husoi

This reminds me last time I went to see the GP. He asked me how I was feeling. "I'm at the doctors, what you think?"

Hey, this guy is a genius

Did the nurse took into account the NAF? Nurse age factor, if she's under 30 your pressure will go through the roof

For that you have the Scottish Highlands

You really want to check all that on your service manual. regarding the W value, it all depends on how you prefer your suspension and what Honda specifies for your bike. Higher W means a stiffer suspension.

According to British standards, all road surfacing will require a minimum of 40 wear surface. For those less familiar with the build up of a road this is made of several layers. Firstly we will have the existing ground leveled and compacted.. A sub-base made of aggregate, this depending on ground condition, can be from 350mm upwards in order to support the traffic load (with 32 tonne lorries as max frequent load) Then a second layer of aggregate (optional) if ground condition requires extra load support. between 100 and 150 mm base layer of asphalt, usually with content of aggregate of larger stones. Then a coat of liquid asphalt (although has become a poor norm to "forget" to add this to surfacing opting for a richer base layer Finally, the wear course that will have a minimum of 40mm. This wear course will reduce it's thickness with time, depending on many factors. Unless the road was built non-complying and the surfacing wasn't done properly this should last a few years. When a pothole appears, this means the wear layer is now about 10 to 20mm. Because councils, or even highway authority take forever to repair them (although it shouldn't be repaired) the base and sub-base are usually also damaged. The reason why it is a useless thing to do, repairing a pothole will be done with different materials than the normal road build-up and binding is usually inexistent. Adding to this, the wear layer will be now half of the minimum so the repair is to the same level as surrounding pavement, therefore less than the 40mm. The only proper technical and economic solution would be the replacement of the section of road affected by the pothole(s) around 10m each side on the entire width of the road. The issue with this simplistic approach is the ramp created between the new surface (40mm) and the 20mm existing surface. Although this can be mitigated. Technically because it is the correct way of doing it for a longer lasting surface. Economically because if you consider a 10 years span, it will require fewer mobilization of equipment, even if heavier equipment is required for a complete surfacing.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C1E_VXsrpZc/?igsh=MTZlc3UzeXFueWd5Zg==

Make sure you won't be risking safety. I know helmets that are not CE certified can lead you to a penalty. It is faced as you not wearing one. Same with gloves and other gear. Not that police would know by just looking and I never heard anyone being stopped for a check. Insurance on the other hand may refuse liability in case if a crash as your gear won't be to proper standard. The best way to import any gear would be while touring you buy it and wear during the ride on the way back.

That's the main reason for wearing hear defenders in industrial spaces where loud noise may occur. Some people would consider that as not cool but it can save you from a long stay in hospital and on sick leave not counting to permanent hearing loss that can very well happen. I'm not a H&S maniac, however, in some instances they are actually correct.

I would say that's a domestic theory of big bang in practice

Sweden had (not sure nowadays) highway code at primary school and all the way to secondary. By the time kids were old enough to have a license they will be experts on all the rules and culture on the road. Advanced driving should be the norm and not the exception to the whole of UK. They are likely on of the safest drivers/riders in Europe. Then getting the license would be much easier.

Well done you

Removing the fairings from the Pan to give it a good wash then do the ACF50 Prepare the Shadow for MOT on Tue

Elderly please

Use 2 or 3 comparison websites. I got a renewal offer of £101 then got a £66 from a different provider. You need to make this a regular routine, search thoroughly and experiment with the different options before commit to a contract. A friend have an weird insurance where the policy is just to make it legal to be on the road but have no cover?!?!?! I didn't even know this existed. The high premium is usually due to new rider lack of experience, or a long interval between insurances. Location also impacts, where the bike is stored during the night, security devices, etc.

Is it me or this forum is getting a wee bit camp?

After placing a order I was offered this link to share the discount. Enjoy Autodoc discount

I'm not a Scot Just live here because of the lovely weather... and midges

In theory the engine should be stop using the ignition key. This because the stand switch isn't manufactured to withstand frequent abrupt cut of current at the ignition system. That switch, similar to the neutral and clutch switch are meant to be used as warning/prevention to start the bike if the bike is in gear or the stand is extended. When opening a live circuit there is a release of a small spark while the 2 contacts are close enough (microns) to allow the current to cross the air. This little spark will damage the contacts in time, it could be a very long time however, it will happen. On the other hand, the ignition switch (when properly manufactured) is designed to reduce the spark occurrence and is designed to endure a larger number of operations. This is all theoretical and it would take thousands of operations to make a difference.

If they sell 20,000 cars and each spare costs £100... It's all money in their pocket.

Or at least we wouldn't have social media to brag about it

Just found these guys. Prices are really good both for cars and bikes. You can download a phone app. They have loads of how to clips. Motorbike spare parts cheaply in the online motorcycle parts shop (autodoc.co.uk)