bonio

Oops. That must have cost you at least two pints of beer.

Ah insurance. Yes, you get stung for the first year. A BMW R1200RT is insurance group 11 (out of 17). For comparison, the MT07 is group 11 too. It might be that, even though they're both in the same group, the RT is significantly more to insure because of the bigger engine size. If so, then you're going to need a bike with a smaller engine. The issue is that you need some decent power to tour with pillion... Overtaking fully loaded with pillion on an MT07 is going to take a lot of forward planning. I'd also guess that the suspension is going to be working a fair way beyond what it was designed for. Not a recipe for having fun. You might consider a naked like a GSX-S750. I've not ridden one, so this isn't a recommendation. Nakeds aren't great for touring, but many have toured on them, and they often deliver a lot of power - in this case 112bph - from smaller engines. Sports bikes do this even better, but don't expect your pillion to be too happy. As it happens, the GSX-S750 is also insurance group 11. It would be interesting to get quotes for all three bikes and compare them. Then at least you'd get an idea of what sort of bike is going to be affordable. If all else fails you could ride a 650 for a year and then move up to a bigger bike that you could tour with more comfortably. Let us know how you get on.

Bit harsh, mate.

Never had a go on an RT. They look so lardy, I guess it's put me off. But owners say they're amazing.

I've also searched and searched for a sports tourer and I reckon the MV Turismo is only the bike that comes close to fitting the description. But no-one buys an MV for cheap, reliable biking.

Rear-ended while stopped: twice Dropped when stationary: twice Stalled and dropped turning left out of Aldi: once. Came off going through slimy ford: once. That's a total of 2 non-stationary accidents.

Congratulations on the pass Here are a few suggestions until other come along with better ones... Expensive: R1200GS TE 2013 on (from £7k). An amazing can-do-all bike: easy days on motorways when you want to get somewhere fast, plenty of room on the bike for 2. Get one with a top box: it makes a first class pillion seat back. Preferably with panniers too: they carry a lot of stuff. Only downer is that they're heavy - a lot heavier than an MT07 - and although they feel weightless as 10mph+, you'd have to be sure you're comfortable with the weight at slow speed and when stopped. Depends in part on how big you are. Tracer 900 GT. Very well-regarded bike; my mate has one and tours everywhere. Should be suitable for pillion too. Mid range: Z1000SX (from £5.5k), or Versys 1000 (from 4k). Two very different bikes from Kawasaki, but both are very competent and either would do what you want without batting an eyelid. Get one with panniers included. I like the Z a bit more - I find it a more engaging ride, but its probably less comfortable for a pillion. Cheaper: Reliability is the issue here; you don't want a bike that is likely to let you down when you're touring. So, VFR750? Sprint GT1050 (a bit heavier to handle and perhaps less reliable). Transalp?

I think pcps work well if you're committed to getting a new bike every 3 years. They're completely hassle free. But an expensive way of keeping a bike. They create a great supply of barely ridden, well-looked after, secondhand bikes, though. Unless I wanted the latest model, I'd look at going down that route. It's a good time to get a good deal, with the new plates coming in soon.

At one time my bike had four screens. Now thanks to ebay, it's just got the one I like and I've also got the original. Plus a few quid to spare.

Congrats on the bike! Plenty of space under here for pics

Yeah, that's my experience too. I have advanced qualifications in dropping bikes, and frame sliders or engine bars have saved me every time. Depending on your bike, bar ends might give you some protection, but they've never been any help for bikes I've had. I wouldn't bother with sliders for the swing arm or forks or wheel hubs; they're just for decoration. As for brands, R&G are fine, but I was more impressed with the sliders from CNC Racing; they were a lot more solid as well as easier to fit. And yes, it's an easy enough DIY job. If you're tightening them on the engine mounting bolts, don't do what I did, which was to use R&G's torque settings; use the manufacturers. I ended up finishing a 600 mile ride home, with both sliders and both bolts behind me somewhere on the motorway.

Good advice from @daveinlim. There's a quick and dirty tool here https://bikerrated.com/insurance-estimator/ that you can use to get some approximate quotes for comparison. Try different bikes, different ages. Try with and without 1 year's NCD, and see how they all compare. If you're thinking about the moped route, though, it's worth running a real quote through to see what your insurance would be on the bike you want with 1 year's NCD. It's common for insurers to slap on a premium when you move from a bike with smaller engine to a larger one. I've had it happen to me twice - going from a 500 to a 1200, and some years later, going from a 400 to 800. My guess is that on both occasions I broke some magic insurance barrier (1000cc, 650cc) that triggered a higher premium. The premium went down to something more sensible the year after, but this would kind of defeat what you're aiming to achieve.

Good evening. Two years ago, I thought I might just be able to retire in 3 or 4 years. Now I reckon it's 5 years away at least, and it could hold there, always 5 years away, for as long as inflation is up where it is. Saves the hassle of working what to do with all that free time

Had to google that. Was it worth the trip to Middlesbrough?

Coming up to the Suez Canal by road - wowzer that's weird - the sight of ships sailing over a sea of sand...

I'd say to buy textiles (like the jacket onesea gave the link to) and buy them loose fitting enough to go over your work clothes. Textiles should keep you dry for 7 miles in all but the worst downpours. And with your work clothes, you should be warm enough too. I'd add heated grips to the bike to stop your hands freezing. Textiles with removable quilted linings work well for commuting. That way, you can remove the lining in summer and they should still be ok - unless the weather gets crazy hot. In summer you've more options: I use kevlar jeans, and then just carry on wearing them all day in the office (except I hardly ever go there now, since covid). Look on ebay. There's usually a fair choice of of reasonable secondhand stuff. Or visit a local J&S (if you're near enough) if you want to buy new.

Was sore last night for sure.

7 bikes is probably the perfect number. Seriously though, take your CBT, and do direct access (DAS) to get your licence. You'll get a better idea of the kind of bike you're going to be happy with as you go through the training. Meanwhile, ask yourself what kind of journeys are you going to be doing - days out for larks, commuting, longer distances, summer only, all weathers?

@daveinlim It's mainly meat. There's a bit of nail attached too. The whole thing is about the size of a penny.

I think you add them all up and put it down as a 25.

Hedgecutter. It wasn't even on. I was putting the blade back into the sheath when the end of my thumb got in the way. Found the bit stuck to my finger.

The end of my thumb

Ohhhh very nice.

... when I had my GS they were known for being shipped with batteries that would last a year at best. Perhaps not much has changed there.

The voltages look fine to me - that's what it should be doing. My guess is that the battery's taken a bit of a beating in the cold. Either the Optimate will cheer it up and make it fine again, or else it will keep it hobbling on for a few more weeks before it dies on you when you really need get somewhere on time.