Bianco2564

Changed a front side light bulb on the Silverwing. The lamp holder is underneath a plastic panel below the screen, one of the mounting clips had previously been "repaired" in a fairly ugly style ( not me I might add). Out with the rapid Araldite and good as new....

My two great uncles served in WW1. My Mum always remembered them every Nov 11th, since she passed away ive picked it up. Called down to the memorial in Church Stowe this morning.

It was in MCN recently, on my list to pay a visit.

Perhaps if all these diy mechanics learnt how to use a torque wrench, there wouldnt be half as many knackered threads? A typical fastener is tightened to 75% of its yield point ( excepting stretch bolts) so to strip the thread initially they have had to overtightened it by a fair amount.

Yep, a predictable outcome, its under torqued and the thread is virtually stripped. Ignoring it is to be expected by your diy mechanic, anyone with an ounce of pride in their work would fix it.

Indeed, the amount of bolts you see laying in the road is quite scary.

In our hypothetical situation, its a new or recently calibrated wrench.

Just trying to understand this thought. If we have two M10 8.8 grade bolts, both partially damaged but "servicable" threads as you describe. Both threads are free of oil ,grease and dirt. Target torque is 55Nm, typical torque for that size fastener and grade. Our torque wrench operative comes along and tightens one bolt, reaches 50 Nm and the thread starts to strip, torque wrench doesnt click, he keeps going and the thread goes completly, game over. Operative B goes to tighten the 2nd bolt without a torque wrench and.....

So if you undo the rear wheel nut, the axle won't move? . The forces from the chain and braking will start to move the axle because of the clearances in each mating part and the clearance will get bigger and bigger from the constant reversal of acceleration and braking . The adjusters move the axle to tension the chain correctly and set wheel alignment, the spindle nut keeps it all clamped up in the correct place. If your damaged but "servicable" thread cannot hold the torque its designed for then it's not servicable, it needs replacing. Using a torque wrench will show this up, doing it up by feel will probably result in the fastener being under tightened and you are just ignoring the problem. Perhaps so we don't hijack this thread any more, start a new thread , Torque wrenches? Tighten stuff up correctly or guess.

Like I said , you can tighten it correctly or just tighten it. Clearly OP wants to do the former with his research on the web and youtube, so it would only be right for us to tell him the correct procedure. To say just tighten it up, there are variables which we don't know that would affect the outcome. OP could weigh 8 stone dripping wet and be using a 19mm spanner or he could weigh 20 stone with the strength of a bear and use a 3 ft breaker bar. A torque wrench will cancel out any variable. In particular OP sounds like a biking noob with probably little mechanical experience so let's start him off on the right foot and do maintainence correctly. When he's an old hand like us with many years experience, yes he can probably tighten it up by feel. As for the wheel spindle nut, the specified torque is is to clamp the rear axle assembly to the swing arm to prevent it moving from the forces from the chain and braking so not a small job to do.

Yes the tech didn't follow the correct procedure and the result was the prop came loose. When it cost 100s of thousands £ to get a car to the grid, there can be no second chances if something has not been put together correctly. Sponsors get very upset when their car stops. Lets hope HGV garages have improved their standards from scaffold tight, no fun seeing a 44 tonne truck bearing down on you knowing it may have been assembled that badly. I was nearly taken out by a loose truck wheel when driving in the USA. It's a binary choice, tighten it up correctly or just tighten it. Back on topic, my point was to say don't believe everything you read on the net. I've seen a lot of statements on different websites that have clearly been plagarised from the language used, so the disinformation spreads. Always check your source.

It was drummed into us to use a torque wrench throughout my apprenticeship, it was at an old school garage where things were "done proper". Then moved to race engine building where everything and I mean every nut and bolt had to be torqued up, again another old school company. Failure to do so meant the sack. This has stuck with me as the correct way of doing things and I torque up all key parts of my cars and bikes. I don't use a torque wrench on everything, I'd like to believe I have a good feel for non critical fasteners. You have got to use an appropriate wrench to tighten a fastener, so why not a torque wrench, anything else is guesswork. As for the propshaft, I've seen the consequences of a prop coming loose at speed.

We bought a Bosch heat pump dryer a couple of months ago. Mrs grumbled at first because it took 3 times as long but now she's got used to it. Another benefit is the heat given off by the dryer is kept in the house and warms the utility room up. It's going to take time to recover the £500 we spent on it but the sooner you ditch the inefficient B rated machine the better.

Be very careful what you believe on the web, I was looking for info on my BMW car, found a copy from a trusted BMW forum I read. Later found another copy on there, same format and the prop bolts which I was interested in was 20Nm different. I'd urge you to find a helpful Honda dealer.

@fastbob lol , you do have to be selective on what you buy. I've bought a Clarke engine crane ,engine build stand and tool boxes from there, all cheap for what they are but work fine. Also bought a 1/2 inch socket set over 20 years ago and that is really good quality. What i wouldnt buy are any spanners, screwdrivers, sockets or bits, their quality are you say are poop.

The only worthwhile thing to visit in Cov city centre is Machinemart

https://www.nationalmotorcyclemuseum.co.uk/event-directory/museum-live/ Next weekend, been a couple of times before, great day out for free. Note the £15 parking for cars, bit steep I thought but if you are getting into the museum for nowt ,it balances out I guess.

Heard on the news today, the wholesale price of gas is falling due to over supply? https://www.hellenicshippingnews.com/europe-gas-prices-mostly-fall-on-possible-over-supply/

Bit of 2 stroke representation

Petrol gone back up by 2p around here

Vyvyan went to the south pole??

Wasn't me honest, I know better than trying to outdrag a bike. If you want a litre bike just go for it, if its an itch you need to scratch. Had my R1 for 6 years, seen three figures a handful of times and maybe 130mph on a track, so did I really need a 150hp, 175mph machine? Probably not, but I just love the easy power delivery, pulls strong from 3000rpm even in top gear.

Had a free day today, Mrs has gone with the two daughters on a spa day, so it was all about me today. Did a bit of work on the M3 this morning, then donned my leathers on and fired up the R1. Took a ride down the A5 to the Super Sausage cafe just south of Towcester. More like super queue for a cuppa, about 20mins, was going to have a bacon batch, but I clocked the ticket number was about 25 later than what they were calling out so opted for a Kit Kat instead. Usual mix of bikes there, must have been Victory Hammer club day out, must have been 15 of them there. Finished the brew and set off back towards Silverstone and ended up passing over the old GCR line at Helmdon so decided to trace it back to Rugby. First pic is from Helmdon station bridge and looking back towards the Banbury Lane. Helmdon viaduct in the distance. Went down one road from Sulgrave that was so badly rutted, had grass growing in the middle and sheep grazing on the verge, don't think they were too impressed with the R1. Stopped at a bridge between Sulgrave and Eydon, eerily quiet. Made my way to Woodford Halse, after a bit of riding around found the old station entrance and twin bridges. They had a large engine repair shop there back in the day. Back onto familiar territory of the A361 at Byfield, stopped at Charwelton, there used to be a station here, now the reception centre for the Catesby tunnel aero test track. Back towards Daventry for a while then left to Southam and crossed the GCR near Flecknoe and headed back into the boonies. Got to a gated road near Wolfhamptcote, found the line again for another bridge pic. Next bit of road/farm track was interesting on a sportsbike, only about a mile fortunately and passed two blokes walking, they must have thought WTF. Back onto the A45 at Braunston, crossed the track again at Willoughby twice before finally hitting Rugby at the Onley lane cutting. No bridge parapets remaining there, just an embankment. Crossed the line again for the final time on the Ashlawn road then home. About 75 miles altogether, bike ran a treat and had great fun.

I don't like using other computers at work, the mouse has different settings so they either shoot off the screen or don't move fast enough. Also people have different screen settings on our stock control software , why can't they set it up the same as mine?? Nothing is in the same place as you can customise the various screens. I also hate using laptops with the silly finger pad thingy. Was in a meeting the other day and I had to edit from a word document from someone elses laptop that was displayed on a wall screen for all to see, I made a pigs ear out of trying to just do basic functions like highlighting and changing the font colour.

Got through my first tank of fuel since the plugs and filter. Same route to work, travelling the same time of day, same garage I filled up at last time and.... the fuel consumption hasn't changed.