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Clutch slipping


Angela Collen
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Hi all, just thought I'd done everything needed to my old classic restoration wise and was about to take first journey and clutch stopping me smoothly leaving in first gear,just judder and cuts out. Tried pushing it up and down to release plates but no joy. This has stood in collection for last 10 years so would you recommend replacing rather than trying to clean up/repair 40 year old plates, I can get complete kit from David silver spares for not too bad a price, and see I need honda clutch nut tool (who knew) to get into , your thoughts guys

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Well this is down to how you feel.

if you want to fettle with the proudest of achievements and potentially save a few pennies, you could try to lightly clean them up, flatten them out and re soak and see if there isnt enough imprint but really if the plates have bowed / stepped memory from being left in there for so long.

The other potential worry is if the friction plate/s suddenly decide to fall out /break up while you you start using it will make more damage and costs than if you just changed them in the first place and think of hindsight.

 

if you can afford it id do it now for one less thing to potentially go wrong.

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As suggested, replace the clutch plates and also the springs.

My 53 year old Honda 125 clutch springs had gone weak and caused the clutch to slip.

New ones were no longer available, but a bit of research found some Royal Enfield springs were pretty much identical and they worked a treat.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Update, clutch unstuck by running till very warm and working well, decided to check condition as I had already bought new kit, new problem only half nuts will move on cover, others solid, any suggestions on how I can Free off without breaking or will I need to go for broke and then drill out? Your help much appreciated 

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Thanks for your advice, the screws are half sunk into the cover so soaking is not easy to do, but will try as well as tighten slightly then try to loosen, would warming it up or tapping work? Trouble is it's 40 years old and stood in someone's collection for years

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2 hours ago, Angela Collen said:

Yes not looking forward to this, might leave till winter when I've got time to be very patient, as clutch free and working well will enjoy classic bike while sun shines and deal with this later!

Most sensible idea 😁

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I concur ! Also you can use the time to repeatedly introduce a little plus gas evry time you put it away between rides.

A little and often is a good way to go before the day of the wrench arrives.

By the way a little heat and patient tapping will work wonders as previously noted.

Cheers

Ian

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Place duck tape over the recessed holes but leave alittle gap at the top to fill the recessing with a penetrating liquid of your choice and seal it up.

check and replace the tape/pene daily till the bolts come off...

some manufacturers did use lock tight liquid back in the day.

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21 hours ago, Angela Collen said:

Thanks for your advice, the screws are half sunk into the cover so soaking is not easy to do, but will try as well as tighten slightly then try to loosen, would warming it up or tapping work? Trouble is it's 40 years old and stood in someone's collection for years

The cars I used to work on were all older and had often stood outside for years. All of the above work ..... eventually.  There are loads of YouTube videos of freeing seized bolts. Patience,  plusgas, heat, tapping, and going both directions in very small amounts.

 

If you get one moving don't try to just undo it. Back it out slightly then back in. Then out again a fraction more, then in again. Most failures happen when someone tries to go too far at once, threads get jammed and the bolt shears.

 

If you've got rattle gun use a very low setting and let it do the boring bit. 

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