Mickly

Also your tank breather might be blocked

Saturday & Sundays Nob is me !! Went out on the Speedtriple on Saturday, stopped for some fuel & realised that my phone wasn’t charging despite being plugged into the USB port ( the USB port part of my Garmin 590 satnav) Went home and tried to work out why not. Tried fitting the nav unit to the cradle Phone still not on. Tried switching the Nav unit on, nothing except a charging icon, couldn’t use the menus. Got in a strop, took the lot off the bike & went for a ‘spirited’ run. More investigation… Decided to charge the Nav unit using the domestic supply but couldn’t work out why the battery was so flat as it’d been switched off since November …. But, wait, No, it hadn’t…. Stupidly I had only pressed the power button once putting it into sleep mode ( still using a small amount of power) rather than for 5 seconds & using the power off touch screen option - what a Nob !! On Sunday I charged up a spare battery in the shed, connected the cable & still zilch on the phone, did some more research & for the USB outlet to work the Nav Unit MUST be in the cradle and switched on … what a Nob again. I put it in & on then got 5V from the cable inserted into the USB port.. happy days …. Nope, plugged it into the phone & got a message ‘Accessory might not be supported’ So spent ages researching Garmin/I-phone compatibility ….. only to discover that the I-phone doesn’t like the link cable I was trying to use, used another one & now all is fine so just need to refit it all … This is not the end of the saga … I complained to Mrs Mickly about the cable, her answer “If you mean the short white one, I told you it was dodgy & to chuck it” What a complete NOB !!

Happy birthday, hope it’s going well

Thing is with going round the sides / middle is that it’s where all the crud settles eg nails, screws, glass & sludge.

They should be facing the way you are going, if they don’t then you will get lost

It’s Rugby Bikefest on Sunday, can’t make it myself but some of you might be interested.

I’ve got the Draper version of this & have found it invaluable

I love finding lines of traffic full of over heating occupants only to breeze past and fcuk off into the distance … gives me a sense of smug superiority that I can rarely find in daily mundanity … although in town it’s a pita

A very happy birthday to you May your Grumpiness only get stronger

Stratford Auto Jumble on Sunday, weather permitting

There’s a YouTube channel called the Wurks, on it there’s a guy that’s restoring Freddie Dobbs’ T100 Bonneville, might give you some tips on common issues.

And their turn ‘in the barrel’

I’ve measured 3.1 litres of old oil & reckon on another 100mm of spillages & remains left in the container which equals 3.2 litres … Haynes manual says 2 litres then warm up then add another 300mm, so 900mm overfilled Could this be as easy as filling with the right quantity & spec of oil?

Thankyou @Tinkicker for your sage thoughts and advice. Next thing: I let the bike idle for a while then went to drain the oil, I removed the oil tank cap and saw that the oil level had risen considerably, is this a sign that I’ve overfilled it or something else? I’m gonna measure how much came out and compare it to the recommended oil fill amount.

Now this is a VERY good question and I can’t remember what the hell I put in & I took all the old oil & bottles to the tip. It should be 15/50 semi synth, I may have put 10/40 semi synth in by mistake. Gonna drain the oil anyway. Would you recommend a flush before refilling properly? If so what make?

I’m hoping this is the issue. There are 2 ‘check’ valves behind the oil filter that I will have a look at when I drain the oil

These are the figures from the Haynes manual ( warm engine )

Again another good point. I looked in the tank & couldn’t see the oil from the scavenge pipe going into the tank and the oil in the tank doesn’t drop when the engines running, but I removed the scavenge pipe from the tank, cranked the engine over and it spewed out oil, so unless it is blocked in the tank I don’t think this is the problem, although I will remove the tank and ensure it’s all clear.

Good point! However I found the BMW part number for the sensor & it’s equivalent OEM part number ( it’s used on a lot of vehicles, not just motorbikes ) and got a NOS part from a guy who was selling off his old stuff after closing his shop down. The part from BMW is £20 so not a big difference & a pretty std BMW mark up. I tested the one that came out & it seemed ok.

Silly question, you did put the front wheel on the right way round so the ABS sensor ring is next to the sensor? Not the other side

You could be very right, but I’m hoping not - as doing that all again fills me with dread

There’s no sign of an oil leak and the oils maintaining it’s level, also I think a split hose would show as low pressure even when cold?

I let it idle until the fan came on and by then the pressure was almost non existent, but the oil pumps can be ruled out as a likely issue right?

WTF? Is it a sofa

I have a new slightly baffling issue with this bike that some of you might be able to give some guidance on, or take the piss .. it’s fine by me. So the oil pressure light has started flickering when the engine is warm but goes out when I Increase the revs, after a while it stays on at idle. I went to the owners forums and the consensus was a failed oil pressure switch ( a common problem) I removed the switch (B’stard of a job), tested it, seemed fine but I fitted a new one for £5 for purposes of elimination … however the problem still exists and worried that the oil pumps might be knackered I purchased an oil pressure gauge kit which I fitted to the oil pressure switch boss, it would seem that the pumps are fine with a pressure of 45PSI at cold idle & 85PSI at 4500 revs. So the question is.. WTF? Another thing I’ve noticed is that although the oil isn’t contaminated it is very black and it was only changed a couple of hundred miles ago when I fitted a new water pump.