RideWithStyles

Totally agree with Manxie. If they charge the basic minimum should be all theses: Proper bays sized only for bikes. Ballards to protect them from numpty drivers poor manoeuvres and stop cars from using them for the reason Manxie said. Proper rails or very high level posts (stop bike and chain being lifted high up over the rail) to actually be able to chain the bike to. oh and of course all the machines to accept the input of reg plate in replace of ticket. part sheltered would be nice.

Almost like it’s still on a cold “choke” setting? Is it intermittently or all the time, only when cold or hot? What rev does it hold itself at? Is that constant or variable? Is it a sudden kick in or soft? If you turn it off and on again does it behave the same/different or normal.

Far enough, I was only asking as in it can fail an mot if they are deemed too bright or not working as intended originally.

Which one was that Bonio? Just so people know.

Dedicated to? I’ve seen loads of with AF instructions.

Looks good but for me as in “finer detail” of id be finding/ using a warm white bulb rather than a white or Cool so at least it matches the bikes halo bulbs colour and just looks like it was the same as back in the day and unmolested only brighter rather than just done to stand out from the crowd like a chav’d would do. just insure they’re not too bright as they can fail an mot. Just to remember that you’ll may still need a resistor to each one and the bike will still be putting the same old higher power for old school bulbs through the same wiring to it.

more likely it will be a basic chassis tweak/change of the last one… at least to start with. all the statements seem to say so as to kawa overlords pulling all the strings. then as the years gets on maybe full swing elaborate model? Would be nice and something different like CHS, superchargers/turbos etc to come along but….while that racing rule book is there and not being adapted or change to allow( left field ) players or approach then its still stagnant to “as you were”.

Nice and thanks. got to remember that the hals are dipped and not main beam on that picture? so direction is below camera line while the sides are just pointed out closer to the camera. Dont get me wrong I’m sure it is brighter. A great way to show a difference is in the dark from the riders perspective. im sure you’ll still tell the difference as the colouring from the two techs will show what it highlights and how? do the side lights now throw more further away in front out rather the sides? Does it extend its distance to say nearer the Hal’s dipped? If so then how much more? now the problem you may get is flashed at as people may think there too bright, aimed at there eye line or give the impression on full beam at them now? Just a thought.

That’s why the bmw club is like farming, keys from one tractor to another and wife swappin of one heifer to another. I joke because I’m sure the women are fine, just the male owners have gone weird over time, Must be something to do with the action of those cylinders…

At least they salted and so forth the roads, on the prominent lancs boarder have basically done sweet FA. Also failed their own work again as bin men have had two days/stabs at trying to get on some side roads and failed because LCC are too stupid and tight fisted to do a job correctly, even in the remote highlands of Islay have done a far better job!

Which then leads to the bmw (motorcycle) club and the special meets of wife swapping? That sort of club?

U may need a restrictor kit, filament or halo bulbs need more juice than LEDs do so if you dont restrict them you can over load them.

Sometimes private motorists transport is expensive as it is a luxury not always seen as a necessity… now you’ve not gone into any details so I’m assuming it’s just a rant but if you want to ride you might just have to bite the bullet for the first year to get yourself on the ladder, assuming your a new rider? What quotes, age, roughly area, license, bike, ncb or claims already made, any convictions, garage etc. if you dont tell us these things you might still be getting good ones for you circumstances but you believe there high or ballooned for what ever reasons .

It’s immensely impressive, and accurate then? defo puts a shame to racing games, where they can’t even get a track profile, undulations and what not correct all the while it on the fricking ground! Let alone being able to rent the circuit, see on endless camaras, racers & testers opinions etc to get get it right. its definitely seems good to my non flying eyes.

Great to see. it looks worse because you’ve taken the top layer of corrosion/protection off (light colour) which has been sitting ontop of the real rust corrosion layer below. If you skimmed a few thous or sanded abit more you might get past it without compromising the metal strength. the none threaded side looks good.

Agree with both. if the fan has not kicked in then the fan and sensor needs checking, then things like the rad(s) and the block as if it’s gotten too hot, even in a hot spot area it could have damaged or warped something. If you lucky it just bubbled as it may have been over filled or blocked, if its bad then parts need changing. Id also check the oil and filter if something has failed as above, it might have degraded it sooner or even tell you if something has failed…

A modern twist/ retake on: Kitten skin gloves now it’s realistically achievable.

Is that if you forget the drop?

Ah so you See the light! now you don’t have a downer with a perfectly good designed bike as it was intended.

Strange reply post bonio. always still a possibility of being suddenly damaged through mindless acts as they do travel south beyond the place residing, or even just plain failure. fabric roofs and mechanical parts (costly) have a certain life span even if looked after properly so wear,tear,failure is very much a possibility especially with age. So davidtav its very much up to you what cap you set for this car (as in what cost limit of repair) before hand, preventive measures are cost effective.

One to remember, how often does the sun really shine in Scotland? . jokes aside. over the sentimental value id treat it bangeromics, you own it, it’s done its service and still has some life left in it, all it needs is a proper service which it’s due. do the fix and have many more miles of joy for less than a few months of payments to the Dacia that would still need many years of payment and services to come anyway… the only time id call it over is if the engine and gearbox completely destroyed themselves together and the used ones were very difficult to come by Or if the hood got trashed and the interior by vandalism.

Euro 3 for bikes was about way prior to 2005. most Cars were at e4 back then, nearing the Euro5. Last of the Euro 4 bikes 2019. Both of Which dragged on for a lot of years. how or what they did to get that was up to the manufacturer and the base design from the vehicle -bike or car. My bike was the last of the carbs of that model Suzuki bandit 650 and apparently still ok (may need a test if it’s questioned but it’s bog std so all good) for the shite hole called khans zero playroom. MB is correct they did and still do play with the design and settings (analogue,digital or material) to achieve the pass, as the test is only at certain speeds and gears still. Anyway back to the OP - If this was a summer bike and/or the heater broke or pipes split they more than likely just deleted the system and blanket it off as for their use case it didn’t matter and just complicated things. Might have been raced/tracked? another thought of it not quite right might be is a tiny air leak or if the exhaust isn’t standard post set to the carbs or has the baffle removed? That’s can be enough to throw it off, even if it was an early injection bike let alone a carb one with questionable history? The OP hasn’t said much of the bike to really nail down a good cause.

Tis the blood of thy peasants, a stark reminder of what will become if they dont aby and pay on time to thy lord, suffer the wrath and pain of death from the giant pet spider that resides by the window ready for thy masters commands to have its next human meal. is the rack holding up the wall/door? Last I saw horsey’s have four legs,move, jump about…and dont lay on rugs.

if it’s standard oem fit then fine. but Depends on the wheels, some are better designed for them (got to remember about the inner fitment not just how it looks on the outside. most straight ones have two seals (inner and outer rim, those ones you have there only have one which is the outer side only, plus the screw nut might dig into the alloy or steel, ok when racing but when long term road use they have a compromise. true to the point of centrifugal force and a slight weight balance if you have a awkward rim it can do, and that’s why you’d have to clamp the thing down harder and give the rim some extra grief. just make sure you get the correct size t as they come in different sizes as I found out on the triumph. what ive done is used a screw fit nozzle and hose (from a high pressure bicycle suspension pump 250psi job) on my motorbike/car tyre pump- and just screw fit the thing on as valve has a external thread- most I’ve ever lost is 0.25 of a psi in summer while in the process of unscrewing it even I screwed it back on to recheck it, it’s been the Best method for me. rather than the normal push or clamp on ones, which are terrible and potentially do more damage to the valve.

Looks like a mini version of sportsbike shop rack…starting off small?