rapid weight transfer to the front, but any time the rear tyre is on the ground, you may as well be standing on the brake pedal and letting the ABS decide how much braking it's going to allow the rear to do. That's the whole point of ABS brakes. Brake really really hard and let the computer calculate the maximum braking allowed by the tyres and road conditions. My bike has anti flip to stop me flipping the bike over forwards on the brakes, something that's very possible on sports bikes if you snatch the front brake. But again not a problem on mine as the computer won't let me flip the bike over.

You don't really want your forks to fully compress and bottom out. If they do then you probably need to adjust your suspension or fit stiffer springs. Using the rear brake won't cause the front to be any less efficient so as long as the rear tyre is still in contact with the road, you may as well be using the rear brake to help slow you down.

Yep, two separate braking systems. Even bikes with ABS have two reservoirs. I think so that if you have a fluid loss from one brake you still have fluid in the other and you'd at least have one working brake.

Shoei GT-Air with Sena S20s