Simon Davey

Nice result @Gerontious Good that you know some eskimo proverbs, they'll probably be useful come 1st week of September.

No technical expertise needed, that's not good at all. I don't know why, but I just watched that over and over again, quite hypnotic...

Good luck @Gerontious

Jeeeeeezus, that's disgusting, so much for me thinking you took it to the right place. Pads take 5 minutes to replace, but admittedly, headrace bearings are a bit of a job. When you take it to the local, don't ask him to do it, but ask him for his opinion.

Good morning

No need to physically separate, just slide those wires from the terminals.

Good afternoon

Once you have your voltmeter, I'm pretty sure you want about 27v from the charger, whilst it charges. 12v is the discharged voltage of a battery, you're looking for as near to 13v as possible, or slightly higher when charged. Assuming you have an "intelligent" bike charger, could you separate them and use it to sort them out?

The right place to take it, me thinks.

Good luck with getting back on the road, what a feeling that'll be!

Good morning

I does look good, and more comfortable to kneel on than concrete.

Lol. I thought you meant inner spring was inside /underneath the stand , and the outer was outside/to the side? Stronger spring to assist pulling the bike up, and the other spring to keep the stand retracted under the bike when not in use? I don't understand why you would have one spring inside the other.

I follow Kimono racing on YouTube (they're awesome) and this is how they do it...

Is that outer spring supposed to be the inner spring? No insult intended, but just a thought....

Can you tell my missus that I made sense.

I think their design is to allow emergency vehicles through without bouncing the vehicles. No excuse for not marking them though. Write to the local council saying how dangerous they are when not visible, they can't/shouldn't ignore danger, they'll want to cover their backsides.

Although a leak does seem obvious, when I pump the brakes, then cable tie the lever over night, it doesn't lose pressure, which it would if there were a leak. Before I do anything drastic, I'm going to clamp the opposite line to one that I'm bleeding. Both lines come from a "T" above the mudguard, so clamping one may help. I know you can buy the plastic clamps that don't damage the hose, but a chap showed me that you could put two small socket on a pair of mole grips so it clamps, but very kindly.

Cheers @Fozzie Yes, tried all the above, I'm not actually losing fluid, although it would be difficult to tell as it would be a tiny amount. Reason for the caliper rebuild was poor braking, and having to top up twice in 400 miles. I've tried the cable tie trick a few times, it works well, but the pressure ebbs away quite quickly. I'm going to pull the calipers off to check for leaks around the piston seals, as all the banjos are dry, but I'll leave the brake lines conected. Whilst doing that, I'm going wind the calipers back and open the bleed valve, as there could be air trapped behind the pistons. Thanks for the help.

Good morning

There's no shame in learning. We'll just take the piss.

40 minutes to the hospital from home, had a great ride there and back. Slapped on the vintage panniers so I didn't have to drag my clobber to my appointment. Totally surprised, and really rather chuffed that the radiographer was concerned that I had a crash helmet, but no jacket, she was delighted I'd stashed it in a pannier and wasn't without protection. Free bike parking, under cover in the shade, delightfully civilised. That's not my oil leak!

Looks like a great day out @geofferz I hope there were a couple of Mk3 Cortina's.

Yes, I have no problem at all. Have you got the sponge thingy on the mic?

No bleed nipple, but I did open the master cylinder banjo to let a little through. It turns out I do actually have a local workshop in Haverhill, I had no Idea there was one so close, until I just had a bike chat with a guy at Sainsbury's. I'm going to get it in there, I think my front wheel bearing has gone, there's an awful non-engine noise.