bonio

Not owned either, but I think I'd prefer the reliability of Triumph over a newish Enfield. Also, I reckon you'll be happier with an older bike: you *will* drop it at some time, and when you do, you'll be so pleased that it's already had one or battle scars and the new scratch isn't its first. And when you come to sell it on after a few years, you should be able to sell it at more or less cost price. Thought about a Yamaha XSR700? Just within your budget perhaps. Or a Kawasaki W800? Others will be on here with better ideas

Sorry @The GOAT Was looking forward to catching up with you. Hope your health improves a bit over the summer.

@Ian Frog Yes mate. I'm due for my second vaccine on Sunday, or my second placebo; either way, I'll have had two of each by Sunday. And then they'll be able to give me some kind of cert

The Smokies! Wooo. Sign me up.

This is true. 800s too

I did the DAS intensive thing: one week from CBT to passing Mod2 - or my case, to failing Mod1 and game over. Eventually got through Mod 1 and Mod 2 a month later on. If I were doing it again, I'd do DAS but on a more relaxed schedule, over a month or so.

If you buy a 125, I'd buy secondhand a Japanese bike, preferably a Yamaha like a YBR or a Honda. That way, you will get the best reliability you can buy, and you will sell it on for much the same amount as you pay for it. Other countries' bike might not work out so easily for you. With a Chinese bike (sorry lads, I said it) you've greatly reduced your chances of coming out of it emotionally and financially unscathed.

It's Easter for us! Chocolate eggs on Sunday.

Any more needs or wants? Would you consider a naked? A street triple? A Brutale? A Shiver? What about price? A BMW S1000XR is a lunatic machine with good manners and a supercomfy ride - if you can put up with the vibes. But if you want a sports look then @fullscreenaging's Z1000SX idea is a great suggestion - a cracking bike, with a sports soul, but a more comfortable riding position. The VFR is bit sportier in body position, but easier than full-on sportsbike.

As @Gerontious says Gore-Tex comes with a guarantee that's pretty watertight . I bought some second hand Gore-Tex trousers once on ebay (I think they were Hein Gericke), but they leaked. Sent them to Gore-Tex, no receipt or anything. They couldn't replace them, as they were no longer produced, but they gave me a hefty discount on any Gore-Tex trousers I wanted.

Looks awesome Congrats!

Not sure I'm 100% right, but I think the CBT was meant to fix the problem of someone sticking some L plates on a bike, hopping on and ending up as a KSI statistic, simply through lack of awareness of the dangers. I believe, though, it's introduced a new problem: people pass their CBT and reckon they're now qualified to ride, so why bother doing any more? Especially now the test is so complicated (and schools are expensive).

There are two ways to get a motorcycle licence: 1. Do a 1 (or sometimes 2) day CBT. This allows you ride a bike up 125cc on L plates for two years. During this time you can't take pillions and you can't go on motorways, but you can ride on your own and gain experience. The idea is that at some time in the two-year window, you take your motorcycle theory test, get a few lessons from a school, and then take the practical tests for the full licence (the first part is at a purpose-built test centre, the second part is on the road). 2. If you're over 24, you can take lessons on a full-sized (i.e. 600cc or 650cc) bike with a tutor following you, and when you're ready, take the practical test for the full licence (again, in two parts and again, you need to pass the motorcycle theory test first). This is very similar to the way you learn to drive a car. If you're finding it harder to pick up driving skills, you might find option 1 works better for you as it gives you plenty of time to get used to the bike while riding roads you're familiar with.

Yup. I will move out to the right to get a view, and then if it's clear overtake the car in front. But the driver, because he's over to the left, can't see the road is clear, and it looks from their point of view as if I'm being dangerous. And the cam is even further left, so it will make it look even worse.

spoken like a southerner

I belong to Suffolk Riders... it's a RoSPA group, but the thing that works for me is that they do great ride outs: minimum faff, and taken at a brisk, engaging pace. I find riding with gives my riding a bit of a lift, and I end up riding more fluidly. Not all RoSPA or IAM groups offer that kind of thing (where I used to live, they didn't), but you could do worse than check what out your local groups are like.

Nice Turismo there

Hi Porridge. Welcome in.

And buried in here is the best advice of all: don't fall off.

Or for that matter, how is it that anyone can take a CBT which gives you 2 hours experience of riding on the road, and go out and ride a 125 unaccompanied, yet to drive a car on L plates you must have a qualified driver in the front passenger seat with you at all times, no matter how many hours of instruction or driving you've got under your belt?

Yes, but in Germany at least, you can only ride your 125 after taking a couple of days (9 "double periods") of additional training. https://www.motorradonline.de/125er/. Sounds like a CBT on steroids. Added to that, you have to be at least 25 years old and have had your full car licence for at least 5 years. I think our system is better!

CBT is treated by a lot of 125 and scoot riders as the standard they need to pass in order to ride. I'd prefer to see much greater restriction on what you can do after a CBT - for example, require renewal after 2 or 3 months - to funnel people more effectively towards taking the full test.

Yup audio is a plus. Don't really want to be looking at the screen all the time. Trying Sygic right now. I like the way you can plan a route on a laptop and then send it to your phone.

First service for the MV. Big day - like watching your kid graduate from High School. Then first bath too, as the roads were wet and fully of shite and salt.

Some bike are a bit anti-neutral, and take some coaxing. Sometime helps to engage the clutch in 1st or 2nd and try again. With only 1000 miles it's hardly run in, mind. I wouldn't be surprised if it improves over the next year.