bonio

Missing the sun here, too. Hard to think there was so much of it going for free just a few months ago.

Without all the crap they add in.

Never ridden an Enfield, but it does sound right. The only time my bike's reluctant to change gear is when it's stopped. If this is happening when you're on the move I'd get it back to the dealer to be fixed.

Welcome in!

Hey Hoggs, would you put me down for 77? I'm promising nothing, but who knows what may happen.

Hi there. Congrats on the new bike.

29A is a shit load quite a lot. I think you're fine.

Feeling your pain mate. With the GS, I decided in the end that it would be a bike that wore its wounds with a bit of pride. It would a proper bike that had seen active service. Reluctantly have had to come to the same decision about the MV.

Welcome in! Have you got your eye on any particular bikes?

Change your screen. You can try this out for free: when you're riding down some bit of straight road, keep looking straight ahead while you move your head slowly up and then down. If you can find a quieter spot, then a new screen will probably help. Where the quiet spot is will tell you roughly how much taller or shorter you need the screen to be. Use ear plugs, and if it's still too noisy, try a helmet windjammer.

That's a lot. I'm 61, and fully comp insurance on a 2 year old MV Augusta 800cc is about £200. 9 years no claims (so probably £350 without ncb). It's common practice for companies to charge more the first year you're riding a bigger bike than before. When I went from a 500cc to a 1200cc, my insurance was crazy to begin with, but after that it settled down. Same thing happened when I had to say I'd gone from a 400cc to an 800cc. The big factors are: where are you (insurance in London is crazy) and where's the bike kept (in a garage or shed is cheaper). It can work in weird way too: fully comp and can sometimes be cheaper than third party, and you can sometimes get a small reduction by increasing your annual mileage. But the easiest variable to change is the bike. Try putting different bikes and different engine sizes through and see what happens. I wouldn't be surprised if 600cc bikes come out a lot cheaper than litre bikes.

It's not the battery, it's the stator you need to think about. And it's not volts, its amps that are the killer. The problem comes if the current drawn your stuff adds up to more than the current the stator can provide. If this is the case and you're lucky, the current deficit will be made up by the battery. The battery will go flat and when you next stop you won't be able to start. But if this is the case and you're unlucky, the stator will try harder and harder to produced meet the demand for amps and it will burn its little coils out. You need to know how much current in amps the stator can deliver. Should be in the handbook, but if not then a forum somewhere. Then tot up the amps drawn by the headlamps on full beam + rear lamp + grips + power pack/mobile*. If you don't know the amps, then take the power rating (in watts) and divide by 14. If the stator can deliver what's needed, then you're ok. If not, you still might be able to swing it by juggling your accessories, e.g. by only having the grips on low if you're charging the power pack. Or if not, you might be able to swap the headlamp bulbs for LEDs. *The sat nav is probably too small to bother about, and the brake lights and indicators aren't on long enough to make a difference (because the electric can overdeliver amps for short periods) Some bikes use some clever circuitry to cap the current available through a USB port at 1A or 2A - check in your handbook; if this is the case with yours, this will be the maximum current the power pack can draw, no matter what it would draw if it were connected to a mains transformer.

goatbot

It's worth checking the current drawn by the heated grips and the power bank.

Siemens! You sure that was wise?

Not actually owned that many The best: MV Agusta TV The worst: Tiger XRx 800 Wish list: reluctantly have to admit it: R1200GS. Proper love - hate relationship, but the love was true love.

Just in time... Merry Christmas all!

So @jhonesnow, that was weird. That was basically my post from earlier in the thread, but put through google translate a couple of times or something like that so that "father in law" changed to "father by marriage" and so on all the way through. And then your other posts are things like "thanks man that was so helpful" - even to an article skimmed off the internet by the admin bot. This final point is so clearly not what any human would do, which means you've failed the Turing Test. I call you out as a bot.

I think the ULEZ for London requires only euro 3 for bikes. Which means you could consider an earlier BMW F800GT like say 2013. Perhaps a bit more expensive but it's a really competent bike with a good fairing and no chain. With a top box fitted, it would be great for your journey.

Other thing to watch out for is even if a battery is showing it's fully charged - 12.6V+ across the terminals - it might not be holding very much charge. So even though a charger will give it a green light, when you put in the bike and the starter motor begins to draw current from it, the voltage quickly drops to the floor. When this happens the battery's knackered and needs replacing.

Hi Yves. All the best with your search for the brake lever. How frustrating that it's so hard to get!

Likely they will. Last couple of years I've bagged some great bargains in early Feb.

A great account of his life. And a huge loss for you. May he rest in peace and rise in glory.

Given a choice, I take -5 outside over +1. +1 is just damp and orrible. But I guess I'd think differently about it if in a drafty old barn like yours .

Are you sure the nurse wasn't really Ronnie Barker in drag?